Bordeaux Vintage 2015: Part 2- Analysis of Weather

“There was no need for extraction this year – it was pure infusion” Château Figeac

“2015 was the hottest year on record worldwide, even if not in Bordeaux, and brought peace and serenity to the winemakers”.   Château Haut Bailly

INTRODUCTION

Wine of each vintage is shaped and structured by the weather. Let’s look first at the meteorological conditions of the 2015 vintage pattern, starting with the winter 2014-15.  We went into Spring with the water table overflowing. This was good as we knew that during the summer it would take a considerable drought to cause hydric stress.  A full water table gives a comfortable feeling in preparation for the hot weather to come.

I have rarely read more varying reports from the different Châteaux.  Whatever one château said, somebody else said the opposite.  It was a cold winter – it was a warm winter!  It was a wet Spring – no, a dry one!  We had severe hydric stress – our vines did not suffer stress!  So whatever I say, somebody will disagree with.  I therefore state clearly that these are my own opinions and conclusions and I stand by them.

CRITERIA FOR GREAT WINE

The 5 criteria by Denis Dubourdieu (French winemaker and Professor of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, Decanter Man of the Year 2016, manager or co-manager at several properties in Bordeaux and consultant even at Château Cheval Blanc-editor) for making great wine have now been fully accepted by the vast majority of Bordeaux wine growers, wine makers and oenologists.  They have become part of the Bordeaux wine law.  Despite being very sick, Denis gave his annual conference very courageously on the quality of the 2015 vintage at Château d’Yquem during the En Primeurs. 

He has once again also very generously given me permission to use his report for my facts and figures and to quote from it at will.  I will start with one of his statements that encapsulate the 2015 vintage, “Let us not deny ourselves the pleasure of declaring 2015 an outstanding vintage in terms of both quality and quantity”.  He states that 3 of his criteria must be met to make good wine, 4 for very good wine, but all 5 to make great wine. 

This year he says that all 5 criteria necessary for making great red wine in Bordeaux were perfectly met.  Let us recall these conditions and see how they were fulfilled in 2015:

1. An early and rapid flowering and a good fecundation assuring a sufficient yield and the hope of a homogenous ripening.
2. Sufficient hydric stress at fruit-set to limit the growth of the young berries and determine their future tannic content.
3. Cessation of vegetative growth of the vine before colour change, imposed by limited hydric stress and therefore allowing all the goodness from the root to flow into the grapes and not unproductive growth.
4. Complete maturity of the grapes (sugar content among other factors) assured by the optimum functioning of the canopy (leaves) up to harvest time without further vegetative growth (point 3).
5. Good weather during vintage without dilution or rot, allowing full maturity of all grapes including late ripening varieties.

WEATHER IN 2015

One of the hottest summers on record, but with no stifling nights and no scorching heat - Château Ducru Beaucaillou

Apart from terrifying stress before the refreshing 7- 8 August rains the vintage was a pleasure to make- Château Latour

GRAPHIC OF WEATHER CONDITIONS 2014-2015

WINTER 2014–15 (December, January, February (Rain 227.2mm.  Sun 262.7 hours)

Denis Dubourdieu says it was an unremarkable winter, but many think that it was too mild.  We had no severe frosts, the severest being – 3.9°C on 17 March.  Two in November, none at all in December, Two again in January, three in February and one in March – total eight.  It was wet and mild until mid-January, apart from a dash of cold at year’s end, and filled the water table.  Then it was cold, but not severely so, until mid-February. Overall temperatures were close to the long term average.  There was no damage and the vine went into spring, raring to go.

It is an error to think that the weather during the winter and before bud-break is unimportant.  Firstly, the amount of rain is of paramount importance for refilling or not the water table.  A full water table means less risk of hydric stress during the hot summer weather.  A low water table and a dry winter will greatly increase the danger of drought. Secondly, a mild winter like that of 2014-15 will do little to clean up the vineyards and kill off the bugs and beasties, whilst some good, hard, dry frosts will do a great job.  The vine will suffer no real damage up to a frost of around -12°C or a little more and Bordeaux very rarely has a frost more severe than -8°C.  The famous 1956 frost reaching the temperature of - 15.6°C, 60 years ago still lives in our memory.

MARCH (Rain 38mm.  Sun 107.1 hours)

Before Spring came in, we had showers at the end of February to upset things.  However, March was then dryer than usual (when I say “usual” I refer to the long-term 30-year average), but also more gloomy and cloud covered and colder.  This somewhat delayed bud-break and in the great majority of the vineyards we did not see it until 9 - 10 April.  By 15th it was general for Merlot and by 19th for Cabernet (this was some 10 days later than that 30-year average).

APRIL (Rain 26.9mm.  Sun 197.1 hours)

A fine month and the vine caught up most, if not all, of its delay. As mentioned, in March we had bud-break a little late, but now growth was rapid.  It was the 4th warmest April for the last 65 years. The middle of the month temperatures even touched 28°C.  Sunshine was generous and very little rain fell.  A beautiful April that already filled the café terraces!  With these conditions bud-break was even and very regular.  Things looked good.

