March 04: Grandi Langhe is ia programme initiated in 2017 by the Producers’ Association (Consorzio) of the area to promote wines of Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero and Alba) within Grandi Langhe, for which Gaurav Dixit, Restaurant Manager and Sommelier at Hotel Leela Mumbai was recommended by Subhash Arora to Michele Shah for the 3rd edition on January 28-29. Gaurav Dixit diarised the event and reports, also including his visits to other wineries this being his first visit out of India and to Italy
The Beginning
It all started on 2nd October 2018 while having coffee and scrolling down my Facebook page. I suddenly came across a Post by Cav. Subhash Arora in the Indian Wine Academy Facebook page that one sommelier under 35 was being invited to Italy for an international tasting event in Piedmont. It took me less than a minute to text him and show my keen interest in this trip.
This wasn’t that easy though. I was asked to send my application along with my Curriculum Vitae as the same was to be chosen from a number of applicants from all over India by Cav. Arora and then approved by the Consorzio of Grandi Langhe through Ms. Michel Shah. Within a couple of days I got the acceptance mail from Cav. Arora out of the list of all applicants in India. I was instructed to wait for the result from the organisers. It took more than a month but I was thankfully selected by the organisers of Grandi Langhe 2019.
Grandi Langhe
Grandi Langhe was started in 2017 and this was the third edition. Over the years this has got its name, fame and everything has been improvised. This is a platform where all the producers from Langhe area, (Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, and Roero) are invited to showcase their wines. It is unfortunate that we get only a few Barolo wines in the programme though; the number is not even in double digits. This year 206 producers participated with 1400 wines in all for tasting.
The Preparation
My airfare, stay, transfers and meals were all taken care of. The event was to be held on 28-29 January, 2019. This was my first time that I ever travelled out of India; hence I really wanted to make the best of this opportunity. I requested if I might have my return ticket after a week and I would be on my own as I wanted to visit some more wineries in Italy. This wasn’t difficult and my request was thankfully entertained.
Now I had to make my itinerary so that I didn’t waste any time when there. I spoke to every possible person who had travelled to Italy or Europe just to get the idea to plan better and I got a lot of advice, suggestions, do’s and don’ts which really helped me.
The Journey
The consortium sent me a ticket for a direct flight via Air Italia. They even assisted me with the small things like web-check in for my comfort which I felt was really personalised service. It was a 9 hour long flight from Mumbai to Milan. After I arrived in Milan I was received and taken to Alba. All the sommeliers were given individual rooms to stay in Hotel Calissano, Alba.
The Event
First evening was a get- together and to meet and know people from different parts of the world. We all met over dinner and tasted some of the great wines. It was a four-course dinner with loads of wine of your choice. Just go pick up the bottle and drink!!
The first day of the event was really exciting as I had so many good wines coming my way. Every producer was given a dedicated booth and all the booths were next to one another. All the information of the booths and their location was in a small guide book which was given upon arrival. This was in case you wished to have any favourites to start with. Since most of the wines I had never seen before, I started from one end. I joined a group of Somms from different countries so that I could have my own opinion and I could also listen to others. We all discussed and decided to drink only Barolos and Barbarescos and maybe a few Barberas rather than tasting all and understanding nothing.
I tasted wines from all 206 producers in 2 days when the event successfully finished. During the event I tasted some of the very well known wines i.e. Oddero, Fontanafredda, Pio Cesare, Marchesi di Barolo, Le Cecche, Cavalotto, Paolo Scavino, Brunatte, G. D. Vajra, Josette Saffirio, Renato Ratti, Punset, etc.
Winery Visits
This was the most adventurous time in the entire trip as I was on my own. I already had taken appointments from some of the key and my favourite producers. My first visit was with Domenico Clerico. I met the wine maker and the marketing head Francesco who told me the history of Barolo Brothers and this followed with the tasting.
Next on the list was Pio Cesare and there I met Pio Boffa, from the owner family. After Cesare I went to Azelia and met their third generation Lorenzo Scavino. I finished my day with Matteo Coreggia and tasted probably the best Roero wines there.
Next day was even more special when I had the good fortune to visit the Iconic Gaja. I knew Giovanni Gaja from the beginning of my career and that really gave me a feeling of meeting someone who I know of. First Gaja showed me the winery and then we tasted the great wines. I was lucky enough to taste Iconic Barbaresco 2016 from the barrel itself. This would be out in the market in 2020. I also tasted Sperss 2001 & 2015. They also make an amazing white wine called Gaja Rey-100% Chardonnay- this was divine. After the tasting Giovanni invited me for lunch to their family’s favourite restaurant called Trattoria Antica Torre where we ate traditional Piedmont food. After Gaja I went to Vietti and then I to Marchesi di Barolo. Valentina and Anna Abbona were both really warm and hospitable.
Next day I travelled to Verona and then went to Allegrini. Since it was Saturday and then Sunday, therefore couldn’t see much in Verona and decided to go to Florence. Florence is beautiful and there I couldn’t visit any winery but I saw the city. It’s small and can be seen easily in a day. I also met an ex Le Cirque chef Matteo there who didn’t let me stay in the hotel. Transportation within the bug city was majorly by fast speed Bullet trains and within the city was via taxi.
This entire event was very well organised and planned. I would like to mention that Ms. Michèle Shah was involved in most of the activities, she really is a star. Cav. Subhash Arora recommended my name and I got so lucky to get there. The amount of learning I have got and my experience would always be with me and I surely will share the learning in the country with all my colleagues & subordinates and hopefully promote some of the wines from the wineries I visited.
Gaurav Dixit
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