Tasting Friuli Wines with Roberto of Marco Felluga

I had been very excited to meet Roberto Felluga, one of the iconic producers in Gorizia, in northernmost region of Italy, Friuli-Venezia- Giulia at the Master Class for Italics Wine Club, where I was to present the wines. It was really gratifying when he told me as I met him, that he had heard about me so much and was looking forward to meeting me. He had just arrived in Delhi in the morning for his third visit to India and carried a few bottles of Russiz Superiore Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon Blanc for tasting by the members.

The Felluga family has been in the wine producing business for around 100 years- he is the 5th generation producer. The 6th generation is getting ready with his daughter Ilaria Felluga who is studying oenology and viticulture at the University.  It used to be Felluga family winery till the two brothers Livio and Marco split up in 1956. Roberto’s father also purchased the smaller, historical winery (700 year old) Russiz Superiore. There are 3 other small wineries also within the family-they are now owned by his sisters, he tells me.

Marco Felluga makes around 600,000 bottles (50,000 cases of 9 liters) whereas Russiz Superiore makes only 200,000. Both Livio and Marco Felluga are similar in size. Most of the wines Marco Felluga makes are DOC Collio, though he also makes a small quantity of IGT wines. ‘We hope we shall be able to get the docg status for our wines in the near future,’ he says.

Their wines are sold 55% in Italy-balance are exported to 50 countries with the US, Germany and Russia being the biggest markets. He does not export to India but will certainly like to and will be meeting some importers during his 1-week trip here. Selling to HoReCa segment, his wines could be a boon to the hotels which have duty-free licenses. The wines are generally superior to the equivalent varietal one finds from other parts of Italy.

Roberto’s family comes from Istria- which was earlier a part of Austrian Habsburg Empire- has been changing countries in the last 100 years and once a part of Italy, Yugoslavia and is now a part of Slovenia. The winery is located near Gorizia- a beautiful spot on the hilly area. ‘Our wines have good balance with lovely food. We are 20 minutes away from the Adriatic Ocean and you could be in the skiing area in 30 minutes. Venice Airport is barely an hour away,’ he says.

You can drink 5 years old DOC Collio white wine which is different than many otehrs-with more body and ageworthi-ness of more than 5-10 years. Other varietals are Sauvignon Blanc, Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  Pinot Grigio is main crop in doc Collio. ‘it is different with us. We have a Riserva which can be good for even 10 years,’ he says.

All the red wines are barrel fermented with oak from Slovenia, France and Germany. He uses 225 barriques to 30 hL barrels, no bigger. ‘In the last 20-30 years we decided on this size. All single vineyard wines in Russiz undergo some barrel fermentation and up to 1 year sur- lee.’

Roberto Felluga had a small video presentation for the audience, after which the wines were poured. Both Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon Blanc were very concentrated, slightly darker colour, very perfumed and fruity with tropical fruits-they had great balance and lovely structure. Really a pleasure to taste them, even though they were not yet properly chilled and were slightly bruised due to travel!

Cesare Saccani, President and Claudio Maffioletti, General Secretary of Indo- Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry are the force behind the Italics Wine Club. Around 40+ people who had indicated their interest in joining the Club enjoyed the evening. The support given by MKM Luxe Swiss, the ultra chic furniture store, the venue for the evening was noteworthy.

Subhash Arora

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