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 Chianti is Tuscany but Tuscany is NOT necessarily Chianti!
Most of wine lovers in India would know that. We know of the iconic Brunello from Montalcino. Most of us have heard of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Although ‘Super Tuscans’ was a term coined in the 70s for special wines (Sassicaia was the first known Super Tuscan) from the western part of Tuscany, the term is now used rather loosely. But there are other areas and appellations that make wines generally based on Sangiovese and have their own identity; some of them like to associate themselves while others are happier with their identity as Tuscan wines; some are happy to call their wines as Chianti wines.
These 8 regions include wines from Carmignano, as old as Chianti. In fact, the original charter for Chianti (called Bando) given by Grand Duke Cosimo III de 'Medici who authorized four specific areas for best Tuscan wines (Chianti, Pomino, Carmignano, e Val d'Arno di Sopra)areas to call their wines as Chianti regions in 1716, exactly 300 years ago. It included Carmignano which has its own Association and regulations to make wines. Vald'Arno di Sopra doc on the other hand, is the youngest appellation formed in 2011, an association of Chianti producers who believe their wines have better quality than Chianti docg, and  are better representative of their territory than denoted by Chianti DOCG appellation. They wanted to establish their separate identity to showcase quality Tuscan wines, as the zone was already recognized in the 1716 document.
Thanks to the initiative taken by the Tuscan Tourism department Toscana Promozione, which wants to increase the tourism and business throughout Tuscany and not only for the Chianti Classico, (Vino Nobile di) Montepulciano and (Brunello di) Montalcino wine areas known for high quality wines internationally, a joint promotion is being organised since last year in Florence to promote wines from this segment encompassing 8 appellations of Tuscany.
The Tuscany Taste annual programme got to an exciting start on February 13 with Appellations of Carmignano, Vald'Arno di Sopra doc, Colline Lucchesi, Cortona, Pitigliano e Sovana, Morellino di Scansano, Montecucco and Maremma- represented by their respected Consorzio (Producer Associations) in Hotel Michelangelo, an interesting location right across Stazione Leopolda where the traditional Chianti Classico Collection would be held for 2 days on February 15 and 16.
Carmignano
 Historically, Carmignano was declared through a BANDO (Decree) as one of the four areas to grow Tuscan vines – Pomino, Chianti, Carmignano and Val d’Arno Sopra in 1716 by the Grand Duke, a member of the then ruling Medici family. The term ‘Super Tuscans’ was coined about 50 years ago to denote the rise of international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese (but not necessarily). The wines of this historical region are so interesting that I made a special trip to Carmignano last year and was quite gratified and impressed. It was natural for me to taste the wines from this part of Tuscany first at this Tasting. For details for last year’s visit, please click: Tuscany Taste 2015: Carmignano- Father of Super Tuscan style wines
Carmignano produces 3 types of wines- BARCO Reale-young and fresh wines, Carmignano docg and Riserva at different price points. BARCO Reale is a simple wine that is very refreshing and has to be consumed young-excellent value for money for the Indian market. The Riserva range had a powerful presence of oak and full of concentration but needed time to be ready to drink. Cabernet Sauvignon is the second prominent grape here because over centuries it has been found to do well.
Montecucco DOCG
 Wines from this appellation, located south of Montalcino, were the most impressive discovery at the tasting. Although there are records of wine making going back thousands of years in this area, it received attention in the modern day in the 70s and received its independent doc appellation in 1998. In the last classification in 2011, wines made from 100% Sangiovese qualified to become the docg, appellation, similar to its neighbour Montalcino.
Like many other zones in Tuscany, many producers here also swear by the quality being comparable to Brunello di Montalcino. Though the Montalcino producers would scoff at it, some people at the tasting believed that the clone for Brunello was first ‘exported’ from Montecucco. In any case, the prices of less than half or even a third of Brunello make these wines attractive. Producing around a million bottles annually, the appellation is charging ahead with continuously improving recognition.
For a wine to earn docg or docg Riserva status, the wine must have a minimum 90% Sangiovese (Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino must have 100% whereas the Chianti Classico must have a minimum of 80% of Sangiovese). DOC can have a minimum of 60% Sangiovese grapes.
For more information, visit
Maremma Toscana DOC
 Like many other confusing appellations, Maremma Toscana is a Doc zone that also includes DOCG Morellino di Scansano docg and Montecucco docg. It was never expected to be an umbrella of several other appellations, but gradually many of the producers in this area of around 8,500 hA (21,000 acres) formed more prestigious appellations with docg tags decorating their wines. Like the other counterparts, labels are very attractive and contemporary for wines in this area that has been getting increasingly popular due to investments made by the Chianti Classico, Montalcino and other established producers who realised the potential of this area and have been regularly investing.
For further details contact www.consorziovinimaremma.it (the site is under construction).
Morellino di Scansano DOCG
Some of the Tuscan producers represented in India are already importing or trying to introduce wines from this appellation that was created as a DOC in 1992. With a current membership of 250 members, the zone was declared a DOCG in 2004 by a government decree. The wines are well-priced and use Sangiovese and international variety. This is closest to Rome (east and south of Grosseto) and with several agri-turismo facilities makes an excellent Tuscan wine zone to visit for travellers to Rome. For details, visit
The other appellations are relatively unknown, at least in India and might not find a successful entry in the treacherous and difficult Indian market.
Guided Tasting of 2006 and 2008 vintages
 One of the most impressive programmes at the tasting was a Guided Tasting of 2006 and 2008 vintages from the 8 appellations whose wines we tasted at different stands at Sala (room) Michelangelo. I managed to taste the 2008 vintage
Carmignano docg Sacti Blasii-Colline San Biagio
Colline Lucchesi-IGT Syrah- Tenuta Lenzini (100% Syrah)
Cortona DOC Syrah Clanis-Dal Cero (100% Syrah)
Maremma Toscana igt Rosso Roccad de Montemassi (Bordeaux blend)
Montecucco doc Sangiovese Lombrone-Collemassari (100% Sangiovese)
Morellino di Scansano docg Roccapesta
Toscana igt Campo, Arsiccio-Fattoria la Traiana (96% Sangiovese, 4% Abrusco del Vald’Arno
 <not represented- Pitigliano e Sovana doc for white wines>
Conducted by Luca Martini, Best Sommelier 2013 by Worldwide Sommelier Association, the wines were selected for the two vintages 2006 and 2008 to show the difference between the soils in these appellations and the two vintages. Luca said 2008 was a very good vintage with great balance and power and maturity. It was a cooler vintage at the end of ripening. It has charming maturity ahead, according to Luca.
The Tuscan soil has a lot of diversity with major differences between the different soils and characteristics. That’s what makes the Tuscany wine tasting as an infinite and enjoyable process – a wine lover can spend a long time visiting different areas and tasting diversity that is Tuscany- which is not necessarily Chianti.
Subhash Arora
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