IWA 2019: Think Amarone, Drink Ripasso in India

Amarone is one of the most famous and desired wines of Italy. Its popularity led producers like Zenato and Amarone develop wines that were excellent but prices quite high (generally over Rs. 10,000 in Retail in India)-Zenato costs Rs. 10,900 while Tedeschi retails for Rs. 10,100. Baby Amarone (Ripasso Valpolicella) on the other hand costs only Rs. 5,500 and Rs. 4,500 respectively- wines imported by VBev and Prestige Wines resp.

These producers are so passionate about high quality standards that when the global popularity of Amarone resulted in lower quality and prices, 12 of them decided in 2009 to disassociate from the Consortium. This group known as Amarone Families consisted of Allegrini, Begali, Brigaldara, Masi, Musella, Nicolis, Speri, Tedeschi, Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Speri, Tommasi, and Zenato which together represent 55% of the value of high-level Amarone and over 40% of the total market.

They banded together to form Amarone Families, an association of exclusively family-owned companies to promote exports and champion minimum quality standards and prices for all Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. They argued, for example, that low-cost Amarone, often found discounted at supermarkets for €10-12, should never cost less than €25 due to the cost of its production.

Valpolicella

The town of Valpolicella making Classico, Ripasso, Recioto and Amarone is nearly 25 minutes drive northwest of Verona with rolling hills and several valleys (the non Classico region actually stretches to the northeast). It makes a range of wines from predominantly three indigenous varieties-Corvina or Corvinone, Rondinella and a small percentage of Molinara. The style of wines vary from very quaffable, simple and fruity low alcohol Valpolicella doc or Valpolicella Classico doc (made within the designated geographical locations) on the low end to the sweet Recioto on the other extreme, with the Ripasso and Amarone being in the middle of the spectrum.

Why Ripasso

Alcohol- My first reason for giving Ripasso preference in India over the ‘King of Veneto’ Amarone is the alcohol level of over 15.5%. Nobody raises an eyebrow if it pierces the 16.5% mark, when well integrated. There are producers like Zenato and Zeni who offer very good quality, but at 16.5% abv, a small minority even flirting with the 17% mark! Remember, alcohol is alcohol and harmful-at 16.5% abv you drink almost 30% more for the similar liquid at 12.5%!

Food-Amarone is considered a meditation wine- one may enjoy sipping it over conversation with friends after dinner with seasoned cheese for hours. Yet it might not charm the Indian palate at that level of alcohol (whisky and wine drinkers may disagree). Besides, the tannins, though not as pronounced as in Cabernets or Shiraz, make this wine enjoyable with serious food, mostly steaks and game which are not the staple Mains for most Indians.

Cost-Then there is the cost factor. With duties and taxes as high as 250-300% of the CIF Value (as  they work out in Delhi) and with hotels charging as high as 200-400% profit margins on the duty free/ duty paid prices, it is not feasible for most people to afford Amarone in a restaurant or even Retail at over 10,000 on a frequent basis.

Heavy -In any case, Amarone is not the ideal daily drink or even perhaps the weekly drink as most Amarone producers would admit in private because it is too ‘heavy’ a wine. There are a few exceptions of Amarone with lower alcohol levels but those are generally lean and not as rich and complex as the good quality promises to be.

Why Ripasso  

With the cost and quality- including the alcohol level, texture and body, falling somewhere between Valpolicella and Amarone, Ripasso della Valpolicella makes a delicious alternative and an affordable option for the Indian market. It used to cost a Euro or two more than  Valpolicella doc but prices have been steadily going up because of its growing popularity and many Amarone lovers dumbing down.

The richness and roundness of flavours when developed by an expert winemaker, Ripasso makes it the best value for money premium wine which can handle a wide array of foods like serious meat dishes on one hand and  several vegetarian counterparts on the other. The price is only around 40-45% of Amarone. In India it is on the higher end at around 45%.

Producing Ripasso from Valpolicella

The process of making Ripasso evolved around 40 years ago when the producers discovered the Ripasso technique of ‘passing over’ the fermented Valpolicella over the warm, pressed skins of Amarone grapes that have just undergone fermentation. The liquid undergoes a secondary fermentation for a week or so because of the contact with residual sugar and the yeasts. This results in an increased level of alcohol by 0.5-1.0 % to around 13.5-14%. The body gets a fuller, rounder and the flavours get richer and more complex.

The extent of reaching the approximation in flavour and texture to Amarone depends upon the ratio of Valpolicella to the fermented skins, which could be as high as 40% in the second fermentation. Time allowed for fermentation is also a factor in determining the style. The final product tastes like a young Amarone- a Baby Amarone, if you will.

Costing less to produce, Ripasso does not need to mature for as long as Amarone. An Amarone may take 5-10 years or more to make it a pleasurable drink (I recently drank a Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella 2015 that was still young) but a Ripasso is already drinking very well in 2 years; ideally it should be consumed within 3-5 years of bottling.

I love you Baby

Popularly known as ‘Baby Amarone’ in the US, the wine is more versatile in food pairing- I have even tried it with some fish dishes and the combination is not off-putting. Pizzas and pastas of course take you to higher level of food and wine experience with Ripasso. It can even pair well with chicken, if cooked in a certain style, with red wine or tomatoes.  Lamb and mutton dishes like Sikandri Raan and kababs would be perfect matches- the lower alcohol level makes it more amenable with food anyway. A well made Ripasso like Zenato and Tedeschi are truly meditation wines. 

Here is a true story that would interest Amarone snobs who drink it only being ‘one of the top Italian brands’. Novices (and of course wine aficionados) and experts alike like the brand value. Stefano Accordini is a well-known producer who makes excellent Amarone and Ripasso. During a Press visit to Valpolicella several years ago, the last stop of the day was Stephano Accordini, a reputed producer. Before ending the tasting, we tasted Amarone from the barrels, including an Amarone 2009 which had makings of a good Amarone. What impressed us more was the sample of 2008 he tapped out of a small stainless steel tank. It was truly the making of a great Amarone, every journalist concurred.  A few minutes later, our tour guide got a call from winemaker Tiziano Accordini, profusely apologizing. There had been a mix up,  he said. The Amarone 2008 we had supposedly tasted from the barrel wasn’t an Amarone…it was a Ripasso della Valpolicella 2008!

Need I say more!!

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