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Posted: Tuesday, June 02 2009. 10:43

A Touch of Tuscany at the Taj

During the early evening as the summer sun was setting, it was welcome relief to taste Tuscan delights from the Chianti Classico region, presented by manager of Brancaia himself, Martin Kronenberg at the Taj Hotel, Delhi, last Saturday, writes Lara Ward a panellist of delWine.

Oozing with India’s grand, cultural heritage, the Taj Hotel was a perfect pairing for the Tuscan treats we were about to explore. 

After a brief introduction to Brancaia (pron. Bran-kai-ya) and its philosophy of handcrafting their wines, with the owners and producers residing on the estates, we also discussed the typicity of the terroir and Tuscany producing wines of international acclaim. The three vineyards contributing to Brancaia’s wines are owned by Swiss couple, Brigitte and Bruno Widmer, and managed by Martin and his wife, Barbara. They also enjoy the consulting support by the brilliant winemaker Dr. Carlo Ferrini.

Wines Tasted

The wines we were fortunate enough to try were Brancaia’s Tre 2006, Brancaia’s Il Bru 2004 and Brancaia from their Maremma region, Ilatraia 2005. Neatly we finished off in true traditional Italian spirit, with Brancaia’s very own Grappa.  

The chief winemaker for Brancaia is Martin’s wife Barbara, who is also an oenologist by profession. Interestingly research has proven that women have more taste buds than men, endowing a greater sensitivity to sweetness, sourness, saltiness and bitterness making her the prime candidate for the role. And in turn Barbara produces some deliciously juicy reds mostly made up of the Sangiovese grape variety.

Brancaia established itself on the international wine producing map when in 1983 its vintage won first place at the major Chianti Classico tasting. Since that time, Brancaia has continued to win many awards both home and away for many years since.

All the three wines tasted on Saturday were ready for drinking. These wines are to be enjoyed at the present time rather than storing them for years to come as investment. This suits the climate of India perfectly with the fluctuating temperatures, and if you’re fortunate enough to have control over storage of wines in your home, the ideal temperature to serve these (and most wines)is  between 14’C and 16’C, and most certainly not at room temperature depending on how you live.

Brancaia Tre 2006 exuberated peppery, juicy fresh red berries on the palate with light tannins and good complexity. Full of character, this wine is enjoyed young. This would be ideal paired with lighter dishes, either chicken, fish or vegetarian. With 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine has the medium body and elegance expected from such a blend.

Brancaia Il Blu, Rosso IGT Toscana 2004 is a Super Tuscan with good complexity, displaying plumy, jammy fruits and good tannins. This wine constitutes 50% Sangiovese, 45% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon making it another medium bodied wine with good intensity ready to drink now. It pairs well with fuller flavoured dishes.

The final wine for the tasting was Brancaia’s Maremma Ilatraia 2005. Most recently rated 92/100 in Wine Spectator and 94/100 in Falstaff. Being a popular blend of Bordeaux grapes, this wine displayed more maturity with deep red, dark berry fruits, with light tannins, low minerality and good acidity. The 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot gave it the perfect balance for a wine so widely enjoyed intense with flavoured foods, particularly lamb or chicken. 

The Italians have an interesting relationship with Grappa, with one glass never being enough. And to complete Brancaia’s portfolio, they decided to introduce a Grappa in November 2002. To complete a meal, a swift taste of this grappa is sure to aid digestion and a weary mind. Aged in French oak this grappa has the spicy sweetness you’d expect with honey and peach qualities.

The wines are being imported by Vishal Kadakia of the Wine Park, Mumbai. A wine enthusiast, Vishal accompanied Martin for his second guided tasting in India, the first being last year at the Imperial Hotel when delWine had interviewed Martin extensively.

Lara Ward

Lara is an Australian who has been living for the past 10 years in England until recently. She is a Panelist with the Indian Wine Academy. With a background in marketing, Lara has worked most recently in London for the Bordeaux Wine Council (C.I.V.B.) on their UK account. With a passion for wine and writing, she is keen to broaden her knowledge whilst in India and share her experiences with our readers.

       

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