April 06: The beautiful, medieval town of San Gimignano, granted UNESCO world heritage status in 1990, received Italian and International journalist a few weeks ago for one day to taste their wines during Gala Dinner, Art Museum and a special blind Tasting at Sala Dente of 12 wines, writes Subhash Arora who finds the time too short to enjoy the city but leaves with the hope and knowledge that he would hopefully come back to the charming town yet another time
Several years ago I had met an American lady who was driving for a transport company and brought me back from Greve in Chianti back to Florence after I visited Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico producer. She told me about her visit to Tuscany about 20 years earlier and fell in love with Vernaccia di San Gimignano, the white wine from Tuscany and never went back to the US.
When I went to San Gimignano for the first time about 6-7 years ago, I was even more charmed by the town, its history and the political ups and downs, architecture and above all the art and frescoes in the ‘Centro’ (downtown). Suffice it to say I also loved the white wine though I preferred simpler, plain vanilla version of the wine-young, fruity and quaffable. Gradually, the nuances and complexities of the wine aged in barrels started gripping me.
I was equally enamoured by the surroundings. Tasting Vernaccia di San Gimignano at Museo di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea ‘De Grada” is an unusual, annual experience. One can admire the beautiful paintings on the wall while sipping different samples from around 90 producers. What is exceptional is that the producers are closeted in small rooms of the Museum, each having famous paintings on the walls and with the rolling hills and semi-broken towers of San Gimignano visible in the background, it is another perfect spot for tasting and mingling with producers.
San Gimignano is a unique example of an Italian village of medieval era, with its famous towers and elegant palaces, with only historical remains of what was once its glorious part. However, 3 million visitors still come to this small town every year from Italy and overseas (The whole of India gets around 10 million visitors from overseas). It is difficult to walk through the old part of town (Centro).
Tasting at Sala Dante
Sala Dante Alighieri of the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall) in Piazza del Duomo is a palatial hall (Sala) decorated with frescos on all sides including the ceiling, making it an unusual, unique, mesmerizing venue for a tasting- so well utilized by the Consortium for the most unusual tasting every year. It may appear very bold to an out-of-town observer that 6 bottles of different Vernaccia wines were pitted against an equal number from other regions this time; usually they are compared with one varietal wine from other countries and taste them blind, to find similarities and differences.
The local producers are clear in their minds-through this exclusive tasting meant for Italian and International journalists they can demonstrate that their wines are not inferior to any of the guest wines. At any rate, wines at this Tasting were compatible on the 
palate and both the host and guest wines came out winners. I have attended each and every tasting since I first attended an Anteprima – even though it cuts heavily into the time available for regular tasting.
To make up for this lost time, I am quite participative at the wines tasted at the gala dinner served on the previous night where over 60 wines are available for tasting and I try to taste as many wines as possible. Tasting with Sommeliers and with the producers at the Anteprima are both a part of the ritual and I take time out even from the light Lunch to stay on course in this marathon tasting session that lasts one day.
This year’s tasting at Sala Dente was unique. The hosts had organised a total of 12 white wines as under:
1. Sicilia Grillo Laluci Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2016
2. Vernaccia di SG Riserva La Lastra 2015
3. Vernaccia di SG Riserva Teruzzi & Puthod 2015
4. Soave Classico Calvarino Pieropan 2015
5. Verdicchio Matelica Riserva Mirum La Monacesca 2015
6. Vernaccia di SG Riserva Sanice Cesani 2014
7. Custoza Superiore Ca' del Magro Monte del Fra 2015
8. Vernaccia di SG Riserva Albereta II Colombaio di Santa Chiara 2014
9. Collio Friulano Mario Schiopetto 2016
10. Vernaccia di SG Riserva Vigna a Solatio Casale di Falchini 2010
11. Vernaccia di SG Riserva Panizzi 2008
12. Greco di Tufo Vittorio 2007 Di Meo
Wines were served in pairs-each one containing a Vernaccia and a wine from other parts of Italy- Grillo (Sicily), Soave Classico (Veneto), Verdicchio Matelica (Marche), Custoza Superiore (Veneto), Friulano (Friuli- Venezia-Giulia)-but obviously served blind and the order was disclosed only after the tasting was complete.
The Tasting titled "White Wine and Its Lands” was curated by Danielle Cernilli-editor- in- chief of Doctor Wine, technically assisted by Riccardo 
Viscardi, a chemistry teacher with 23 years of experience in the wine industry. Together they had conceived to reflect on the vinification techniques of white wines, in particular the autolysis of yeasts to enhance the aromatic profile of the wine varietals.
Letizia Cesani, President of the Consorzio Della Denominazione San Gimignano, presided over the proceedings while Giacomo Bassi, the Mayor of the town welcomed the full house of over 60 journalists. Brandishing the 800 year history of the town he said, ‘It is the most important event for us during the last 100 year old history of winemaking of San Gimignano. For GDP of Sana Gimignano is not only important but also that of wine from a town known for its fine towers , medieval buildings and agronomic design of countryside, ‘ adding, ‘We are also stressed out during these days; hard work of our community is going to be judged by you’.
Cernilli emphasized that ‘white wines of Italy are neutral, unlike Sauvignon Blanc and do not contain pyrazines, but have esters. Autolysis of the yeasts is more important than the oxidative process. For white wines, terroir is even more important.’
It was for the first time that the proceedings were also translated into English through translators and therefore, it was possible to comprehend much better what was being said unlike last year when Rosemary George MW, an English journalist and an expert in Tuscan wines, was obliged to speak in Italian but with no translation.
‘Ich hab’ mein hertz in San Gimignano verloren’ (I have lost my heart in San Gimignano) described the town and wines of the city the first time I visited. It holds so true even today.
Anteprima Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2018
Video of Tasting at Sala Dante
Subhash Arora