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‘Wine of the Month’ at the Caraway Restaurant is displayed prominently at the bar-’Dante Chianti Classico’ with Grapes as Sangiovese. Giving the description as ‘it is a dark ruby colour wine with flavour of cherries and spices’ and ‘usually priced at Rs. 2995++ the wine is at a promotional price of Rs.2395+’, it would be a Big Bang for your Buck…except that… the wine is a Chianti 2012 DOCG and not Chianti Classico as proclaimed!
Although both these wines are part of the Tuscan wine map- Chianti Classico used to be a sub-section of Chianti till a few years ago, they are different wines. Chianti wines may not be classified as Chianti Classico –produced in a designated area that extends from Florence to Siena with both having a separate Consortium of producers and set of laws.
Chianti is a district in Italy's Tuscany region. Chianti Classico is one of the seven sub-regions within Chianti. It is also the oldest and most respected area of Chianti. The other regions include Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, Montalbano and Rufina.
Historically, Chianti Classico has been the original wine region for three centuries since the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo de Medici III so decreed in 1716. However, the government expanded the territory in 1932 to include large areas of Tuscan land, which were not part of the original Chianti Classico region. In 1984 the Chianti Classico region was awarded a separate Chianti Classico DOCG. In 1996, a ministerial decree declared Chianti Classico a completely autonomous region with zone and production regulations distinct from Chianti wine.
It’s possible that some wineries in Chianti make very good quality top end wines- better than the low-end Chianti Classico bulk wines but the average quality is generally lower. Chianti Ruffina or Chianti from a few other producers from the Chianti sub-districts is generally considered decent wine at half the price but in general Classico are better but more expensive. Prices of Chianti are generally around 30-40% lower than Chianti Classico, though some premium Chianti wines may be more expensive than basic Chianti Classico. Most quality Chianti Classico producers claim it is impossible to think of bringing down the cost of a fine Chianti Classico to less than € 4.50 a bottle ex-cellar, whereas it is easy to find Chianti for less than half the price.
Here are a few of the other differences besides the terroir that make Chianti Classico a superior wine:
- Classico producers may use 80% -100% Sangiovese with 20% of other red grapes, whereas Chianti may deploy only 70% Sangiovese. White grapes like Malvasia and Tuscan Trebbiano (10%) are allowed. Classico producers are not allowed such use since 2006. Chianti Colli Senesi has to fall in place by 2015.
- Classico does not allow the use of the word ‘Superiore’ which is loosely defined in Chianti and is used more to create an impression of better quality.
- Chianti Classico has set tighter overall viticulture and winemaking standards than Chianti. Chianti is not allowed to be produced in the Chianti Classico region. Earlier, if the quality of wine was not up to the mark, the producer had the liberty to label it as Chianti and sell accordingly.
- For a wine to be labeled a Chianti Classico, a new vineyard may begin production at least four years after planting.
- The yields of Chianti Classico are tighter and limited to 7.5 tons/hA compared to Chianti which allows 9 tons/hA. Output per vine is also limited to 3 kilos, though most quality producers are increasing the density of vines with lower fruit weight per vine to minimise green harvest and achieve proper concentration.
- The solid extract in Chianti Classico must be a minimum of 23 gms/liter compared to as low as 19 gms from some parts of Chianti.
- To ensure a better balance in the wine, the release of a Chianti Classico is authorised only after October 1 of the year following the harvest. For the Riserva, minimum maturation of 24 months in wood, including at least three months in the bottle ageing is mandatory. Chianti can be ready for release in 3 months.
- Since March 2007 Chianti Classico is a protected territory like Champagne, Rioja, Napa Valley, Western Australia, Victoria, Porto and Jerez after joining the Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place & Origin, a global movement aimed at ensuring that the wine place names are protected and are not abused. It is a part of 15 regions which jointly fight for the protection of the place names and has these regions as its members. Chianti is of course, not included as a member.
Recognising Chianti Classico
The famous Black Rooster on the neck of each bottle has become the Chianti Classico emblem since 2005, irrespective of whether the producer is a member of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium or not. This symbol was modernized 2 years ago and is bolder, stronger and more assertive and sharper in appearance. In fact, that’s how I recognized from a distance that the bottle of Dante Alighieri could not have been a Chianti Classico as proclaimed by the Restaurant at Hotel Grand.
The Restaurant ought to change immediately the ‘Dante Alighieri Chianti Classico’ to ‘Dante Alighieri Chianti’ and the grapes from Sangiovese to Sangiovese+ + since it has up to 30% of lesser known Tuscan grape varieties like Canaiolo, Colorino and Ciliegiolo. Up to 15% of this could be Bordeaux grapes and up to 10% could be white grapes in this wine. It would help the restaurant if they mentioned that the wine is DOCG. This is the highest level possible to achieve in the Italian wine quality hierarchy but is no more a seal for the highest quality. One can buy Chianti DOCG for as low as €2 or under!
For the proponents and staunch supporters of Chianti or even producers of high quality Chianti who may not agree with me, it is pertinent to conclude with the example of a very big and respectable Tuscan producer I know. They have vineyards scattered all over Tuscany and a respected brand name within different parts of Chianti including Rufina. I once asked the President who I regard very much why they did not have any vineyards in Chianti Classico area. He shot back instantly and said,’ Show me the land in Chianti Classico area and I will buy immediately!’
I am a big fan of Tuscan wines but I love to add:
Avanti Chianti-and make mine a Classico please!
Subhash Arora
For a few related articles clarifying the difference, visit
Chianti with the Capital C
Cause of Celebration for Chianti Classico
Tags: Chianti Classico DOCG, Black Rooster, Chianti DOCG, Chianti, Tuscany, Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place & Origin, Chianti Classico Wine Consortium |