 'We
started our winery in 1994 but have been pioneers in viticulture in Marlborough, says
Judy Ibbotson who used to work in the vineyards earlier but with grown
up children, can afford to do mostly office work and help her husband
Neal Ibbotson in export marketing.
'We started to give our grapes to Montana
winery way back in 1978.' That is around the time when Marlborough had
been taking off in the popularity charts around the world for its Sauvignon
Blanc.
Tasting the Sauvignon
We are tasting and savouring the wines from Saint Clair, at the
Mezzo Mezzo Restaurant of JW Marriott Hotel in Juhu, Mumbai. The basic
Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is very aromatic with exploding citrus and slightly
floral aromas urging you to go ahead with the sip without much ado.
The
flavour is full on the palate, the typical gooseberry, with a tropical
touch of white peaches. It is dry, light to medium body, very fruity
and crisp with a decent finish-the kind that might be expensive to serve
at a party because the guests would not want to quit drinking, no matter
what your wine budget for the party.
A price of Rs.4000 (US $95) at this
restaurant seems to be reasonable because of the infamous 200% excise
duty imposed on all foreign wines. However, I find it unbelievable to
learn from Vishal Kadakia, the importer that the recently opened Four
Seasons at Worli sells it for Rs.2800 a bottle despite paying the customs
duty of 160% as well!
Saint Clair or Sinclair
I
find a lot of similarity between the two names. 'Actually there is some
history behind this change,' explains Neal. 'In fact, the name
comes from the vineyards, which were first bought by the Sinclair family. Pioneer
James Sinclair built one of the first homes in this area and was closely
associated with the early development of the town. Over time the name
of the property was changed from Sinclair to Saint Clair,' adds Neal.
Premium Block Sauvignon
The next wine tasted was
Premium Block Sauvignon No.4. I find that intriguing as their website describes 11 nos. Here lies the genesis of success of their Sauvignons.
'The Premium Block wines come from
single vineyards from our own as well as contracted grapes,' explains
Neal. The grapes from different growers and our own vineyards are fermented
in 120 small tanks. Each wine so produced is ranked by an internal
panel for quality with a ranking of maximum of 10.
Market Differentiation with
the Premium Blocks
Does it not create confusion in
the minds of customers when most people can't tell the difference between
a Sauvignon and a Chardonnay? I ask. 'Well yes and no. Each number
has the same composition of grapes but has a distinct personality.
Typically, we would have a tasting of 6 numbers beyond which most people
say they cannot handle. They may start with say number 4. After a few
months, they come back and ask for different numbers. Some love a particular
style while the others give a particular number exclusively to a restaurant.'
'For instance, I believe, Marriott
here has taken Premium Block No. 4 and no one else in India will be
supplied that label. Later on, if Vishal wants to offer another number
to someone, that flavour becomes exclusive with that hotel. It creates
a bit of inventory control problem. But we don't mind giving that service
to our customers. That is how we are growing fast too, remember?'
Always the Terroir
 ' Till 2000, we were not making
much headway in quality and marketing. We participated in many wine
shows and competitions but things did not seem to be happening for
us. We decided to shift the areas of production. We went to more fertile
soils. Contrary to the commonly accepted practice, where we were earlier,
there was a lot of water stress and the quality was not there. The
shifting really helped improve our quality. We have been constantly
winning awards and have collected 150 medals between 2001 and now,'
says Neal with a twinkle in his eyes.
It appears through the Premium blocks
that stresses are not good for Sauvignon Blanc but are productive and
good for Pinot Noir.
' Actually, this method of fermenting
separately and assessing the quality individually has helped us improve
quality tremendously. Firstly we pay our growers bonuses based on the
ratings. Any 9/10 gets a bonus. Those getting low marks, say 6/10 are
encouraged to change the grape variety.'
The growers are all given 5 cases
of wine free along with the ratings so they can enjoy the taste along
with knowing the score. There is always a tendency to get better scores
which results in much improved quality. This is our little secret of
being successful in such a short time.
We've Come a Long Way
'We have come a long way from 4000
cases in the first year to the current 200,000 cases.' Here is a great
lesson for the Indian producers who are beginning small. If they can
get the best out of each parcel, the quality can be greatly improved.
Starting for 2 hectares (5 acres!),
they now own 150 h/As. Another 150 produce grapes from them.' There
is actually a wait list for growers who want to sell us their grapes,'
confides Neal,' because ' e pay them well and look after them.'
Neal is very proud of the coveted
trophy they received for 'Best New Zealand Wine Producer of the Year'
at the International Wine and Spirit Competition 2005. 'We are the
first New Zealand winery to win major international trophies for Sauvignon
Blanc and Pinot Noir in the same year,' he says with pride.
It is because of our improving quality
that we are exporting 70% of our production to 35 countries with UK
being our biggest customer, followed surprisingly by Ireland, USA,
Australia and Sweden. India is a very hopeful destination in the medium
and long term for Ibbotsons.
Matt Thomson WM
'We are lucky to have our winemaking
team led by the chief winemaker, Matt Thomson. He does more work in
the vineyards than any other winemaker does.' He also has had winemaking
experience on a regular basis in a number of areas in Italy and in
Bordeaux as they have different cycles. This is good for us too as
we have a long and healthy relationship and we benefit fro his experience.
Varietals
Although
70% of the production is Sauvignon Blanc, there has been addition of
many other vines too at Saint Clair. A wide range of varieties, including,
Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir and
Merlot are being produced in increasing quantity.
Besides the Pioneer Block, it produces
Reserve Range, Premium Range and Vicar's choice.
I did get to taste a Chardonnay
which was unique in its personality, very likeable and delicious with
the touch of oak, made it fruit forward.' The crisp acidity in the
wine gives us the length on the palate,' explained Neal.
The Pinot Noir 2007 was basic and
did not move me much. Normally to be released in 2009, perhaps it would
wake up from its slumber and do a few seductive tricks that great Pinot
Noirs are famous for- be it Burgundy, Oregon or even parts of Marlborough
in New Zealand,
Cellar Door
 'We
do not like to be disturbed in our winery so the tastings and picnics
are organised by the next door small restaurant, Cellar Door which
we have sub contracted. It also provides healthy and extensive menu
which keeps on changing regularly to provide the best in seasonal foods,'
says Neal.
Half Marathon
Judy's
eyes light up when I talk of the half marathon that they started organising
from last year and had organised on May 10, the previous Saturday in
Marlborough. "I
ran the whole race, of course partly walking according to the rules
of marathon. The 650 odd participated NZ$50 to get a bottle of Saint
Clair awaiting each participating and completing the 21km off-road
run or walk. The route takes you through the very essence of Marlborough:
unending vines, stunning scenery, autumn colours and diverse landscapes,'
says she. Like all the participants who did finish the race, she was
also awarded a Saint Claire bottle of wine.
The
course takes you through the rows of Marlborough's vineyards, for a unique
chance to get close and personal with Marlborough's famous Sauvignon
Blanc and Pinot Noir grapes. Many private land owners have allowed access
through their vineyards for the event. And one can run through properties
like Babich, Montana, Cloudy Bay, Giesen, and Nobilo.
Is there any chance of that happening
in Nashik in the near future? I wonder.
Subhash Arora |