Franco Biondi Santi whose grandfather Ferruccio had 'invented' Brunello using pure Sangiovese grown in Montalcino and father Tancredi who had been involved in the framing of regulations for the newly formed Consortium in the early sixties was very pleased with 96% members supporting the resolution that did not favour any change. He was naturally one of the staunch supporters for the continued use of the traditional production methods. He worked actively to garner support of the Brunello producers, practically all of whom are members of Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino.
During the visit of a group of journalists and importers to Montalcino in June, organised by the Indian Wine Academy in conjunction with the Tuscany-based wine journalist, author and consultant Michele Shah, Biondi Santi, confident of no wrongdoing by the accused producers did express in strong terms about the typicity and longevity of Brunello because of the special clones of Brunello grape and the traditional way of processing.
The regulations were also voted unchanged for Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Moscadello di Montalcino DOC and Sant'Antimo DOC, the other three types of wine produced in the Tuscan region.
The issue is often debated by the producers due to divergent views. Two years ago also the members of the Consorzio had discussed and voted against changing the production process.
Though reportedly at least one producer called for a motion to allow a 3-5% 'tolerance' level of other grapes, it was rejected by a resounding 'no' to any changes in the regulations.
Angelo who is a premium producer of Brunello di Montalcino too and owns Pieve di Santa Restituta in Montalcino recommends a two-tier system which will allow other varieties of grapes being also used, still keeping the Brunello label. In an article published last month in Italian newspaper Libero and local Tuscan paper La Nazione, Gaja reportedly had said that if indeed Brunello producers had been adding other grapes, making the wines illegal according to the appellation laws, they should lobby hard to get the rules amended.
One producer who did not agree with his suggestion is Emilia Nardi, owner of Tenute Silvio Nardi, a premier producer of Brunello di Montalcino. "The idea of introducing new grape varieties into the production of Brunello as expressed by Angelo Gaja is contrary to my thinking. I believe Sangiovese has tremendous potential and can produce stunning wines of great character. It is of course quite different to the 'international' blends of wine, which have a more mellow profile and are more approachable, but also far more standardized,' she says. 'I know some producers were tempted to ask that Consorzio open doors to adding international varieties but I don't agree. With these wines we maintain our uniqueness.'
Emilia would like to see a few changes in the processing which apparently did not get approved. 'l would favour small amendments on the ageing of wine, particularly the length of time it spends in wood. I would also like to see the use of 'emergency' irrigation in very hot, arid vintages, just to maintain a high standard of quality. I would also like to see more research carried out to find out more about the several Sangiovese clones, to find the optimum ones which will produce Brunello of even higher quality.'
So how does it affect the consumer outside Italy? Says Michele Shah, an expert on Italian wines,' It is especially important for the outside world to rest assured that the Brunello producers are not split over this matter. This is also a confirmation that the status of Brunello and its quality is based on a conscious stand for quality and not just tradition, where Sangiovese could have been seen as being used in purity because that's how it has always been. If it were merely based on tradition, this would have been the moment to make a change and allow a small percentage of other grape varieties to be added. This did not happen and Montalcino producers stand firm on 100% Sangiovese.'
In the meanwhile Brunello remains the subject of an investigation into illegal mixing of other grapes.
Nino Calabrese, the Siena prosecutor leading the investigation might be on the hate list of some producers or consumers, especially in the US. But he had released a statement last week claiming that the situation was serious and needed a tough handling. He also confirmed that recent vintages, other than the 2003, impounded earlier by the US authorities, the vintages of '04, '05, 06 and '07 were also under investigation.
Since the investigation began in Montalcino in September 2007, 6.5m litres of suspect wine have been reportedly impounded, far more than originally estimated. Though 1.1m litres were declassified by the producers and sold as IGT and about a million litres were released after laboratory analysis did not detect the presence of other grapes, 4.4m litres of Brunello still remain impounded.
Besides impounding and analysing wine, the Calabrese also looked into the cellar and vineyard records including an aerial survey. He claims that the record proves that many of the wineries under investigation had broken the appellation laws.
Patrizio Cencioni, who had taken over as the new President in July after the Brunello controversy had broken out, is a relieved person. He said that members voting in unison on continuing with the same tradition have finally ended months of uncertainty, debate and a true division of viewpoints about the wines of Montalcino.
Brunello is popular in on-trade in India with the presence of premier wineries like Antinori, Gaja, Banfi, Col d'Orcia. Tenute Silvio Nardi, Friggiali and others are in the final stages of negotiating with importers. Rosso di Montalcino offers some of the best value-for-money quality wines. Opera Wines launched both the Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino a couple of weeks ago.
Indian consumers can rest assured that they are getting the same wine as always.
Subhash Arora |