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Photo By:: Subhash Arora
 Paul Pontallier was the heart of the wine of Château Margaux as Corinne Mentzelopoulos, proprietor, is the soul. He recognised and admired the potential of Château Margaux, its terroir and its wine, and since his arrival in 1983, unceasingly strived to improve the quality of each of the wines produced at the property. Paul was born into a wine growing family from Bordeaux and first studied at the Agronomic Institute of Paris before continuing with studies in viticulture and oenology at Montpellier, and then further studies in Oenology at Bordeaux University under the legendary Emile Peynaud to obtain his doctorate. He was inspired by Peynaud's philosophy on "grand vin" and wrote his thesis on barrel ageing of red wine and the influence of oak. This was ideal preparation for a large part of his work at Château Margaux.
Paul Pontallier did his military service in the French Peace Corps and was posted to Chile, where he also lectured on oenology. Upon his return he started job hunting. He heard through the grapevine that Château Margaux had a vacancy and applied. Emile Peynaud was the advisor to the Mentzelopoulos family and might well have been instrumental in Paul's appointment. Paul was a man of absolute loyalty. He was also a consultant in South Africa and New Zealand and elsewhere in his earlier days.
Paul Pontallier lost his heart to Château Margaux and remained faithful and enthusiastic throughout. He was persuaded that the quality could be vastly improved and set about successfully achieving this over the years. He became Corinne Mentzelopoulos' right hand and together they built the outstandingreputation of the property by attention to minute detail; in the vineyards, in the cellars and in the maturing of the wine. This was complemented by their choice of marketing strategy- never aggressive, rather low key, but with perfect timing, matching their personal presence in a market to the gentle penetration of that market. They always remained faithful to traditional markets, whilst, at the same time, conquering the Chinese dragon, slowly but surely and most successfully. Hence the presence of his son Thibault Pontallier in Hong Kong as the Asia Ambassador of Château Margaux!
Paul Pontallier became the Managing Director only seven years after his appointment. He was brilliantly academic, spoke impeccable English - almost of another era - always had a boyish twinkle in his eye and a kindness and humility that was touching and bowled one over upon first meeting him. Paul could be wonderfully amusing when describing a wine, and extraordinary extravagant when seducing his audience, whether elite wine collectors, sharp wine buyers or wine journalist during the En Primeurs tastings at the Château. His passionate, yet quiet, recounting of the entire vintage season, quality and expectations could be charming and sometimes incredibly exotic. He was always intimately persuaded of the excellence of the wines of Château Margaux and his whole posture purveyed his eagerness to convey this message.
Paul Pontallier and Corinne Mentzelopoulos enjoyed each other’s company and it was evident that they complimented each other in their task to make Château Margaux rise above the difficulties and demands of any given vintage or the current economic crisis. They both admired each other and loved every inch of the diverse soil of the property and its potential. Also, when receiving guests, like last year at the magnificent Vinexpo Press reception which coincided with the inauguration of the staggering new cellar complex designed by Sir Norman Foster in close collaboration with the Mentzelopoulos/Pontallier tandem; they harmonised their presentation seemingly intuitively. How wonderful that Paul was able to make a full vintage in both the new white and red wine making facilities and bring to fruition the superb 2015 in the new Margaux barrel cathedral!
Paul Pontallier was particularly enchanted by the white wine of Château Margaux and intimated that it would be a dream fulfilled if it could, one day, attain the status of a Grand Vin, as it rightly deserves to be due to the continued improvement in quality and intricacy. His passion was undeniably wine making, even if he became a much sought after speaker and the public face of Château Margaux. Never did Paul cede to pride or gossip and that is indeed precious in a glamour seeking Bordeaux. Paul never hesitated to admit that great wine was being made the world over, but he was also persuaded that the Cabernet Sauvignon of Château Margaux was grandiose! He quietly admitted once that, privately, for pleasure, he also enjoyed drinking fine Burgundy. Yet, typically practical Paul, also once stated that, on a Desert Island, he would only request pure water...
It is a great sadness that Paul will be absent during our tasting next week at Château Margaux with Corinne Mentzelopoulos for the Château Margaux 2015 vintage. However, Nature has blessed this last vintage of a great and humble wine maker, Paul Pontallier.
Our deepest and sincerest condolences to his beloved family and his adored Château Margaux!
Requiescat in Pace!
Petronella Salvi
Bordeaux |