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 Most champagnes are Non Vintage (NV), meaning that the base wine is blended with reserve wine from previous vintages. But during the exceptional vintages Drappier creates special champagne, labelled as Millésime Exception. He opened two Jeroboam bottles of the exceptional vintage 2002 at Prowein to toast the Show. Michele Drappier, co-owner of the family owned Champagne House, who was in Mumbai last year to promote Drappier label being imported by Ace Beveragez told me after the ceremonial popping ,’ 2002 was the best vintage during the last few decades and we decided to raise a toast to the Prowein 2015 and our friends, distributors and customers visiting the Show with a couple of Jeroboam bottles.’ He also confirmed that most of these have been sold off and are usually popped at only special celebratory events like this.
 Jeroboam is a double magnum-equivalent of 3 liters (4 bottles) and is often referred to as a double magnum (which has the equivalent of 2 standard bottles) and along with the magnum forms a typical size for the celebrations like a wedding or a banquet. Despite the high price tag, it is quite popular in India, where Cote d’Or NV is imported and retails for Rs. 78,000 a Jeroboam (MRP in Delhi).
While Cote d’Or has 80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay and 5% Meunier- all the three grapes allowed in Champagne, the Millésime Exception 2002 is made from 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay. Besides using the grapes from Premier Cru vineyards, the two are aged partially in oak barrels.
 The champagne was brilliant golden in colour with engaging bouquet. The wine had been disgorged barely a few months ago and tasted crisp and very fresh in the mouth. The dosage of 8-9 gms has made it easy drinking on the palate. The millions of tiny bubbles (over 400 million of them according to Michel) entrapped but reduced in size over the years, danced around on the palate even after the mousse in the glass had disappeared. There was a shade of oak vanilla flavour though the zingy feel on the palate balanced it very well. The yeasty and bready notes made it rather complex tasting wine as well. It is well-structured with medium body thanks to Pinot Noir. The after-taste was very long and one could hear the fading sound of the whistle long time after the train had left the station. It will perhaps be around for another 5 years, if one can find and store a bottle. Rating 95/100
 Drappier was not the only stand where one could taste good and exceptional quality champagnes. Besides several participants in the champagne corner, there was a special Champagne Lounge where one could try champagnes from several producers, including the growers and the award winning champagnes from Mundusvini –the most well-known wine competition held in Germany. One only hoped that the Lounge didn't leave many visitors with headache the morning after.
But for those who came to the Drappier stand where Michele Drappier was kind enough to dispense a generous portion to me because of my love for his Rose Brut in India and the distance I had covered from India just to be at Prowein 2015 and his stand, I’d say Cheers-twice!!
Subhash Arora |