MAY (Rain 33.5mm.  Sun 201.7 hours)

The weather in May went up and down like a yo-yo.  Hot -cool – hot – cool.  This did no harm, provided enough moisture and the vine grew regularly at a fast rate.  The green shoots were evenly distributed and of moderate size.  The eagerly awaited flowering arrived towards the end of the month.  A critical stage! There was very little rain, the vine had now caught up and the flowering was spot-on the long term average. Château Margaux even said the flowering was 10 days early with a potential big crop.  It took place rapidly, under excellent, warm, dry conditions and produced a regular and homogenous fruit set.  Things looked splendid!

JUNE (Rain 43.8mm. Sun 300.8 hours)

Now came some hot weather.  It grew hot and summery before the arrival of summer on 20th June.  Like April it was the 4thwarmest June, but here for over 100 years.  The only hotter ones were 2005, 2003 and 1976.  The 30 minimum temperatures were almost 2.5°C above the long-term average and the maxima no less than 4°C warmer.  It was also the sunniest for 25 years with only 5 days of rain mid-month.  Perfect weather for flowering, which reached mid-flower around 5th and was right on the 20-year average. 

Thus we can see that the vine has not only caught up after the late bud-break, but has gained an advance.  This quick, even flowering and fruit set prepared the vine for even ripening, which is a joy and a relative rarity in Bordeaux.  Château Haut- Bailly said that conditions were ideal for flowering; bunch set and fruit closure.  All this helped early phenolic maturity despite the late bud-break.  The vine looked great!

Also there had been almost no coulure or millerandage.  Growth sped up with the fine, hot weather.

THE FIRST TWO CRITERIA HAVE BEEN MET.

1. QUICK, EVEN FLOWERING AND FRUIT SET AND GOOD FECUNDATION.
2. SUFFICIENT HYDRIC STRESS AT FRUIT SET, DUE TO THE VERY HOT JUNE, TO LIMIT THE GROWTH OF THE YOUNG BERRIES AND DETERMINE THEIR FUTURE TANNIC CONTENT.

JULY (Rain 35.3mm.  Sun 280.8 hours)

July continued to be hot - very hot.  Again the 4th hottest month of July in Bordeaux for over a century, but different years.  This time 2006, 2003 and 1893 (the earliest ever vintage with d’Yquem starting the vintage in August).  12 days of over 30°C, one even over 40°C at 40.8°C in Parempuyre.  An average maximum temperature over the 31 days of 29.1°C.The “canicule” was 30th June to 6th July. 

Unsurprisingly, in spite of the full water table in Spring, hydric stress was inevitable.  Depending upon the soils (especially gravel) and the age of the vines, the stress was critical in some vineyards. Château Ducru Beaucaillou said, “we did no ploughing or scraping of the soil to maintain impermeability of the surface crust and avoid moisture loss”.  Château Latour said, “only old vines and water-resistant soils (clay not gravel) avoided hydric stress.  Great stress at this point!

Also now this was the 5th month in a row with water deficit.  The great heat after the already very hot June slowed down phenological maturity, which was very important.  In some cases, the vine even shut down for a period.  This allowed the third criteria to be fulfilled.  However, on shallow soil some vines showed signs of interrupted physiological maturity.  Colour change began at the end of the month.  This was first seen on 22nd.

THE THIRD CRITERION HAS NOW BEEN MET

1. CESSATION OF VEGETATIVE GROWTH OF THE VINE BEFORE COLOUR CHANGE IMPOSED BY LIMITED HYDRIC STRESS AND THEREFORE ALLOWING ALL THE GOODNESS FROM THE ROOT TO FLOW INTO THE GRAPES AND NOT UNPRODUCTIVE GROWTH.

AUGUST (Rain 86.7mm.  Sun 251.6 hours)

The colour change had begun, but was slow because it was so dry.  Perfectly timed, some rain arrived 7th August and almost at once colour change speeded up.  Mid change was around 7th but now it was all finished by 17th.  Thus, 26 days from first to last, which is very long indeed (16 to mid-change and 10 to the end).  This was the first month over the last 6 to have over long-term average rainfall and this was very welcome indeed.  Hydric stress was relieved and this helped to even out colour change.  August was now cooler, but temperatures fluctuated.  There were heavy storms on 12- 13 August, but no damage done.

At this stage nights remained warm.  “Technically this created a low thermal amplitude during the first part of the ripening that slowed down the start of the accumulation of anthocyanins” – Denis Dubourdieu.  The last 10 days were hot and bright.  Paul Pontallier said, “August saved the vintage”.  Rains were very unevenly distributed and Saint Emilion and North Medoc had the most. Between regions there was up to 300mm of difference throughout Spring and Summer.  This caused berries to vary in size and also in some cases (Merlot) intensity of colour. The 2015 saved by the weather!

