|  The Symposium has seen a similar pattern from the very first year except that the speeches definitely and musical soirees seem to have been somewhat reduced. While Francois Mauss, the organizer of the Symposium that is now titled as a foreign-sounding VdEWS (Villa d’Este Wine Symposium) rather than the conventional WWS (World Wine Symposium), would imply that some understanding might have been reached between the WWS and Villa d’Este that will ensure the continuation of the hotel as the venue.
Seminars at Symposium
The seminars on the current issues engaging the wine industry globally and interacting with important wine stakeholders, is the mainstay of the symposium. But the luxurious hotel full of history and grandeur does play a substantial role in attracting the people from all over the world. Besides the picture-postcard surroundings, the hospitality aspect is outstanding too. The Veranda Restaurant with huge glass windows on three sides offers a magnificent view of the outside that includes not only Lake Como but a couple of 300+ year old magnolia trees and another one over 500.
One enters the restaurant for a sumptuous breakfast which includes sparkling wines for people who want to start their day with wine tasting. The variety of dishes, the quality and the service is impeccable. I still salivate on thinking about their delicious Egg Benedict with ham and generous helping of white truffle shavings on top.
The actual event started early in the evening in a small banquet hall, called the Impero Room where one can taste wines from the producer-participants who bring a few labels to showcase in a horse-shoe patterned table setting. This is an excellent way of tasting wines of varying standards-some are already well-known while others are hidden gems. These producers bring a few extra bottles that are available with three dinners that follow the tastings every evening. Same is possible also during the sumptuous sit-down lunches. For pictures of a few participating producers, click here.
Till the third edition in 2011, I used to be the lone participant from India. But always willing to share my wine pleasures, I invited a few like-minded people last year along with a couple of quality wine producers-Four Seasons and Fratelli. This year saw a record dozen participants including the new find quality boutique producer KRSMA with the owners Krishna and Uma Prasad enjoying the taste of the whole experience.
 Different wines from well-known wine producers like Antinori, Argentiera, Castello di ColleMassari, Chateau La Pointe, Chateau Pauqué, Chateau Reignac, Maison Jadot, Maison Trimbach, Querciabella, Roberto Voerzio, Luciano Sandrone, Vega Sicilia, Weingut Dönnhoff, Weingut Ernst Loosen, Weingut Tegemseehoff and Weingut Tement were there to tickle palates, what with even the ‘Rare’ Champagne from Piper Heidsieck served to tingling palates on one occasion. Many of the producers like KRSMA Estates from India had brought extra bottles to share with the participants on their table- and others if they liked.
For the ladies who were accompanying their spouses and not much interested in the seminars, there was one hour of cookery class every day by the resident Chef Zambanini of Villa d’Este for a limited number. The event was so popular that there was no scope for a repeat at the second day’s class.
Trinity of Tastings
The 3 exclusive Vertical Tastings at extra costs of €700-900 each have become a signature hallmark at Villa d’Este World Symposium. This year it started with Cheval Blanc and ended with Domaine Romanee Conti (DRC) with Egon Mueller carrying the torch for super quality whites. These Tastings are available to the first fifty who sign up. For the information of those who might balk at the high prices, Krishna Prasad, owner of KRSMA Wine Estates could not get the ticket for the DRC Tasting for the love of money. Though he was wait-listed, there was no cancellation out of the 50 numbered bookings and he had to settle for a sip out of the share of his wife Uma Prasad at the end of the tasting.
 The Taste of the wines at these premium events offers a unique opportunity not only to taste various vintages, thus affording you the nuances of each and also letting you enjoy the different evolution of each vintage at different periods, but also an opportunity to interact with the wine celebrity bosses of each of the wineries. For instance, the Chateau Cheval Blanc Tasting was guided by Pierre Lurton, the fine winemaker and the MD of the Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ of St. Emilion. He presented ‘00, ’94, ’90, ’89, ’82,’75,’69, ’67.
Egon Mueller, one of the top Riesling producers of Mosel, who is also one of the 5 ‘Godfathers’ of the WWS, won the hearts of the Indian contingent - and everyone else with wines from his well-regarded vineyard, Scharzhofberger that I had visited a couple of years ago. With a wide assortment of vintages and styles, one could taste and admire his winemaking acumen with the Kabinett (2011, 1990), Spätlese (1983), Auslese (1971, 1966), Eiswein (1966) and TBA (2005).
The crescendo of these tastings that I refer to as the Trinity of Tastings, usually reaches its peak with DRC on the last day with Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of this iconic Burgundy Domaine, presenting his wines. To make it an even more interesting vertical tasting this year, Aubert had brought a wine each from the previous 4 vintages, from two different but equally prestigious vineyards. Echézeaux and Romanée St. Vivant were the vineyards and the vintages of ’05, ’99, ’85 and ’79 were paired. The white Montrachet 2008 was a surprise tasting. Although such tastings are noted for their quiet and serene atmosphere, followed by discussions on the wines tasted, one can savour every sip and try to lock the moment in the memory, to be cherished till much later, sometimes for years - the taste lingers on… and on.
Taste of Lunches and Dinners
 One cannot live on wine alone! The sumptuous breakfast with several individually prepared dishes like an Egg Benedict with ham and white truffle shavings adorning the top, would not let you forget the taste for a long time - at least till the next event. The 4-course lunches with different cuisines, accompanied by wines from different sponsors as mentioned already, make the moments memorable, what with the excellent waiting staff that even gets to know if you prefer Macchiato to an Espresso or a Cappuccino after just one encounter.
There are several interesting musical soirees before or after lunches and dinners, adding further, a little spice (and music) to the hectic program.
And yes! There are interesting seminars for the serious-minded too! But that is another subject. Villa d’Este is surely buzzing during the WWS weekend with a Taste that keeps tingling your taste buds long after you have left Como, with the hope and optimism that you may be able to return - in the very near future.
Subhash Arora
For one of the earlier, related articles, visit World Wine Symposium: The Taste That Lingers on
Some of the Participating Producers
Tags: World Wine Symposium, Villa d’Este, Italy, Francois Mauss, VdEWS (Villa d’Este Wine Symposium), WWS, KRSMA |