Smattering Portuguese Grape Varieties unworthy to Doom

Dirceu Vianna Junior, MW curated and conducted the Master class for the visitors, journalist, promoters, traders and producers across the world. Sharing a peep into the rarest variety’s wine making style and an experience of tasting choicest wines from the MW’s treasure.

Portugal is bestowed with a great natural beauty. Diversity in the terrain from beaches in its south to breath-taking mountains of the north, linked up by the dry continental climate of east with the milder ocean-influence at west. The assorted turf, roomy climate and far-ranging soil profile caters to the diverse grape varieties. More than 250 native grape varietals are found in the sphere of Portuguese Vinhos. The spectra of these famed, unique grape varieties and the archival wine making style, is distinctive in the world of wines. Mostly, Portuguese wine making style augments the virtue of the best varieties of berries to make an enriched wine as a blend. Portuguese wines also largely amount to mono or single varietal wine.

Codega do Larinho from DOC Douro covers 783 hA area, being moderate in yield, flaunts well at warm sites. Highly susceptible to mildew may have perhaps confined the variety from being a front-runner. Andreza Codega do Larinho 2018, DOC Douro is low in acidity appeals a blend with Arinto. Dry wine with alchohol 12%. White still wine counts for its delicate and attractive floral aromas, flavours of Fresh citrus and tropical fruits. The fully ripe grape wine is evocative to Muscat. To be dished up with roasted fish in the oven, cod-fish, shellfish, sushi and also soft sheep cheese.

Since 17th century Verdelho is a monarchic grape variety of Madeira, badly hit by phylloxera in the 19th century verdelho lost ground to most reliable Tinta Negra Mole. Verdelho hallmarks its presence on 410 hA area, throughout Portugal-Madeira, Azores, Alentejo, Tejo and Setubal. Suits to maritime climate hence wishes deeper soil with good humidity. Noted for being susceptible to odium, spring frost and a low yielding variety, makes it awkward to widespread in other nations. Australia and America makes good dry white wine. Since centuries has gained reputation to make oxidised white wine, with searing acidity, moderate to high alcohol level. Casal da CoelheiraPrivate collection Verdelho- 2018 Regional Tejo. A wine for special occasions, goes well with Smoked ham.

Fonte Cal originally from Pinhel in Beira, is a rich source of limestone. It’s been a legendary grape variety since 12th century. While Fonte Cal is about to get bumped off today, survives on 44 hec of vineyards in total. This variety rejoices for granite rich soil but the irregular bunch formation leads to low yields. Unfortunately, Fonte Cal can never be used as a single variety because of its high sugar levels. Also, the balanced acidity and naturally optimum nutrients in the variety endures value to the wine if blended with Arinto and Siria. Beyra Superior Fonte Cal 2018, DOC Beira interior. Excellent wine with discrete aromas of citrus and stone fruits, floral notes combined with minerality on the finish. Good acidity enhancing the ability to evolve. Can reveal better with shellfish, appetizers and snacks, Lean fish, Cured Meat.

Avesso is relatively a new variety and a native of Minho since 1896. Planted in lower ambit of Douro River. Avesso’s presence is felt over 687 hec of land which is strongly pulling producer’s and professional’s attention to it. The variety makes awesome sparkling wines but needs more care to be taken as it is highly prone to oxidation due to very low nitrogen levels. Portal das Hortas Avesso Grande Escolha2018, DOC Vinho Verde. Dry wine with medium acidity and alcohol.

The significant variety of Vinhoverde, Loureiro is characterised to have aromas of Laurel flower and leaves. It is widely planted over 5.800 hecs of area.This variety is vigorously productive but retorts to moderate fertile soils. Displays aromatic floral notes, crisp in acidity and moderation in alcohol. As single variety is not destined for ageing. Quinta de Gomariz Loureiro2018, Vinho Verde DOC is off dry with average acidity and optimum alcohol content. Very crisp flavour notes with touch of tropical fruits.

Azal is finely dispersed around totally over 1.4 hec. Extremely vigorous variety needs to be planted on low vigour rootstock. Quinta de Linhares Azal2018, DOC Vinho Verde is indeed fruity bites and light in bubbles. It’s a mono varietal rarity, fresh and light with a youthful effervescence. It has rich rustic citrus and green apple fragrant flavours, well-structured excellent fruit forward character, high acidity.

Bical originally from Bairrada or Dao survives precisely on 1.194 hec of plantation. The variety is known as Borrado das Moscas refers to black spots on skin of berries. Thrives well in calcareous soils provided it has good drainage. Acts well to barrel ageing, good for sparkling wines, blended with Arinto. Vinha Formal Bical 2017, DOC Bairrada is intense in flavour, lemony with lovely bright citrus fruit. Large chestnut wood used for ageing.

While Jampal was on the brink of extinction, Andre Manz a Brazilian soccer player bought a vineyard and turned back to its former glory. Today only 31.76 hecs plantation of Jampal exists on planet earth near Lisbon, Setubal and Douro. Highly challenging variety to grow as susceptible to botrytis, bunch rot, and powdery mildew. Biomanz, is a solo producer making single varietal wine. Dona Fatima Jampal Reserva 2017, Regional Lisboa. The wines are full bodied, medium in acidity and alchohol. Intensely perfumed but the floral notes fade and transform to nutty notes adding more texture to wine.

Sparsely planted in Douro and Alentejo is Tinta- Grossa red grape variety. This moderately yielding variety demands arid conditions with regular irrigation. Paulo Laureano Tinta Grossa 2015, DOC Alentejo is deep coloured wine with intense flavours of dark ripe fruits and sweet spices. Aging renders silky texture and transforms firm tannins to mature rounded ones. Higher alcohol levels add balance to high acidity.

Sousao made in vinho verde is also called as Vinhao. Impressively covers 3,772 ha of plantation. Deep colour, robust acidity and moderate alcohol in the wine leads to a perfect blend. Vale da Raposa Sousao 2015, DOC Douro is full bodied wine, rich in fruit flavours like blackberries, raspberries, cherries and kirsch.

Alicante Bouschet is a dynamic variety created by Henri Bouschet in 1855 in France. Resultant variety of crossing over between Grenache and Petit Bouschet arrived in Portugal in 10th century. Standing tall and firm since then. This variety is well adapted to Alentejo and adores hot conditions, we can see as it is widely spread over 4,437 hec. Grande Rocim Alicante Bouschet 2015, DOC Alentejo has enticing colour and can age forever. Its average price is 64 Euros.

Uncrowned variety of Colares Ramisco is the native of east Lisbon, Vineyards noted as non-grafted bush vine soaring on sandy soil. This low yielding variety is affected by fog and is highly infected by disease due to the sea in near vicinity yet towers against all adversities. Can’t really call it a bygone variety as it is planted over 3,75 hec of land. Santa Maria Ramisco 2009, DOC Colares has moderate alcohol levels, high acidity and firm tannins. With ageing this wine develops beautiful complex aromas, including cedar, leather, mushroom and wet earth. It has distinct unparalleled saline note possibly from the salty winds of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s amazing Longevity for ageing is appreciated at the cost of 35 Euros.

I believe the trail through these little-known vines and wines uplifted my spirits to appreciate the bettering of these descent wines. More importantly we need to first start thinking beyond the global varieties like chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon etc to shelter these varieties from fading away one day.

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