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Photos By:: Adil Arora
 When Keith Edgar, a Canadian wine educator currently settled in Kolkata, approached me with a proposal to have a dinner with the members of Delhi Wine Club (DWC) I agreed because a producer as well as a Master of Wine would be present to showcase wines from Principe Corsini Estate in Tuscany and Astrolabe in New Zealand. I had been to the Chianti Classico estate of the Corsini family and the New Zealand wines seemed to be attractively priced for members to be the first to taste.
Unfortunately, the date clashed as we had already planned a dinner on the desired date, September 27 at Lavaash Restaurant which was being officially inaugurated with this dinner by the Club. Keith suggested an alternate date-3 days later! I wasn’t sure if we could handle two dinners with such a short gap. But when he agreed to my request to have Master of Wine Liam Steevenson hold a mini Masterclass for 30 minutes for club members, reflecting on the flavours of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, I grabbed the golden opportunity for members to have the Masterclass at Rara Avis Restaurant followed by dinner. From the reaction of the Masterclass, it was a judicious decision. For details visit
An Al fresco dinner was planned on the terrace offering a pleasant view of GK greens that add to an enjoyable evening with the excellent French cuisine the restaurant is known for. But the expected cool weather eluded us and we were in a fix. Luckily, Rajiv Aneja in a true restaurateur style took it upon himself to find all of us an alternative seating in the main restaurant, even if it meant inducing a big group there to move upstairs with an inducement of a complimentary dessert.
During this period the Pass Around snacks kept streaming at the terrace. Chicken Basil Tarts which were perfect in the mouth-crispy on entry and melting once inside, baked to perfection. Cocktail Sausages had been the most popular snack during the Seminar as well-with the right amount of spices ensuring aromas and flavour. Leeks Tarts (V) were as usual delicious while Arancini Balls (V) was a surprise. They could give the original ones from Sicily run for the money. But the protagonist was the chilled fruity and herbaceous Astrolabe Durvillea Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014. It was a very pleasant condiment for the snacks and very refreshing for the otherwise warm evening- clean, fresh, with zingy aromas, concentration of capsicums, green fruit and herbaceous flavours, with medium length and balanced acidity.
This said and done, the problem of service and realignment started. One had to wait and depend upon a glass of Principe Corsini Vermentino della Costa 2013 before the food service could commence. After a slight delay which eventually extended the dinner, was otherwise welcome break from the delicious snacks. We were able to settle down only as the amuse bush arrived.
French Onion Soup (V) is always my favourite as a started and it didn’t disappoint I prefer my soups without wine but I also love a glass of Vermentino from Maremma- Principe Corsini Vermentino della Costa 2013 was almost redundant-just as well as I had finished mine as Princess Sabina Corsini in a coy Italian style told us that though she looked after the real estate and hospitality business of the family, the setting up of the winery in Maremma was the brother’s and her idea-together they had convinced their parents over dinner to buy land near Grosseto on the southernmost tip of Maremma and set up the second winery; the one in Chianti Classico has been with the family since 1759. She confessed that Vermentino was not a wine to analyse or talk about much except being nice for easy drinking-which it was; and a bit spicy too. Not a common varietal in India yet, it’s a popular white Tuscan varietal mostly grown in Maremma and this was a good expression of the grape.
Smoked Chicken Salad with Warm Goat Cheese Salad as its vegetarian cuisine is a house specialty and the fresh ingredients with crunchy greens make it really appealing. The smoked chicken made it a great partner with the Astrolabe Durvillea Pinot Noir 2011which was very fresh and fruity-full of black cherries and plum flavours and soft tannins, balanced acidity and silky texture that made the wine a favourite. The medium-bodied wine was a delicious quaff and won the heart of most members. Liam Steevenson, who had earlier conducted the seminar at the terrace, presented the wine.
Tenuta Marsiliana is the second winery set up by Principe Corsini in Maremma where they focus on international grapes like most other wineries. Birillo is their signature wine. Principe Corsini Tenuta Marsiliana Birillo Maremma Toscana 2012 was much anticipated wine. Meat terrine was the perfect match for this full-bodied red with Bordeaux-type blend of Cabernet-Merlot. Slightly savoury in character being close to the ocean, the medium to full bodied red was nice and warm, full and delectable on the palate.
Sorbet –like, soothing Granita gave the harried kitchen staff an opportunity to catch up with the main course and much needed respite for members who were satiated by now. I wonder if Wild Mushroom Risotto, the not-so-French but delicious preparation was enough for the vegetarians or if they thought it was unfair that the non-vegetarians could also share it along with Chicken Cordon Bleu, the signature French Mains for the restaurant (the vegetarians are generally encouraged to choose additional dishes, if they so like) but it was very well prepared as usual and is a nice ending to any meal at Rara Avis.
 I was concerned it might not be the perfect fit for the Principe Corsini Chianti Classico DOCG 2012 (I would have preferred a lamb preparation) but surprisingly the tannins in the Chianti Classico were handled rather magnificently by the chicken with its ‘thickish’ sauce. The wine was very well balanced on its own-it had a nice, persistent mouth-feel and a long and juicy finish.
The best was yet to come. Keith Edgar presented the icewine which was available unfortunately only as the tasting portion. But it was quite illustrative of why Canada made superlative Icewines. Don Ziraldo was pioneer in making icewine and started the world-famous Inniskillin Winery with 1975 as the first vintage. When it was sold to Constellation Brands in 2006, he made handsome profit -pots of money, as Keith Edgar said while presenting the wine from his homeland. Ziraldo could have sat on his laurels and the millions but the astute Don had kept a few acres of the premium vineyards for himself. The fruit from those vineyards goes into making Ziraldo Vidal Icewine. It’s this wine we were able to taste at the end of the dinner.
It may not be out of line to say I was partially motivated with the lure of having members taste the elixir. I had met Don at Vinitaly in 2002 and tasted several variants as he had explained to me all about icewine in 3 hours. Very concentrated, full of tropical flavours-honey, lychies and mangoes, makes me salivate every time I think of it. That’s because despite the high sugar level of over 250 gms/liter, it has high acidity to balance that I remember every time I think of icewine.
Aided by the fact that the open bottle can last for 2-3 weeks, I am certain this wine will find good takers, provided the hotels promote it properly and sell-by-the –glass (3o mL or 45 mL as a standard package.) This can be an absolute winner at the Delhi Duty Free Shop (DDF) where Inniskillin when available, varies from $80- $120, depending on the variant.
I won’t mind taking the credit for the fact that I worked through the whole dessert list of the restaurant and chose the lemon tart and the brown chocolate cake with Ziraldo Vidal Icewine 2012. Normally one gets the lemon sorbet with the tart and an ice-cream is served with the cake, but the two desserts had a nice ménage de trios with this elixir I call ‘Amrit’.
An excellent evening if you forgive the weather and I would remember it for the delicious wines and food, lovely guests- Princess Sabina Corsini, Liam Steevenson MW and Keith Edgar, and the dexterity of Rajiv Aneja, the Indian partner of Rara Avis to change the venue to the main restaurant from the al fresco dining we had planned. With the unexpected summer heat back in action, it saved us from the dinner being a disaster.
Subhash Arora
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