|
 I got interested in Melroy Fernandes, Head Sommelier at St Regis Hotel in Abu Dhabi, when he told me that the person he admired the most in the wine industry was Gerard Basset whom I have met twice in Vinisud, Montpellier and once at Hong Kong at the Decanter Asia Awards. Gerard has the unique distinction of being MW, Master Sommelier, MBA and on top of that an OBE-and a very humble person who is a much sought after ‘Best Sommelier of the World’. So I wanted to know how an Indian sommelier was doing in the world of wine overseas and try to encourage the Indian industry people to broaden their horizons in wines; this could also be helpful for the wine novices as well as connoisseurs.
Beginning at, Orchid, Taj, Oberoi & JW Marriott, Melroy finally settled with the Leela Kempinski in Mumbai, where his knowledge expanded while working with the first French Sommelier in Bombay- Sylvain Charrier. It further set him on a journey through the vineyards of Italy, Spain and France, taking him through the unique terroirs of Bordeaux, Alsace, Verona, Tuscany, right to Germany and Switzerland. His passion & desire took him around the Mediterranean, through Egypt, Israel and North Africa.
Here are some highlights of the chat I could gather from him:
What and when was your first encounter with wine and the industry?
During my hospitality management in the year 2000 I was intrigued by the topic of wine. The history of wine, its evolution and versatility in growing around the world, the cultures associated with it and its uniqueness to every terroir fascinated me. My hunger to learn various cultures had found its way through the topic of wines that put me on an amazing journey through the World of Wine.
Based on your experience what specific skills should a Sommelier possess?
I feel the most important trait for a professional performance would be the passion for wines and a hunger to learn. Pride in the role, yet humility is a subtle quality that accentuates growth. With experience salesmanship, management, and other qualities develop.
How would you advise a customer in selecting wine in a restaurant?
‘Know your Guest’ is a common and yet vaguely utilized phrase in Hospitality. Reading the customer would be the most important task as that would tell you largely about:
1) Their preference- whether white, red, dry, off- dry wine etc.
2) Their moods, temperament that would play a huge part in satisfying their need or blowing them away.
3) Their willingness to try confidently what you recommend.
What are the key ingredients for creating a wine list for restaurants?
Wine lists are generally the first Point of Sale for any Restaurant. Key ingredients in creating a good wine list would be:
1) Matching the style and cuisine of the restaurant/ hotel with the wine selection. For example, :- a) Some of the most fascinating Organic/ Bio dynamic wines that are enlisted at a restaurant may match their Sustainable Philosophy.
b) some of the most sought after, un-obtainable first growths clearly matching their style of Luxury beyond Imagination.
2) A good range of 250-400 labels depending on the location, size and business of the hotel.
3) Knowledge of guest average spend, sales and history helps frame a moving wine list with 60:40 new world and old world balance.
4) Correct pricing with the company's assigned costing and profit will assist in establishing Guest loyalty and trust. Ridiculous prices dishearten guests from trying good wine and damage the name of the restaurant. They reduce sale drastically in the long run.
Should a Sommelier taste a guest's wine?
Yes, a sommelier should taste a guest's wine for faults. It assists him in the following ways:
1. It helps him determine if the wine is good and without faults.
2. It re-assures the guest that the wine he is drinking is good.
3. It gives the sommelier the upper hand and confidence to talk more about that wine, and avoid embarrassing situations where the wine has turned unfit for consumption.
4. It provides the sommelier the opportunity to learn and understand a new wine.
What's your philosophy about wine glasses?
"Right glassware for the right wines" has a lot to do in increasing the guest experience. Having a decent selection of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Riesling glassware, depending on the style of the restaurant, yet not too many that would cause chaos, would do well in highlighting the restaurant. I've worked with Schott Zwiesel, Riedel and Zalto previously and am currently looking at low Carbon glasses for Organic restaurants.
What advice would you give people on pairing wine with food?
My personal advice would be- you know yourself better than anyone else so choose the style of wine you like; then go about with the basics of food and wine pairing. Match the body, aroma, texture and taste and don't hesitate to experiment. You may be surprised.
Stick to the basics of wine and food pairing but be willing to diversify and experiment a bit too. Everyone loves a good game.
What would be your advice to a young, budding Sommelier?
A sommelier is a well rounded individual just like a fine wine, with knowledge and skill not just limited to Wine or hospitality. His/her knowledge and abilities must have ample of General knowledge, great conversations and stories to tell, that would come from Extensive travelling and experience. A certificate in Hospitality and Wines combined with Travelling and new Challenges will strengthen and mould you into a fine Sommelier.
How does one stay on top in the ever changing wine industry?
Reading and Travel provide you with Knowledge and experience. Trends in the wine industry are changing constantly. Getting updated through wine magazines or internet websites helps in staying updated.
For earlier related articles, visit
Star Interview: Gerard Basset Sommelier Restaurateur Extraordinaire
Vinisud 2012: Tips for Sommeliers from Top Sommelier
Subhash Arora |