Writing about the CEO of Chateau d'Ori, Mr. Dhuru, 'pouring several of his wines for visitors in his sparsely furnished four-bedroom guest house, which overlooks the vineyards she says, 'his 2007 chenin blanc was smooth and nutty, not sweet, with good acidity, but too alcoholic at 14.7 percent. "We're in a hot country, and next year we'll have to keep the alcohol in check," he said.
'His sauvignon blanc, in a slightly oaky California fumé blanc style, was another big wine', writes Florence Fabricant who had apparently visited the guest house close to the winery.
'Fresh-tasting sauvignon blancs, and chenin blancs, sometimes with a slightly sweet finish, are typical of India's whites. They are good complements for seafood and for vegetarian dishes like bhindi masala, which is braised spiced okra, or saag paneer, which is a kind of dense fresh cheese in spinach sauce.'
(I personally feel saag paneer would go better with the Shiraz or Merlot which can handle the light tannin. But that is why we say food-wine match is a matter of personal choices-editor.)
'Chateau d'Ori's red wines, like the 2007 cabernet sauvignon-merlot blend, offered lush fruit and hints of bell pepper, and turned out to be a suitable partner for meats and breads seared in the tandoor clay oven. The 2007 merlot was soft and elegant, but a simpler wine.'
The credit for fine style and quality goes to Athanase Fakorellis, the consultant winemaker. 'This year, with the help of a consulting oenologist from Bordeaux, Mr. Dhuru expects to produce about 300,000 bottles of white and red wines. By next year, he estimates that a million bottles will bear the Chateau d'Ori label,' she writes.
She shows her appreciation for Indian wines, 'Most wine made in India is consumed there. And as wine publications, wine clubs, competitions and tasting dinners have taken hold, gradually, Indian wines with notable finesse are becoming available and appreciated.'
Indian wineries have to cope with challenges that do not exist in wine regions elsewhere. For starters, the calendar is turned upside down. Even though the region is north of the equator, grapes are pruned in September and picked in February and March to avoid stifling heat and the summer monsoon season.
Talking of Sula Vineyards, she adds, 'established in 1996 on the outskirts of Nasik, the brand is most often on wine lists. Although Nasik has a reputation as the Napa of India, Sula is one of just a handful of wineries designed to receive visitors with a tasting room, tours and a guest house.' She also has good words for Grover and Indus Wines.
In this NY Times Article 'Red, White and Sultry: The Wines of India' Florence tells her readers to 'Forget Napa-Meet the Wines of India', leaving food for positive thoughts for the doubting Thomases.
Subhash Arora
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