Last October. when Carlos Marques representing a Portuguese Wine Producers Consortium presented a dozen wines from different regions of Portugal at the residence of H.E. Jorge Roza de Oliveira, Portuguese Ambassador in Delhi, to a select group of importers, journalists, sommeliers and diplomats, he had made a very important statement that might enable him to face the rough and hot winds of the Indian wine market without singeing him. He said he was in India for the long–term despite the tough conditions because he loved the country. This was his first shield against the rough weather. He also teamed up with another Portuguese living in Delhi who was as passionate about India as Carlos. Married to an Indian, Mauro Neves was happy to pursue a venture right from his home in Delhi.
Very few producers have these two positive factors on their side. The Consortium of four wineries from different parts of Portugal producing different wines gave them not only the opportunity to showcase the kaleidoscope of Portuguese wines but also the promise of having more than one importer. PortIndia, as the Consortium christened itself, has now 4 wineries in its fold. Carlos Marques sits at the keyboard of his computer while Mauro Neves handles the front-end of the operations.
Mauro has been meeting various importers and F& B personnel during the last 7 months after the first tasting in a dream setting of the ambassador’s residence. Though success has not exactly touched their feet, PortIndia is positive that they have made headway-especially as they have been in positive talks with Mohan Bros. and Dhall Foods both of whom were represented at the tasting by the poolside at the Canada Club where about 20 members and another 10 invitees from Port India tasted 10 wines some of which were delicious and definitely deserve a place in the wine cellar or retail shops.
Following are the wines in order of their presentation:
1.Varanda do Conde |
- Vinho Verde |
2.Porca da Murca |
- White Wine |
3.Cova Juliana |
- Sparkling Rose |
4.Evel |
- White Wine |
5.Portal do Fidalgo |
- Vinho Verde |
6.Campolargo |
- Sparkling White |
7.Piornos |
- Red Wine |
8.Porca da Murca |
- Red Wine |
9.Muscatel do Douro |
- Moscatel |
10.Oporto Ruby |
- Port Wine |
Wineries represented were Real Companhia Velha, the oldest company of Portugal started in 1756 in Porto by the dictatorial Prime Minister Marquis de Pombal with dubious financial integrity but a lot of power. It has changed several hands ever since and has established itself as one of the good producers. Adega de Covilhã is a co-operative which was founded in 1954 and the first vintage of 1954 was by 147 associates. In 2000 it won the “Best Wine Co-op’ Award. Campolargo has two properties; this is a relatively new venture started in 2004 only but has a state-of the art winery. Provam is the fourth winery, partnering this export project being overseen by Carlos.
The white wines were generally quite impressive even as the first Alvarinho 2011 (Albariño in the neighbouring Spain) was about to be past its prime. So were the sparkling wines-especially the Rosado from Cova Juliana. The relatively low alcohol levels were also visible. The red wines had a diversified flavour spectrum but unfortunately the wines were a bit too warm for the atmosphere with people jostling around for wines.
Platefuls of finely chopped cheese pieces with saltine biscuits were a good condiment. Perhaps due to different social etiquettes, the Canadians were busy drinking wine with the range of snacks which they could apparently buy as individuals from the club and non members had to stick the nose into the glass only.
The Ambassador was there for quite some time, beaming with his characteristic diplomatic charm. An active promoter and supporter of Portuguese wines, he actively supports every initiative of Portuguese producers as he knows a continued presence is required. Hopefully one would see him again tomorrow May 23, 2014 at 7 pm at the British High Commission where another tasting is being held with 12 wines, 9 of which will be a surprisingly large number to taste.
One hopes that the progress made by PortIndia would help them put their feet firmly into the ground.
Subhash Arora
Tags: The Canada Club, Port India, Jose de Oliveira, Port, Portugal, PortIndia, Real Companhia Velha, Adega de Covilhã, Campolargo, Provam |