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Spanish Visitors at the Tokaj stand |
Noble
wines include Fortified, Dessert and Special Sweet Wines, and this is
perhaps the only show in the world which focuses on these special wines.
It attracted 23 countries and about 100 wine producing regions to Jerez
from 25-28 May, with over 1200 labels to taste.
It was a unique setting for tasting the Sauternes and the botrytis wines of France,
be it a tasting at the tented stands of Arab Gardens, or a guided tasting of
the legendry Chateau d'Yquem at the historical old mosque of the splendid Arab
Alcazar, or a food and wine pairing with Chinese cuisine.
The ice wines produced in Germany and Canada were present including
the Constellation Brands-owned Inniskillin. There was also an interesting
ice wine from Croatia and even a non icewine from the leading Cava producer
Gramona, which showcased the wines made from grapes boxed in cold refrigerators,
tasting like one but selling for a third the price of the real
thing.
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A sherry to cherish-Osborne Palo Cortado-Rare Sherry Solera P*P |
Hungarian Tokaj was present with its usual seductive long-living Aszu
selves, from Oremus and Disznoko, among others. Muscatels from California,
Chile and the partner country Greece were there and so were the portly
Ports from Portugal. Late vintages from Lebanon, Switzerland, New Zealand
and Uruguay; Marsala from Italy; noble rots from Austria and South Africa;
sweet wines from the unknown Mexico, Jordan, the Czech Republic and even
Georgia participated to catch the attention of the buyers. There was
even a sweet Tanat from Uruguay and one from Holland which claimed to
be especially suitable for spicy Indian food.
Says John Salvi MW, who is a wine consultant from Bordeaux and a veteran
visitor of the show attending all shows but one, 'Vinoble is like a home
coming for me and I always look forward to coming here every two years.
It is fantastic the way the show has taken off. Earlier, the organisers
had trouble getting the sweet wine producers to exhibit. But now every
serious player in the world making sweet wines wants to participate in
the show.'
Sherries and Sweet wines of Spain
Practically all the regions producing noble wines from Spain
were present. As at all the previous exhibitions, the wineries of Jerez
were especially highlighted, both through the Regulating Council and
through the numerous wineries that attended at their individual stand.
The fortified wines of the Condado de Huelva, the Pedro Ximénez
from Montilla-Moriles and Muscatels from Malaga were a repeat from last
time. One could also taste fondillons from Alicante, muscatels from Navarre
and Valencia, Malmsey from the Canaries, sweet wines from Penedés,
Jumilla, Yecla, Ribera del Duero and Toro; late vintages from Rueda,
and La Mancha.
Vinoble is perhaps the only place in the world where one
can taste some of the best and unlimited variety of sherries even
over 30 years old (VORS). One could taste Finos, Amontillados, Olorosos,
Palo Cortados, Cream, Pale Cream, Pedro Ximénez, Moscateles and
Manzanillas which have given international recognition to the Sherry
wines of Jerez.
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John Salvi salivating for the best sherries of the world at the stand of Consejo Regulador |
A special feature was central tasting organised by Consejo Regulador,
a key highlight for the sherry lovers. Adds Salvi, 'it is a Mecca for
those who are truly passionate about Sherries; I am one of them. Every
single wonderful sherry is at the show and the producers bring out their
best at the show. The best part is that they all have something at the
top end which is of excellent quality. Most have a stock of old vintages
which is rare to see elsewhere.'
Lustau, Hidalgo, Pedro Romero, Williams & Humbert, Gil Luque, Gonzales
Byass, Osborne, Harvey's, Domecq, Tradición, Gutiérrez
are a few of the quality
sherry producers who were all there.
The beautiful palace is worth visiting for all its grandeur even when
the show is not on. Jerez is one of the old beautiful cities from the
Moorish period, with the old city providing a unique feel of the Arab
architecture, with the high fashion stores giving the modern touch. The
afternoon siesta is still a tradition that carries on due to the heat
at this time of the year, though the rain gods ensured the occasional use
of warm clothing during the first couple of days at the show this year.
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Sherry Butts (barrels) maturing under the Solera System |
Sherry and sweet wines have not been popular thus far in India. There
has been some forward thinking in the Indian diaspora in imbibing sweet
wines and sherry during the last couple of years, though. The DLF owned
Aman Resorts Hotel coming up near the Oberoi in Delhi will open in November.
It plans to sell 12 Sherries by the glass. Icewine, late harvest wines
and Tokaj are already being imported.
The next edition of Vinoble in May 2010 is bound to create a lot of
interest amongst the Indian importers. One hopes that the organisers
give a serious thought to my suggestion of organising tastings of the
extremely popular Indian cuisine with sweet wines-provided they can organise
the event better.
The Chinese cuisine and sweet wine tasting was over-crowed, disastrous
and very poorly organised- there has been no improvement over the previous
event's fiasco, one of the very few negatives of the Show which is well-focussed
unlike many mega wine shows on earth.
Subhash Arora |