India embraces Wine Culture slowly

An engineer by training and IT entrepreneur, Subhash Arora has been a great ambassador for wine for the past 18 years, especially in promoting wine culture in India. India is a country with little experience in terms of wines, but in recent years it has seen how the wine industry is becoming more dynamic at the national level. I have not been able to resist the curiosity of talking with Subhash Arora as a result of his participation as a speaker at Wine Future 2021 .

From the Indian Wine Academy you promote the culture of wine in India. How is the consumer in India?

Unfortunately, the whiskey and spirits consumer in India is still not that well educated about wines and this has been a significant factor in slowing the growth of wine culture in the country. Imported wines are too expensive to begin with, with gross taxes of around 300% on their import cost, making the net retail price around 7 times higher. Indian wines are cheaper but remain unaffordable for the vast majority as they can barely compete with imported entry-level wines, which are generally bulk wines.

PHOTO: Subhash Arora in a recent photo while visiting a Retail Store to write an article promoting wine sales / @ Subhash Arora

Women, especially the middle class and the young, have driven the growth of the wine culture in India. Do you organize special events and promotions for them?

Not specifically, but I have done many tastings where most of the people are beginners or inexperienced and there are a considerable number of women and young people in the audience. I founded Delhi Wine Club in 2002 and as its president until 2020, I hosted 300 events that had almost the same number of women and many young adults as members on their guest lists. I also promote wine culture through my weekly delWine electronic newsletter, which reaches 33,000 subscribers in 71 countries; To date, 871 newsletters have already been sent to them.

More and more people in India are drinking wine and that is a good sign.

The Canteen Stores Department (CSD), which runs more than 5,000 stores across the country, sells mostly products made in India, and the government canceled store licenses last December. In this context, is there any opportunity for the growth of international wine brands in the Indian market?

The Canteen Stores Department (CSD) canceled the storage and sale of imported wine and liquor last year, but this is only a small part of total sales. Of course, their sale has practically been reduced to zero since they can only liquidate their stocks, but the wines were a small part of the total alcoholic beverages and therefore the loss would be negligible.

The Delhi Government initially canceled the license of 44 department stores / supermarkets last year due to a violation of the rules, but eventually all licenses were canceled because it considered that there were serious violations in the conditions of sale. The government feels it was a tough decision and ultimately it is also the loser in this decision due to the loss of excise taxes and VAT revenues. Licenses are expected to be renewed from next season starting in April 2021.

What should international wineries take into account if they want to sell their wines in the country?

India is a very difficult market at the moment, particularly for imported wines, due to vacillating and uncertain government policies and high taxes. However, there is a good long-term potentia, as nearly half of our population is under 35 and today's large under-21 population is a lucrative potential market . More and more people are drinking wine and that is a good sign.

International wineries must be on the market regularly, give a good price right now, and look at the long-term prospects. And obviously they need financial capacity, because ideally they would have passion and long-term commitment to the Indian market, partnering with importers instead of just seeing it as one more market in their export mix.

PHOTO: Dindori Reserve Viognier 2019 / Instagram image of Sula Vineyards

Pairings are important when it comes to presenting wines and drinking occasions, how do you propose pairings with traditional Indian cuisine, which is not always easy to pair with the spices?

I think this is not a major problem right now. Most people do not even drink wine with food, but only as an aperitif or at banquets and parties. Also, Indians like slightly dry wines that pair well with at least most white wines. Those who have a preference for red wines tend to drink more fruity and younger wines. Extremely spicy chili foods cannot be paired with wines, unless they are dessert wines.

The Indian wine industry has been growing for the past 30 years, what can we expect in the next few years in terms of quality of Indian wines?

Overall, the quality of the wine was mediocre until about 10 years ago. But many wine enthusiasts have entered production with the idea of betting on quality. Many of our high-end wines are already of high quality and meet international standards.

How is climate change affecting viticulture in India?
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We have already been affected by out-of-season rains and hail storms. The rise in temperature has not been as devastating as the water shortage, which can be a limitation for the vines. The alcohol level has gradually increased. But growers are experimenting with different varieties, and the grape mix is likely to change in the coming years. We do not have a naming system so that anyone can grow any variety depending on the soil, the climate and the market, and if the product is good, there is a limited market, although it is today.

Any wine from India that we should try?

Each of the renowned growers like Sula Vineyards , Grover , Fratelli, York, Chandon , KRSMA, Vallonne , Charossa and SDU etc. are making wines of international quality. There are at least 2-5 labels from each producer that are worth trying, despite the higher international cost.

I would specifically recommend Rasa Cabernet, Sula Sauvignon Blanc and Dindori Reserve, The Source Grenache Rose from Sula; Chene, Vijay Amritraj Reserve and La Reserve Red and White from Grover; Z'noon, Sette, Sangiovese White and M/S from Fratelli; Arros from York, Anokhee Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz from Vallonne, Tempranillo Reserve and Sauvignon Blanc from Charosa, Shiraz Reserve from SDU and Rose Brut sparkling wine from Chandon, as some of the wines that would give it the special character of Indian wines.

The recently launched KRSMA Estates Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz wines deserve a special mention , both for their excellent quality.

Gloria Vallès

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