SEPTEMBER (Rain 35.4mm.  Sun 204.0 hours)

This was the first of two cool, sunny and dry months.  Grapes were wonderfully healthy and ripening correctly.  Growers felt that there was no hurry to pick.  It was dry, but not too hot.  Only Saint Estephe had a lot of rain.  It never got above 30°C so grapes did not hurry to ripen, but also they did not burn.  The sun, together with the cool nights, were just what was wanted to accumulate colour compounds, keep acidities up (which was very necessary as they were rather low) and finally to develop aromas.  Château Margaux said, “warm days and cool nights enabled richness in sugar to be balanced by good acidity, render tannins silkier and aromas more complex”. 

This weather also prevented rot and mildew and meant that the grapes remained healthy throughout the vintage period.  Sunny days and cool nights helped anthocyanins concentration and to synthesise both polyphenols and aromas.  M. Berrouet of Château Petrus said, “The vine needs respite and to rest at night.  Heat and sun degrade the precursors of aromas and polyphenols”.  Ripe, healthy and wonderful!

OCTOBER (Rain 51.8mm.  Sun 168.9 hours)

October was just as cool, sunny and dry and perfect for harvesting.  It not only allowed the Cabernet to reach optimum ripeness, but also helped the extractability of colouring polyphenols.  This is why the extractability, together with ripe grapes with thick skins, gave the wines of 2015 such deep, intense and vivid colours. 

Château Latour ended up with 97.1% Cabernet Sauvignon.  It was a very long vintage and many, including Château Petrus (14/09 – 06/10 then 18 days on skins) and Château Cheval Blanc, said that it was their longest harvest ever and Château Petrus counted 114 days between flowering and vintage.  They said, “personally we do not count the grapes as fruit until after colour change”. All over! Hurrah!  Super!

THE FOURTH AND FIFTH CRITERIA HAVE NOW BEEN FULLY MET.

1. COMPLETE MATURITY OF THE GRAPES ASSURED BY THE OPTIMUM FUNCTIONING OF THE CANOPY UP TO HARVEST TIME WITHOUT FURTHER VEGETATIVE GROWTH.
2. GOOD WEATHER DURING VINTAGE WITHOUT DILUTION OR ROT, ALLOWING FULL MATURITY OF ALL GRAPES INCLUDING LATE RIPENING VARIETIES.

All harvesting  - Red, Dry White and Sweet White, was finished by 22nd October.

DRY WHITE WINE

For dry white wine Denis says that to be successful, “sweet and fruity grapes in excellent condition are required, with sufficient acidity and skins that are not very tannic”. This is not difficult on correct soils and if the summer is not too hot and there is not too much hydric stress after colour change.  For this August 2015 was perfect.  Reasonable heat and more than average rainfall, but not so much that it restarted vegetative growth or diluted the grapes.  The wines are fragrant, mineral, fruity, concentrated and round.

SWEET WHITE WINE

Botrytis Cinerea is the vital factor for great sweet wines, particularly Sauternes and Barsac.  This year timely rains brought it on in waves and massively.  It came early and Château d’Yquem started on 3rd September.  This was the third earliest vintage in its history in spite of the latest budding in 25 years.  It caught up fast after rapid flowering and the early stopping of vegetative growth.  Rainfall up until the vintage was only 625mm – the least for 20 years.  Most growers had picked 80% by end September and most finished around mid-October.  The Botrytis was particularly fine and pure and untainted with grey or acid rot.  Acidities were magnificent thanks to the cool August. Finally, the vintage was both early and generous.  A double joy for sweet wine growers and lovers!  The wines are sumptuous, focused, pure, fresh, rich and elegant.

COMPARISONS

I dislike comparison, but everybody wants them and most growers are talking about 2005.  Others, less numerous, see similarities with 2009 and 2010.

CONCLUSION

As I said very clearly in the article on Structure and Composition, low acidity was the one major flaw of the vintage in the red wines.  Also perhaps variable berry size induced by the large variation in rainfalls.  However, without the August showers the berries would have been very small indeed leading to yields far too low for comfort. 

The hydric stress was the reason that malic acid was low.  Also, a very technical point, water stress also hindered the synthesis of isobutylmetoxypyrozine, which remained virtually undetectable.  Depending on sufficient August rain the berries were able to swell somewhat, although they remained small, and this fortunately did not dilute the sugar content due to the fact that all vegetative growth had stopped.  Whilst ripeness was total, phenolic potential varied largely between properties due to the varied extent of hydric stress in July and the differences in rainfall during the final ripening period. 

To conclude it was a highly successful vintage for all grape varieties ad all colours.  Château Nenin sums it all up in a nutshell, “complex, powerful, opulent, great concentration, depth and volume and infinite charm”.

This Article should be read in conjunction with the Article last week:

Bordeaux Vintage 2015: Analysis, Composition and Structure

John Salvi Master of Wine

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