|
 When I think of Staglin Family Vineyards in Rutherford, Napa Valley I visited a few years ago and met Shari Staglin, I don’t think of their Staglin Estate or Salus wines several of which I tasted during my visit one morning at the winery. I am reminded of the millions they have raised in charity through wine and musical concerts. Their generous spirit left an imprint on me forever. So when I saw the spritely Shari at Le Cirque a couple of days ago, my thoughts went to their philanthropic pursuits.
Thirty Years of Staglin Family Vineyards
Shari tells us that the family started the wine business exactly 30 years ago in 1985-‘Three days ago, it was exactly 30 years ago in 1985, she says. Reminiscing the meeting with the owner, she vividly recalls meeting the owner as rank outsiders. The owner whose children did not want to carry on with the business, wanted to sell to someone who would take good care of the vineyards and was not greedy about getting the top dollar through bids and counter-bids. The Staglins were able to convince him about their passion and the promise to look after the property to the best of their capabilities.
But 5 years after the purchase, their son Brandon was diagnosed with Schizophrenia, a mental disease. Despite all odds, the family was able to help him overcome the challenges and today after proper treatment he is their Director of Marketing Communications and is doing fine, says Shari. But they recognized the need for research to understand the root cause of the disease so that cure may be found. They started raising charity for Mental Health and later other causes and have raised over $200 million ( Rs. 1,367 crores!) so far, mainly through music concerts; Music Festival for Brain Health has become an annual feature on the Napa Valley map. Till date they have helped raise and donate around $800 million, she says matter-of-factly!
Salus for Charity
Average profit made on every bottle of Salus ’Second label’-is given away to charity. Although India gets a special price and she is not sure how long they can continue to suffer  losses, 100% of profits made of Salus are donated to charity-so you know the producer is not making any money when you drink a bottle of Salus Chardonnay retailing for around Rs.7400 in Mumbai and Delhi (that may not be the case with the importer Vishal Kadakia who imports the two variants. Listed at restaurants like Le Cirque, **** the wine sells well in Mumbai retail although it is also available through the Delhi distributor Mohan Bros in retail.
Italian Descent
It was surprising to know from her with a last name like Staglin that there is an Italian connection. Her husband’s family came fromCalabria in South Italy and that their family name was actually Stagliano. In fact, as an honour to the family, they have labeled their Sangiovese as Stagliano! Priced at $125 a bottle and available only at the winery, the 100% Sangiovese is a tribute to the Italian heritage, she says. Tuscan winemakers may insist that Sangiovese does not do very well outside Tuscany but the clones Staglin imported from Biondi Santi in Montalcino seem to have worked for them very well. In fact, it is a tribute to their winemaking team that they are able to produce such a high quality Sangiovese that is sold only at the cellar door. She also claims that they are the only producer in California growing the grape variety.
Tasting the Napa beauties
Salut (Italian,) Salud (Cheers), Salus- they have similar meanings and same root-Salus was the ancient Roman goddess of health and prosperity. So we could say Jai Ho (Cheers) to Salus!
Salus Estate Chardonnay 2012
This is full-bodied, pale golden colour wine, with bouquet of leman rinds, soft golden apples with hints of sweet vanilla, is full of concentration and has tropical flavours. Part malo-lactic fermentation has made the wine complex but it cries out for food from the first sip. Oak dominates the flavours without food but it has crisp acidity with hints of minerality. The fermentation in oak barriques and barrels (60% new, 40% old) and 10 month aging in barrels on the lees shows in the complex flavours-and texture-otherwise a very well balanced wine with good structure.
 The wine changes its character completely with food-the warm, creamy cheese croquettes prepared by the Chef at Le Cirque were a heavenly match with it. I had to steal an extra piece and pour myself extra wine that I do on rare occasions, to match the two and decided it was a golden match. To me it would also be a perfect match with chicken biryani, tandoori chicken and even fish with heavy white sauces. The wine is exceptionally long with each sip leaving a pleasant, mineral impression for a minute or more.
Salus Cabernet 2012
The 2012 was an excellent vintage and it shows in the wine although it was temporarily bruised travelling several countries and not fully rested yet. The dark ruby red, full- bodied wine is so perfumed that I could spend a long time simply nosing the floral aromas with a generous touch of red berry fruits and black cherries. The wine is very harmonious and the 15% alcohol is very well integrated. Flavours of dark plums, black current and dark cherries abound with a hint of coffee and dark chocolate. It’s full on the palate with persistent flavour. Long and juicy end makes you drink it faster than you ought to. It was heavenly with the prosciutto ham and the Parmigiano Reggiano /Grana Padano served by the restaurant- both a perfect match with the ham.
And this is not even the top wine of the Estate! But considering it retails for around Rs, 14,000 in Mumbai and Delhi, the $90 wine ought to do for a fine wine evening. The Real McCoy, the Staglin Estate Cabernet would set you back by $220 when bought at the winery-it’s not imported by Vishal Kadakia who had brought in a couple of Portuguese wines to taste-more about that another time.
Before hurrying out for the next appointment and leaving us with the pleasant task of finishing up the wine in the decanter, Shari stressed that profits from each bottle of Salus sold goes as charity for mental research and suddenly both the wines taste better-the more you drink the more you contribute to a good cause-the mental health research.
To this Napa Valley family estate making ‘Good wines for good causes’, I’d raise a toast and say
Cheers to Jai Ho for Cheers!
Subhash Arora |