Jan 17: New wines made from old grape varieties are emerging during the Renaissance in Sicily, and in particular Etna, by a new crop of enterprising investors who are ready to harness the profound truths and wisdom from the ‘old’ generation, writes our South African guest writer Yegas Naidoo who visited several established and nascent producers in Etna last month as a member of the press trip arranged by Vinitaly International Academy and Taormina Gourmet
The wine scene in Sicily is in dynamic flux mode in the specially carved out areas of Mount Etna, where nature is a key protagonist and Europe’s largest active volcano resides. This unique stage boasts a plethora of visionary investors who are ready to leap beyond many previous misconceptions by identifying and re-engineering the rich historical viticultural practices exploring, harnessing and highlighting the cultural richness of this multi-faceted wine producing area of Italy, closer to Africa than Italy in certain instances.
Today, there are many new wine Ambassadors reminding themselves of past glories realised with native grapes that have not always enjoyed pedestal position in the Italian wine scene, for various reasons. The atmosphere is vibrant with change but more importantly we are seeing an injection of personality traits in both the vineyards and cellar that are creating growth and innovative changes gaining traction with the thirsty millennial brigade looking for new poetry in wine.
Growing vines on an active volcano is not for the foolhardy but best left to the bravado of the purposeful and visionary. The wine growing culture on Etna’s slopes has been growing for the last quarter century and is certainly passing from ancient obscurity to modern limelight.
It is ironical that in the current ongoing wine Renaissance in Sicily, and in particular Etna, what we have emerging are “ ‘new’ wines made from ‘old’ grape varieties ” [credit Ian D’Agata Native Wine Grapes of Italy ] by a ‘new’ generation of enterprising investors who are ready to harness the profound truths and wisdom from the ‘old’ generation.
New Vineyard Story book in the making
In Etna there is a new vineyard story book in the making with steadfast producers and rising stars not afraid to pump in significant monetary investment raising the bar with structured elegant, mineral driven wines; still, sparkling and rose from red native grapes Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio plus vibrant whites from Carricante & Catarratto. Etna is the spiritual home for these grapes.
Etna’s winegrowing stagnated between WWII and 1981 due to the high cost of growing grapes in such extreme terrain and climate coupled with eruptions in 1981/1991-2 since this volcano is an active cauldron. However, Mother Nature has bestowed almost magical poetry which has attracted investors like Palmento Costanzo on which this feature focuses.
REALISING THE CHALLENGES, WEALTH AND DIVERSITY OF ETNA
Besides being a dramatic regenerative force of nature the untamed and exuberant character of Etna – a UNESCO World Heritage site, presents with a volcanic melting pot rich in minerals. The different origins of the soil substrates borne out of capricious lava flows during eruptions and also, importantly, the compositions created during the cooling period retrospectively: ash, sand, gravel, powder and rock, all contribute to creating myriad terroirs bestowing uniquely different characteristics to each wine.
Cool Climate region
Etna’s commanding height, 3300 meters a.s.l. - has created another dynamic environment for “cool-climate” wines. It shows dramatic seasonal variances in temperature, covered in snow during the winter and in summer mid-level temperatures are still cool with the Northern Etna side being at least 15⁰ C lower than Coastal areas thus accenting dazzling wines bestowed with elegant vibrant profiles. Wide diurnal swings (difference between day and night temperatures) combined with the light on Etna which is diffused, indirectly bouncing between the sky and two surrounding seas, add a further magical touch. Effectively, Etna is Sicily’s only cool climate region.
Diverse Investors
The wine Appellation for Mount Etna- Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) was established in August 1968, one of the first in Sicily. The Etna DOC is approximately 2,350 acres (950 hectares) in size and home to under 300 wine producers.
Sicily is no longer branded as a bulk wine producer of mediocre blending wine but now recognized as standout producer largely due to a successful ongoing inward investment renaissance attracting a new “producer gold rush “. This includes investment from both Italian winemakers from other areas – like Tuscany and the North [Andrea Franchetti] and overseas [Frank Cornelissen from Belgium] and significantly the return of Etna’s younger generation to established family vineyards [Benanti and Barone de Villagrande], honing into wines made with typicity rather than flamboyance.
