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 Paul Grieco is the second most influential person in wine in New York City, according to a survey of industry elites (Eric Asimov, the well-known author, wine critic and Editor of the New York Times, heads this list). Grieco is a partner at Restaurant Hearth in the East Village and the Terroir wine bars in five locations in New York city, where he is known for independent wine lists that serve as drinks lists, manifesto, and education, complete with punchy, page-long essays. He often lists food-friendly wines from off-the-beaten path. He’s so convinced of the virtues of sherry that reportedly he gives away free glasses before 7 PM at the Terroir wine bars.
Six years ago in 2008, he banished all white wines from his wine-by- the- glass lists except Riesling during the months of summer. It was so well received that the concept has grown into a national and now even international phenomenon with restaurants offering at least a few Riesling selections by the glass. His good humor and strong views have made him a pied piper of sommeliers, according to Dr. Vino, a well-known and followed Blogger and he continues maintaining that reputation with Summer of Riesling.
Riesling at the Wine Park
One of the countries that have gone Riesling in the summer time is India, thanks to Vishal Kadakia of the Wine Park, Mumbai. He is always trying to introduce new concepts and titillate the palates of those who want to elevate them to different (I would like to say higher-but I am secular) levels and encourage experimentation.
The Wine Park has perhaps the best collection of Rieslings in India and sells high quality liquid from premium producers like Fritz Haag, St. Urbans-Hoff and Kesselstatt (Mosel), Donnhoff (Nahe) and Johann Donabaum (Wachau-Austria) - they all maintain 4 and 5 star status as producers. In fact Fritz Haag and Donnhoff enjoy the status as iconic producers.
Vishal wanted to be a part of the Revolution being spread by Paul Grieco whom he has met. He wanted to have Riesling-specific wine promotions in the summer (June 21- September 21) but says that due to the recent import problems at the customs and the FSSAI factors, the supplies have been on hold with a lot of uncertainty on the availability. He did not have enough stocks to support the 3-month program. But he wanted to do something to be a part of this Revolution and hence he decided to offer a special 15% discount on 7 wines from these producers- initially till Sept 21 (but hopefully he will extend to give the Riesling lovers a chance to fill up their cellars).
The wines may not be in the luxury segment but are not cheap either-thanks to the high customs duty and the basic higher price commensurate with the quality and the brand image of the producers and these wines. These wines normally retail for Rs.3200 to Rs.7000 so the discount of 15% can work up to a decent Rs.1043 on the Kesselstatt Grosses Gewächs (GG) (Great Growth) but more importantly gives you a nudge to try these high quality gems from Germany and Austria.
The following wines are being offered (listed in order of the normal price-15% discount is available on all of them on the prices indicated):
| 1. |
Kesselstatt RK Riesling 2012- Mosel, off-dry |
Rs. 3226 |
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| 2. |
St. Urban-Hof QbA Riesling 2012-Mosel, medium sweet |
Rs. 3397 |
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| 3. |
Johann Donabaum Bergterassen Federspiel medium dry |
Rs.3932 |
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| 4. |
Donnhoff Riesling Trocken (dry) 2012 Nahe |
Rs.4026 |
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| 5. |
St. Urban-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett 2010 Mosel Med Sweet |
Rs.4067 |
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| 6. |
Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2010 Mosel Sweet |
Rs. 4300 |
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| 6. |
Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Grosses Gewächs 2009 Mosel Dry |
Rs.6956 |
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German wines, followed by Austrian wines have a very complicated labeling system what with QbA, Kabinett, Trocken (dry) etc, that define the quality based on the ripeness of the grapes at the time of harvest. In Wachau, Austria where Donabaum is based, they follow a system based on the alcohol-‘Steinfeder’ for wines up to 11.5% alcohol, ‘Federspiel’ for wines between 11.5–12.5% and ‘Smaragd’ must have a minimum of 12.5% alcohol level. Thus we know that Donabaum has alcohol level of 11.5-12.5% without looking at the label.
Although the reputation of the producers and quality are impeccable, one needs to know the sweetness level of Rieslings as they can be very dry to very sweet which in fact is ideal with chilli hot Indian food-especially vegetarian fare. You should order simply based on your budget and the preference for the sweet taste-as indicated above. Vishal gives a visual with each wine description that tells you the level of sweetness to help the customer decide his choice before ordering. Kadakia is also fond of mentioning the ratings given by Wine Spectator or Wine Advocate (formerly Robert Parker) if they are close to 90 or above. You may rest assured, higher the rating higher the price, though. Drink one bottle or buy all seven but next time you have a picture taken, smile and say Ries-ling!!
And remember anytime is good for Riesling if you like white wines but nothing like a Summer of Riesling. For details call 98208 59548 or write to info@thewinekart.com
Subhash Arora
Voluntary Disclosure-We have no personal interest in the Promotion except that I have just returned from Germany and am naturally enthused, enchanted and enamoured by this German beauty- one of the Noble grape varieties-editor
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Tags: Paul Grieco, Summer of Riesling, Restaurant Hearth, Terroir, Riesling, Wine Park, Austria
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