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Posted: Monday, June 08 2009. 13:50

Brane-Cantenac : Where Tradition Balances Innovation

It was early evening at the opulent Oberoi Hotel, New Delhi. Excitement was rising in anticipation as the respected, world renowned wine maker and owner of Château Brane-Cantenac prepared to present a vertical tasting of his  2ème Grand Cru Classé. Lara Ward shares her olfactory experience.

Click For Large View
“Not so powerful in structure, but elegant” is how Henri Lurton likes to describe his wines from Château Brane-Cantenac.

THE HISTORY OF CHATEAU BRANE-CANTENAC AND MARGAUX
One of ten children, Henri (in addition to one brother and sister) was gifted Château Brane-Cantenac by their father in 1992. Over time Henri bought out his brother and sister to be sole owner of the family estate.

Brane-Cantenac is founded on a plateau of 90 hectares in the Margaux appellation, made up mostly of large sized gravel, which have been delivered from the mountains by the Gironde River over time. This deep gravely soil drains exceptionally well and creates ideal growing conditions for the vines. It also promotes deep root growth providing trace minerals adding a complexity to the taste of the wines.

The Margaux appellation is made up of just 1,300 hectares in total, and is situated in the Médoc region to the west of the Gironde River, where the river splits to form the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers.

Between 1996 and 1999 the vat cellar, wine making techniques and team at Château Brane-Cantenac, relished in a renaissance. This was to ensure a continued future with promise at the level of which the family were accustomed. All of which proved a very wise investment. And as Henri likes to say; “Between the sometimes stifling weight of tradition and the temptation to make a clean sweep of the past, there is a middle ground to be trodden.”

Henri has aligned himself with 4 oenologists, even though he brings to the Château his found knowledge from working in Australia and Chile. He likes to adapt this international knowledge to the place he calls home, and find a style appropriate to the terroir that Margaux is so quintessentially famous for.

THE VERTICAL TASTING

Henri Lurton personally presented the eight wines from the 2007 vintage through to the eagerly awaited 2000 vintage, all second growth in the classification of 1855.

Typical of Margaux, the eight wines shown had a full-flavoured bouquet with magnificent elegance. The wines are a blend of vats that have been selected for their suppleness which is aged just like the ‘Grand Vin’, although for a 12 month period.

Château Brane-Cantenac gave themselves the challenging task of producing wines that are both very elegant but will age well, and have succeeded. Henri stands by his adage of “It’s very important for Margaux wines to have soft tannins” and produces wines considering them “A little bit like a marathon” beginning with the terroir, through to the production, aging and finally drinking, but only when ready.

Château Brane-Cantenac’s wines are predominantly driven by the Cabernet Sauvignon grape, with Merlot to add the softness and a lesser amount of Petit Verdot to aid the aromatics. The exact blend varies from vintage to vintage and when deciding on this, Henri makes a selection from over 100 samples, and it comes down to a question of balance over blend.

The quality of tannins takes priority over the quantity of tannins, which is paramount to Château Brane-Cantenac. Additional to this, the qualities of the wines doesn’t come down to fashion; it results in producing a wine that primarily is one that Henri enjoys himself and second to that, it is about finding those consumers that will buy the wine. He seems to have found the answer to his success.

The wines are aged in new French oak barrels for 16-20 months before bottling. The characteristics of these wines enable them to be enjoyed 5-6 years after bottling, and beyond. They are all delicious and match well with both spicy lamb dishes and chicken dishes alike.

So why don’t you find out for yourself, and enjoy a glass (or bottle) of history and international acclaim, and discover the beauty that Château Brane-Cantenac brings to India.

Wines Tasted

Vintage Blend Tasting Notes
2007 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc Too young, although dark spicy fruit, rounded, creamy quality on palate which is gentle and understated. Spicy tannins, and balance of character.
2006 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc Red fruits, mixed with spices and toast. Forward elegance, round tannic structure, aromas of cherry and vanilla. 
2005 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc Red fruits, berries and flowers. A big wine, well integrated tannins. Long, fresh finish. Made impeccably. 
2004 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc Clean nose, notes of fruits, tobacco, flowers and spice. Great suppleness, long finish, lingering notes of toast and fruits. 
2003 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc Complex nose with toasty vanilla. Need oxygenation to develop black fruits, spices and tobacco. Balanced with long aromatic finish.
2002 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc Aromatic nose of spice, balsamic and oak, with tobacco and liquorice. Silky tannic structure. Lingering finish.
2001 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc Aromas of roast coffee. Displays spices, flowers, raspberries and blackberries with notes of leather and tobacco. Long, powerful oak finish.
2000 55% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc Aromas of black fruit with oak initially. Complexity with black currant, red fruit jam, leather aroma, floral notes. Ripe tannins, long lingering finish. 

Lara Ward

Lara is an Australian who has been living for the past 10 years in England until recently. She is a Panelist with the Indian Wine Academy. With a background in marketing, Lara has worked most recently in London for the Bordeaux Wine Council (C.I.V.B.) on their UK account. With a passion for wine and writing, she is keen to broaden her knowledge whilst in India and share her experiences with our readers.

       

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