There were 49 wineries and wine companies participating, including Jacquart and Drappier Champagne Houses through their importers while the rest were all South African producers. One could see some prominent producers like Klein Constantia, Diemersdal, Paul Cluver, Hamilton Russell Vineyards- Newton Johnson(the two kings of Burgundian Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the famous Hemel en Aarde region) Villiera Wines, Jordan Wine Estate, Tokara wine, Raats, Delaire Graff, Waterkloof , De Toren, Morgenster Estate, Ken Forrester, Warwick, Saronsberg from Tulbagh, Graham Beck as some of the exhibitors.
Ken Forrester was one of the producers I talked to and tasted his excellent FMC Chenin Blanc 2004 and 2005. Known to be unconventional in taking the lead in improving the quality of Chenin Blanc during the last 20 years, he has been leading the pack trying to make it a world class product. He was not willing to waste his time with me discussing how he had upgraded the quality in 20 years as it required at least 3 hours to discuss. But he resoundingly agreed that Chenin Blanc had become very elegant with or without oak (I tasted his FMC 2004 and 2005 and couldn’t believe a pedestrian grape like Chenin Blanc could give such elegant results).
About 800-1,000 people pay 450 Rands (appx. $40) to enter the premises which has wines, food and Master Classes during the 5 hour period from 3-8 pm- perhaps the best value-for-money event.
Jorg Pfutzner is a sommelier and events manager who has been organising the annual event, earlier at the Taj Cape Town, for the last 5 years. He charges 4500 Rands ($40) from the producers who bring the magnum or bigger bottles, though many had a combination while a few did not seem to have arranged them but poured from ordinary bottles. A significant number of wines were exclusive in that one does not find them in the regular tastings and not easily in the market.
There were interesting snacks prepared by some of the well-known chefs of South Africa, at no extra costs, barring the entry charge. This makes the festival very attractive to exhibitors, consumers and of course the organisers. One such Chef was Rudi Liebenberg who specialized in European cuisine In the Mount Nelson Hotel’s flagship Planet Restaurant was preparing special kind of pasta and serving generously.
Our own Punjabi Chef Shyam Longani of Bombay Brasserie, Taj Cape Town was present with what appeared to be dahi-bhalle but was in fact a lamb based middle-eastern dish. The tasting was organized in different rooms of the Club with each room having at least one such table with plenty of food including delicious burgers. It was impossible to taste all the food and wine in the 5-hour window available.
Master Classes
No such festival can be complete without a few master classes. There were sommeliers, winemakers and producers to keep one busy for the whole time-starting with one on the MCC (Methode Cap Classique) bubblies that have really come up in quality during the last few years. As the winemaker of Graham Beck explained to me, they had an Association of 93 producers out of around 150 producing the bubbly and they met regularly and at least once a year to brainstorm and discuss the technological developments going on in the world. The concurred objective of the Association was to produce high quality wines and strive to improve the quality.
MCC producer and Champagne expert Paul Gerber, of Le Lude Cap Classique, presented a tasting of Cap Classique and Champagnes and talked about the impact of Agrafe cork (used by the likes of Bollinger for premium wines) vs. crown cap fermentation and ageing on the lees. Eben Sadie talked about matured white wines, followed by a Vertical Tasting of Anthony Hamilton Russell's Pinot Noir-his immensely successful Burgundian - style wines that have set the standard of excellence and refinement for South African Pinot Noir.
No matter how you look at it, Big Bottle Festival is a great idea for a nice and long afternoon in the company of wine, food and the producers. We do have some events in India already but you hardly find the producers or winemakers at such events. Perhaps, one day we shall incorporate some changes based on what happens at the Big Bottle Festival.
Subhash Arora |