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Photos By:: Adil Arora
 General Manager of the Leela Ambience Hotel in Gurgaon, Michel Koopman has been working passionately and taking steps to increase the sale of wines at his hotel since he took charge over 2 years ago. His motto is, there is no point in keeping high prices that reflect more profit margins on paper but unless you sell them, it is an exercise in futility.
One of the actions was to introduce the monthly wine dinners last year. After completion of one year, they are back for the connoisseurs and novices alike to enjoy the evenings in different venues within the hotel with different cuisines and wines from different regions and the Dinner with Super Tuscan wines was a kick off for the second year.
There were six wines for the evening with Bellavista Cuvee Franciacorta Brut (90% Chardonnay & 10% Pinot Bianco &Pinot Nero) poured generously as an aperitif wine. This ‘Champagne of Italy’ produces bubblies that are on the same plane as Champagne and Bella Vista is as good as any in terms of quality but with its own terroir. It was medium bodied wine with lots of tiny bubbles and floral and peachy flavour. ( 91/100)
The wines following were Marchesi de Frescobaldi Albizzia Chardonnay di Toscana IGT- a crisp and fruity, slightly mineral, with citrus and apple flavour. It had a disadvantage of being served right after the delicious and easy drinking Franciacorta and did not leave the palate impressed or satisfied. (84/100)
La Brancaia Tre 2012, as the label suggests- a blend of 3 grapes (Sangiovese 80% & balance 20% Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon, making it a Super Tuscan) got everyone into the mood-if the earlier Franciacorta was not enough! Medium bodied wine with brilliant cherry red colour and intense bouquet of red fruits and floral notes, it was delicious, well balanced and easy to drink. (90/100)
 Luce della Vite Lucente 2012 Toscana IGT is the second wine of Luce della Vite owned earlier by Frescobaldi and Mondavi but now back with the Italian company and is located in Montalcino, next to the their Brunello winery Castel Giocondo. Although they make a very small quantity of super premium Brunello di Montalcino too but the quantities are too small and it’s sold off without much efforts at premium prices. Luce is the first IGT wine whereas the Lucente selling for a less than a third has about 75%Sangiovese in the blend with the balance being mostly Merlot and a touch of Cabernet. Very elegant and versatile wine with smooth and seductive aromas and berry flavours, with great harmony and balance. (92/100)
Piccini Brunello de Montalcino 2009- was a classic 2009 which was not a great vintage in Montalcino. Lighter-bodied than usual, it had otherwise a good balance but with lighter than usual texture but the tannins were also softer than a usual Brunello, making it (100 % Sangiovese known as Brunello) quite drinkable now. I was a vegetarian on this day so Brunello won’t get the best opportunity to show off. But I feel the Chef made the cardinal mistake of serving Polenta as the Main Course. Just Polenta?! Although on seeing my shocked expression the girl waiting on our table quickly went to the Chef and brought an aubergine based dish but this was after I had moved on in my culinary journey (89/100) to the dessert. However, the pairing was a lot better, making me comment that any dish with aubergine and cheese would be a good match.
Deviating from the earlier pairing of dessert with the Super Tuscan, the restaurant changed its mind at the last minute, reportedly at the Michel’s suggestion and out came the super Sauternes from Chateau Rieussec 1999 Sauterne -from Domaines Barons De Rothschild (DBR), the Lafite producer (importer Aspri). This was a wise decision because not only was the wine an elixir with high sugar balanced beautifully with fresh acidity and persistent tropical flavours but it was also a perfect match with the dessert- Gorgonzola and Mascarpone quenelle with grilled pears, granny smith apple, mikado, caramelized nuts and honey brandy reduction. This classic dessert wine almost overshadowed all the other wines. (96/100 but with food 99/100)
 Super Sommelier from Tuscany
Also present at the dinner was Alessandro Nesi, the bright, well qualified, experienced Sommelier from Piccini, who had been working in the restaurant for the last 2 weeks and was ready to return home yesterday after spending 6 months in India and working in over 10 hotels where the wines are being supplied by Prestige Wines. He went from table to table and explained the wines, supplemented by Magandeep Singh. He feels that Delhi is the best market for wines in India. After meeting about 5000 people during his stay he feels that the liquor drinkers are a vast majority but more and more drinkers are willing to order and experiment with wine. This is a positive sign.
With this observation dovetailing with what Michel Koopman and his team are trying to achieve at Leela Gurgaon, the hypothesis that wine has a huge potential in India, gains more weight, if not complete acceptance. One hopes the wine lovers of Delhi NCR support the activities planned-including a series of reasonably priced Master Classes where the guests will not only have a serious education opportunity but the tasting of several wines as well.
Subhash Arora
Video unplugged- Chat with Michel Koopman |