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Stephen Henschke is one of the most famous winemakers and wine producers of South Australia. Based in Barossa Valley's neighbouring Eden Valley. his Hill of Grace is an iconic wine that can set you back by over US$ 650, if you can lay your hands on it.
Don't call me Cult please
The mild mannered and modest winemaker does not like 'Hill of Grace' to be referred to as a cult wine. 'Cult status implies that it is a trader wine; that is, the traders pick up the wine to make a killing on selling it. I think the proper way would be to address it as an iconic wine.' As a comparable example, Harlan Estate wine in Napa is pre-sold on allocation to a select few at around US $450 a bottle and may be re-sold for upwards of $600, instantly on release.
Sitting next to me at the dinner table, Stephen spent one evening chatting about his winemaking philosophy during the 'Wine Experience Dinner' at the Coriander Leaf Restaurant, in Clarkes Quay. The dinner, organised by Malcolm Tham, Director of Wine for Asia, showcased a couple of his labels along with other wine makers, Pepper Tree of Coonawarra, and Troll Creek.
Hill of Grace goes iconic
Henschke celebrates its 140th anniversary this year. But not much was heard during my interview about the iconic Hill of Grace turning 50 this year!
'My father started making it in 1953 as a family wine and it was released in 1958 under this name,' says Stephen. 'It was a special wine made from the old Shiraz vines that turn 140 this year. Produced from a single vineyard named Hill of Grace, it yields only 1 ton/acre of fruit. This was a very good wine from the very beginning but got noticed after Prue and I joined dad's business.'
Incidentally, when his father Cyril made the wine, people scoffed at the idea- those were the days of fortified wine in Australia!
'The international recognition came in 1984 when a group of 'Masters of Wine' (MW) visited Australia and tasted several wines including ours. They gave glowing reviews to the Hill of Grace. Then tasting with other journalists followed and there has been no looking back.'
It may be an interesting comparison that during his father's time, the 'Hill of Grace' sold in Australia for around A$4. It sells for A$500 now! And - it is on allocation.
Henschke- marriage of viticulture and winemaking
The simple recipe of making good wine is when the viticulture bonds well with winemaking. What better example can there be than his marrying his wife of 33 years, Prue! Both of them went to study at the Geisenheim Institute in Germany, the Harvard of oenology. A graduate of Botany and Zoology, Prue knew enough of plant life before submerging hersel in viticulture while Stephen opted for winemaking at the Institute.
The 'Made for Each Other' couple make a perfect team to make the perfect wine, among others, the Hill of Grace 100% Shiraz which shares with the Penfolds Grange an iconic status.
Prue-the Pruner
The red wines which focus on fruit maturity, submerged cap open fermentation, minimal racking, no fining and minimal filtration are really based on fruit quality in the vineyard, says Stephen Henschke.
His wife Prue Henschke does the pruning and all the other functions expected of a viticulturist. 'Of course, I have 3 persons help me all the time,' she smiles shyly. After spending the whole year looking after the vines like her three children, she goes to the vineyard everyday during the harvest season with or without Stephen to taste the fruit.
'Get your tannins ripe,' she said
As she demonstrated to the whole class in a Master Class on viticulture, she showed the right way of breaking a berry and removing the juice till only the skin is left on your palate. She went on to explain how to chew the skin to get the feel of the tannins. 'It is very important that the tannins in the skin are ripe. Many viticulturists make the mistake of only looking at the Brix value- thus getting green tannins in the grape they use. This will always give green tannins in the wine which would have a grassy and unpleasant flavour.'
How has she helped improve the vine growing on the estate, I ask? 'My basic job is to release the stresses on a vine.' To that extent, she looks after the canopy management, straw mulching the ground between the vines. The purpose of developing the canopy structure is again, to make sure that the tannins are ripe,' she says, getting a bit technical.
Her latest excitement is the development of foliage lifter, a device she has got made with the help of local students to help lift the 2m high trellis at different levels – otherwise quite a strenuous exercise. She has got the patent on it and is working on getting it fabricated for commercial use. This would give them better canopy control and less physical pain, once installed.
Going Organic
She has also introduced organic farming and uses worms for sustainability of soil and avoids the use of Nitrogen as fertiliser. About to go organically certified she also admits to tinkering with biodynamic farming in part, including harvesting the grapes on a full moon.
All in the Family
Apart from their own grapes in the Eden Valley vineyards and Adelaide Hills, they also buy grapes from outside. 'You may be surprised to know that we have been buying grapes from our relatives for generations now.' We have an excellent working relationship and it is all in the family,' he adds.
And the Beat Goes On
Stephen Henschke is the 5th generation entrepreneur. When I asked him if he was aware of the BBR Future Report that depicted a negative picture for the Australian wine industry, he replied in the negative but did not feel disturbed either.
'I am sure Australia will find a solution to the problem of global warming like the Carbon footprint problem. In any case, we can move to a cooler part of Australia, like Victoria and Tasmania. New Zealand is there too.' BBR Future Report (delWine has written about it in an earlier edition) has painted a gloomy picture for Australia due to rising temperatures, that will benefit New Zealand.
'I have told our 24 year old son Johann that if wants to join the business, the future is bright. He has in fact already joined in the winemaking, and is the 6th generation entry into the winery,' adds. Justine and Andreas , the other two children are still studying.
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