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Posted: Thursday, 18 January 2018 16:18

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Chianti docg Rules undergo Bottling Change

Jan 18: After a long bureaucratic process the Vino Chianti DOCG can now be bottled only in Tuscany, without prejudice to any exceptions and rights acquired over time by bottling companies, in order to ensure better traceability and more numerous and timely checks, thus safeguarding consumers writes Subhash Arora who feels that Chianti Classico is still a better overall bet although the quality of Chianti will certainly improve with the latest amendment

As from 1 January 2018, the amendment to article 5, para1 of the production regulations of Chianti docg wines became effective for all intents and purposes. The amendment states that the Vini Chianti DOCG can be bottled only in Tuscany, without prejudice to any exceptions and rights acquired over time by bottling companies, in order to ensure better traceability and more numerous and timely checks, thus safeguarding consumers."

"This entails a change in the marking off of the area where wine-making, ageing, bottling and maturing activities can be carried out”, says Giovanni Busi, Chairman of Consorzio Vino Chianti, the professional Association of the Chianti docg wine producers. Until January 1, 2018 it was possible to bottle Chianti wine anywhere in the world. Thanks to this amendment to the production regulations, Chianti wine can be bottled exclusively in almost the entire Tuscan territory.

This change will have no impact, as provided for by European Union regulations, on bottling companies located outside of Tuscany that have already acquired the bottling right. These are companies which have been bottling Chianti for at least two years during the last five years. This means that a majority of wineries which have been bottling Chianti in their territory (even if it is UK, Sicily or could have well been India!) will continue to bottle them as Chianti docg in that region. However, the legislation will block any new bottling company based outside the Tuscan region, ensuring better control over the entire production chain and quality of the bottled wine, the continued practice in most of the out-of-Tuscany areas getting the rights to manufacture Chianti in their territory notwithstanding.

The Consorzio Vini Chianti clarifies, ‘for now, after obtaining the approval in Italy, we are operating under a “Temporary labelling” system, pending the final approval by the EU of the folder containing the amendment in question. At the present time, it is not possible to foresee when such approval will be obtained. We hope that the amendment made to the regulations, which basically aims at safeguarding consumers, is approved at the EU level without any further delays.”

Busi adds, "This is a fundamental shift for the future of Chianti wines, that comes at a time when it is increasingly necessary to protect the consumers through a controlled and guaranteed production chain. This amendment has put a stop to a debate that has been dragging on for more than fifteen years now, and will finally allow us to protect our product in a more forceful and effective manner."

delWine is of the view that the clause of any 2 out of 5 years,  is inadequate and too liberal since a lot of wineries might have entered the market during this period with Chianti demand being on the rise.  The more expensive Chianti Classico, constrained by geographical borders and making better quality at lower quantity with more rigorous soil considerations offers a choice to the quality conscious consumer.

Chianti docg vs. Chianti Classico docg (Gallo Nero)

There has always been an idiomatic-geographic confusion between two different DOCGs- Chianti Classico and Chianti. While in the oenological sense, there are two separate terms, “Chianti Classico” and “Chianti,” there is only the term “Chianti” from the historical-geographical standpoint (as defined 300 years ago in 1716!)

‘For not only consumers, but also for wine insiders, the line between these two contexts is so unclear and thin that the adjective “Classico” is often omitted in describing a Chianti Classico wine in tastings, comments and articles,’ rues Carlotta Gori, the first- ever woman Director of the Consorzio Vini Chianti Classico , appointed as the Director in November, 2017.

‘In fact, that adjective is very important, because it distinguishes Chianti Classico from Chianti wine. They are two distinct and separate DOCGs, with two different sets of production regulations, production zones and consortiums for the protection of the product,’ she adds.

During my visit to Chianti Classico region in 2007, I had published an Article that explained the difference between the two wines and consortiums quite lucidly.

Genesis of Chianti Classico

‘Chianti as it is known today did not exist before 1716 when Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III established the boundaries of the Chianti wine production zone-between the cities of Florenceand Siena’, explains Silvia Fiorentini, the affable PR and Communications Manager of Consorzio Vini Chianti Classico, the producer-owned private Association.

Pomino (where Ruffina is located today), Carmignano and Vald’Arno Superiore were also specifically authorised to produce Chianti wines which kept on getting more and more famous. In the early 20th century, the classic production area was unable to keep up with the increasing domestic and international demand. It was then that the wine began to be produced outside the original Chianti zone but still under the name of Chianti or wine made for use in Chianti

A Consorzio (Association of Chianti producers) was established in 1924 to safeguard the quality and interest of this zone. In 1932 the suffix Classico was added to distinguish the original Chianti from that produced outside the defined production zone. It was assigned the DOC status in 1967 and DOCG (Denominazione d’Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest appellation for Italian wines in 1984. In 1996, it became an independent DOCG. In 2010 the two appellations, ‘Chianti’ and ‘Chianti Classico’, were classified separately. Today ‘Chianti’ wines can no longer be produced in the Chianti Classico production zone.

In 2013, the Consortium of Chianti Classico approved a series of modifications to the production specifications which started a real re-organisation of the whole zone. Because of the limited area of production and more stringent regulations, the quality of Chianti Classico is intrinsically better in general and the production costs and hence the sales price are also higher, making it a regular challenge for the producers to educate people on the difference between the two wines and the quality.

 Here are a few of the earlier Articles that should clarify the difference between Chianti docg and Chianti Classico docg:

Chianti DOCG Wines for Roadshow in the US

Tuscany Taste: Celebrating 300 years of Chianti Classico Wines

Feature: Confusion between Chianti Classico and Chianti at Caraway

Chianti Classico: Black Rooster still going strong after 300 Years

Chianti Classico applies for UNESCO Heritage Site with PM Support

Tuscany Taste 2014: Chianti Classico Gran Selezione launched in Grand Style

Chianti Classico Collection ’13: Wake Up Call from the Black Rooster

Subhash Arora

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