|
 I met Count Francesco Marone Cinzano in India about 7 years ago when he came with a delegation of Montalcino producers in January 2008 as President of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. Mumbai was the first in the world to taste the latest release of 2003 as allowed by the law- Brunello may be released on January 1, 5 years following the harvest year. We were the immediate second-the wines had not been tasted even in the USA! After that visit I have been meeting him regularly, at least once a year-sometimes more either in Italy or India and sharing information on the coveted wine.
Mumbai World's First to Taste Brunello 2003
We had also organised an Al fresco dinner in November 2011 at Hotel Park where we served only red wines and that one was a hit-so was the Count a hit with the members. Therefore when I was told by Ace Beveragez, the importers of Col d’Orcia winery owned by him in Montalcino, that the Count would be stopping over only in Mumbai this time for a dinner with vertical tasting of 4 Brunello and would like me to be there, I did not hesitate for a second and changed my travel plans to be at the dinner.
A descendent of the well known Cinzano family from which he separated and bought Col d’ Orcia, one of the biggest Montalcino wineries, he has not been drinking Brunello all his life. ‘My childhood memories are stomping grapes-not Montalcino!’ he says modestly with feet firmly on the ground.
The count has not changed a bit over the years in appearance or demeanour- as sharply dressed and as passionate about Brunello and other wines of Col d’Orcia and his Chilean venture as when I met him that first time in Delhi. His passion for Brunello is understandable when he says, ‘Brunello di Montalcino is the only wine made from Sangiovese grape-actually known as the “little dark one”, a well aging variety. I believe that the combination of the Terroir and the volcanic soils make the grape unique.’ He is also a great fan of Indian food and believes the cherry flavours and good balance when properly aged wines accompany the food, is a great combination.
Count’s Chile Connection
In the 90’s Francesco branched out in Chile. ‘I had time on hand and my wife was also keen so we thought that Chile offered a great opportunity. There are a lot of new terroirs to be discovered. I am quite a believer in Chile. It is so easy to work there-unlike in the bureaucratic Italy there are hardly any rules and restrictions. One is free to offer the creativity.' He has already assembled a small group of quality wine producers and made an Association.
No Blends please, we are Brunello
 Francesco is a staunch opponent of allowing the addition of any other grape to suit certain markets. After the Brunello issue involving some shipments to the USA a controversy had arisen. The case was finally closed but it left some producers talking of allowing a miniscule proportion of international grapes like Merlot and Cabernet. He says, ‘Brunello is one wine that has a typical and unique character that shows even in blind tastings. Why should we want to change that uniqueness?’
He was a bit more accommodating towards the addition of categorised grapes in Rosso di Montalcino. Apparently for a while the late Franco Biondi Santi, the patriarch of the iconic winery Biondi Santi and a doyen of Montalcino, had consented to consider the change and Francesco was willing to go with the ‘liberalisation’. But later Franco refused to let the proposal go through. Francesco says ‘I am glad it was not allowed. Sangiovese is a shy grape. It performs beautifully when alone but tends to go backstage when other powerful international grapes are blended with it.’ Q.E.D. to that argument.
Incidentally, delWine and Indian Wine Academy are big fans of Rosso as a value-for-money good quality wine at prices most people can afford despite high taxes.
Tasting Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2009-2007
There was no Tasting of wines per se-the guests at the Chambers at the Taj Mahal Hotel were treated to Drappier Brut-the sharply ascending in popularity Champagne, also being imported by Ace Beveragez. The sit-down dinner with about 45 people was truly a magnificent gastronomical experience-it was a duet between the elegant wines and food matched very well. In fact, as we were in the middle of the courses, I could not resist calling the waiter and asking him who this super chef was- ahead of any I had come across in Delhi and possibly even overseas. It turned out to be the Grand Executive Chef Hemant Oberoi of the Taj! ( Menu attached- at the request of the exclusive group organising this event, the name has been blacked out)
Brunello di Montalcino 2009 –This was not the best of vintages for Montalcino due to freaky weather conditions but the wine has turned out well for immediate drinking and is tasting better and fuller than what I tasted at the annual ‘Benvenuto Brunello’ event in Montalcino every year. It has a lot of cherry fruit but is light on the palate and seems to lack the usual concentration. ‘It is a slender and balanced wine with high acidity and good structure. It will drink younger,’ says Cinzano.
 Brunello di Montalcino 2008- When I met the count earlier this year and complimented him for the finesse, elegance and structure in this beautiful wine, he laughed and wondered if he could ever produce such a great vintage again. ‘I remember on August 15 at 12 noon that year there was a sudden hail storm-40% of my crop was wiped out! Naturally the rest of the plants got all the energy and the wine came out with soft and rounded tannins,’ he says, adding that the 2010 has the potential to be a great wine too. We shall have to wait till January 2015 to taste it from the bottle, as per the rules.
Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006-Released in 2012, the 2007 has seen 4 years in the bottle now. One can taste beautiful fruits behind the tannins which are making the wine evolve. 2006 was definitely the best drinking wine of the evening though. ‘It is the best vintage of the decade for me. It has reached its peak in terms of maturing and will maintain it for years.’ Perhaps over 10-15, I would estimate. He also explained that matured and aged Brunellos are like a handsome young person when released but behave like mature persons as they age.
Bottled Poetry in true sense, these Italian beauties! We await the release of 2010 to see how far it would go beyond 2008 and 2006. Arrivederci, Il Conte- till next year. Good bye-a l’anno prossimo!
Related Articles:
Benvenuto Brunello 2014: Benvenuto Rosso!!Benvenuto Montalcino!!!
Menu at the Chambers
Subhash Arora |