In addition to its range of soil types and microclimates, another significant difference that the dreaded phylloxera did not invade the vineyards of Etna due to the sandy composition of thin volcanic soils, unlike the decimation suffered by majority of European vineyards in the late 19th Century. Scientific analysis has identified vines that are now 150 years old- a legacy that needs to be meticulously protected.
GLORIOUS PALMENTO COSTANZO
One particular winery stood out for me: Palmento Costanzo. It is one of the most visited Etna wineries for tastings. Founded by the husband and wife duo Dominico Costanzo and Valeria Agosta from Catania in 2011 their unique Cellar, terraced vineyards and other facilities have been created and nurtured with expressions of rare excellence and an informed sense of innovation. In less than a decade they have interpreted the extraordinary context of the complex volcano with inherent pride and strategic vision.
Palmento Costanzo is an Etna Winery inside the Natural Park of Mount Etna on the northern slopes, located in Contrada Santo Spirito, in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia, 37 ° 52 ’00 “N – 15 ° 01′ 41” E (the geographical coordinates of the estate that you will find on some of their labels). Aesthetically, not the most elegant looking buildings, but a treasure trove of diverse elements on site will seduce and impress you. Our visit commenced on a lively note with an introduction by the passionate Valeria empowered with deeply held agrarian convictions and a walking encyclopaedia of vines and wines, not forgetting the stylish touches she has bestowed on the new cellars referencing tradition and design at every level.
Palmento Costanzo is a meticulously planned and carefully executed project. The Palmento name loosely relates to the 19th Century olive millstone press facility - old stone press house restored and taking pride of place in the gravity fed plant. The sleek modern cellar and maturation facility attached are designed in a format honouring bio-architectural principles that cleverly optimize thermal and lighting optics thus minimizing environmental energy impacts.
Other modern design techniques are at play in the magnificent cathedral height new build glass floored cellar including multi substrate lava walled, natural light streaming cone enhanced cut-outs. However, one of the most impressive features is a row of atypical, but sexy, Ovum egg shaped French oak fermentation and storage vessels based on the golden ratio principle of 2000 litres capacity, hoop-free and sitting on their own wooden bases. Despite the exceptionally high price of around €30 000 they have the design advantage of allowing for natural internal convection of lees without the need for physical batonnage.
Passion for this land directs every part of the company philosophy as is the output of natural wines produced from and area of 14 hectares – sub-sectioned into 4 smaller plots - up to 800 meters in elevation in the Santo Spirito Cru. Vines are planted within stone walled terraces on volcanic rock soils. There are vineyards of all ages, from 5 to 120 years old; some even pre-phylloxera. The vineyards are planted employing the Gobelet trained pruning system supported by Chestnut stakes and farmed organically adhering to strict environmental practices. The 2017’s are certified organic; vineyards are hand cultivated and the cellar technology ultra-modern.
Every detail at Palmento Costanzo is perfectly orchestrated with the property being a great backdrop to the excellent wines. The labels come from native grapes Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, Carricante and Catarratto. The designated Contrada* [highest Cru] for the area is Santo Spirito and the wines fall under the DOC Etna denomination under categories Contrada Santo Spirito. The Di Sei line made from alberelli vines aged between 80 and 120 years followed by a younger expression of vines of 5 to 30 years - labelled Mofete. The hospitality centre and restaurant are far from ordinary boasting a fine dining table with host Chefs from the illustrious Relais and Chateaux Locanda Don Serafino restaurant located further South in Ragusa Ibla.
Immersed in the true spirit of Etna this was an outstanding visit that will remain etched in my mind as an ultimate experience in a destination. These properties on Etna are a bit like Bitcoin, finding their own narrative as digital Gold but in this instance liquid Gold.
Yegas Naidoo
South Africa born and UK educated Yegas Naidoo did MBA in Marketing with dissertation in The British Wine Profile. She is DipWSET and an ordained member of L’Ordre des Coteaux Champagne. She is a Judge on the ‘SAA on Board’ Wine Selection Panel and IWC and IWSC in the U.K. and for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants since 2015. She travels widely to various wine areas across Continents to gain knowledge and attends master classes. Editor