 Every country makes some excellent wines even if the quality of most wines may be mediocre-one must not forget India. Some wines remind you of a memorable experience. Several wines are too expensive for the budget but I was fortunate enough to get the opportunity to taste them. It is keeping these factors in mind that I selected my list of favourite, rather memorable wines. Price has not been of consideration though I have listed them generally in the order of prices. Vintages might not be accurate as I may not have remembered them. It would be naïve to assume that I have included all the wines that deserved to be on my list; I am sure I have missed out a few.
1. Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey 1947 Sauternes
At an exclusive vertical tasting of the 100 years of old vintages at the guest house of the Premier Cru Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey, I found the '59 still young and more delicious but the '47 was a treat as it was the year of India's independence. I wanted to stand up, not only to salute the historic year but also because it was a delicious sweet wine. One can find still find value-for-money wines from this Chateau.
2. Chateau d'Yquem 1997 Sauternes
A vertical tasting of this First Growth has been a highlight at Vinoble, where I loved this vintage-another dark golden beauty, markedly different because of a warm and dry vintage. Slow but regular noble rot imparted nice and big complexity to the wine. It is many vintages rolled into one with nose having distinct orange notes. It's slightly masculine; density and slightly higher acidity impresses the palate. There is sculpture in their wines-only time liberates it. I always look forward to the changing notes.
3. Domaine Romanée Conti La Tâche 1959 Burgundy
Any wine from DRC with all Grand Cru vineyards is a treat to taste but the memory of a vertical tasting at World Wine Symposium in Italy last year still lingers on with the co-owner Aubert de Villaine conducting the historic tasting of La Tâche '59, '64, '79,'85,'99 and '05 . To me, the 1959 was the most enjoyable one- alive, fresh, elegant and harmonious like the violin and piano concerto at the venue.
4. Chateau Latour 1989 Pauillac
Though '90 was a better vintage and this wine from Bordeaux First Growth was not fully ready when I drank it, the fact that it was opened in my honour by my brother-in-law in Houston, made it taste very special. It does not matter that I was told by one of the ex-employees of the top winery later, that when the wine was released, it was priced at around $25 a bottle for the staff!
5. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1999 Pauillac
Although nowhere near the glorious 1982, this wine from the first growth chateau Baron Philippe de Rothschild is a good example of how a wine tastes depends on the company and food. Chatting with the visiting Managing Director Hugues Lechanoine at a dinner recently, the wine tasted decidedly better with bouquet full of exotic fruit notes, ripe tannins, great structure and balance and a long persistent end.
6. Henschke Hill of Grace 2004 Barossa
As an avid fan of Stephen and Prue Henschke, when I learnt about his special seminar at the Wine for Asia 2008, I visited and tasted this iconic wine. Perfumed aromas of plums, blackberries with herbs and spices in the background made this well structured wine, rich and complex on the palate, juicy and fleshy. It was elegant yet powerful wine with velvety tannins and excellent balance.
7. Harlan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon1999 Napa Valley
A Bordeaux blend really, this cult wine from the iconic Bill Harlan had me impressed already a few years ago. But last year when it was being poured by Bill himself at World Wine Symposium in Italy, it was magical. The wine was big and opulent yet had a grace about it; the tannins were supple, taste delicious and long lasting. Smooth wine with several layers of ripe fruit and a lot of depth.
8. Bodega Vega Sicilia Unico 2000 Ribera del Duero
Released 10 years after the harvest, this iconic wine made from Tempranillo blended with 5-15% Cabernet Sauvignon has become a reference point as one of Spain's finest wines. The opulent and complex wine served at a Delhi Wine Club dinner upset the importer as a member, otherwise an affluent wine connoisseur, walked in wearing a T-shirt and chappals but who immensely enjoyed the wine too.
9. Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Loronzo 1997 Piemonte
It is difficult to rate different vintages of this iconic producer who put Barbaresco on the world wine map. Gaja Barbaresco is an artisan and emotional wine from single vineyard, Sorí San Loronzo. I tasted this concentrated wine with black cherry and coffee flavour with mineral and spicy notes; was powerful and still astringent with lingering finish when I tasted at the winery. It has probably still not peaked.
10. Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1985 Tuscany
I have enjoyed several tastings of Sassicaia with Donna Priscilla, daughter of Marchesi Nicolo Incisa della Rocchetta at Vinitaly and PFV of which the legendry Tenuta San Guido is a member but the guided vertical tasting conducted personally by the Marchesi at Villa d'Este in 2011 with 8 vintages spanning over 4 decades- '77,'79.'82,'85, '95,'98 '00 and '08 was the pinnacle with 1985 being my favourite, even though '00 and '08 represent more modern, softer and fruitier style.
11. Egon Muller Eiswein 1998 Mosel
I was privileged to taste a range of 16 wines laid out by Egon Muller, owner of one of the top estates in Mosel, Germany, exclusively for me during a visit to his small winery a couple of years ago, including a Riesling Auslese Scharzhofberger Goldkapsel 2007 which has been reportedly auctioned for € 450. But exotic Eiswein 1998 he opened specially for me was enchanting: a complex, expressive wine with depth.
12. Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2002 Champagne
This vintage champagne of the czars and rappers has been impressive as I have found a few times but when served at a dinner at Hotel Imperial last November with Frederic Heidsieck-Global Export Director, the silky textured wine tasted even better, creamier with never-ending mousse of small beads, intense and delicate nose and flavours of honey, lightly toasted hazelnuts and citrus fruit with a tad bitter end.
13. Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal Ice-wine 2007 Ontario
It won't be too exaggerating to say that Inniskillin ice-wine brought Canada on the world map. The golden coloured glossy fizzy wine with generous mousse has fresh honey on the nose with tropical fruits like mango and lychee. The texture lovely and the mouth-coating sweetness with balanced acidity and a soft prickle from the bubbles is heavenly. The concentrated and rich wine has a very long end.
14. Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos de Mouches Premier Cru 2000 Burgundy
This family run winery makes a kaleidoscope of wines with over two thirds of the production being 1er cru and grand cru but I cannot forget the Clos de Mouches 2000 which my friend Frederic Drouhin presented to me in Mumbai during a PFV event since I had liked the wine very much; also these were one of the first vineyards his grandfather had bought. A lively, fruity and elegant wine with berries on the nose and interesting smoky flavour. Well rounded with silky texture and long finish.
15. Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Reserva 1983 Montalcino
Although I also tasted older vintages- '70 and '68 at a vertical tasting from the iconic producer Tenuta Greppo where a few bottles of 1888 and 1891 still adorn the library, the '83 was a real stunner. It was pure & elegant, full of a complex bouquet that was reminiscent of forest flowers and berries. But the after-taste was so long that I loved holding it in my gullet and enjoying the warmth, the length and the complexity. The '01 I had tasted with the octogenarian Franco Biondi Santi a couple of years earlier was comparatively still too young.
16. Joseph Phelps Insignia 2001 Napa Valley
I had the pleasure of tasting this sensational wine twice at the winery. The Powerful Bordeaux Blend also qualifies as a Cabernet. A classical, powerful Napa wine with a beautiful bouquet. Vibrant, violet colour with a complex seductive bouquet merging into the mouth-feel of the well-structured, luscious and harmonious wine with a smooth and silky texture, minerals and dark chocolate. A bold and beautiful wine that will age and seduce for decades.
17. Marchesi Antinori Tignanello 2004 Tuscany
I have selected this Super- Tuscan over many other more popular(and expensive ones with snob value, partly because one can find and afford to buy it in duty free shops and partly because it is the indigenous Sangiovese-based wine with only 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc to make it rounded, unlike the more highly regarded Solaia (Cabernet) or Ornellaia (Bordeaux blend). Expressive flavours with black cherries and sweet oak vanilla have a great class, elegance and fine tannins.
18. Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria Sicily
From Donnafugata to Dum Pukht this dessert wine is divine in most vintages. Whether you are reading a book, listening to fine music or are just in a pensive mood, this sweet wine from Sicily engages and envelops you. It showed an extra dimension with Double ka Meetha which tasted at Dum Pukht Restaurant at ITC Maurya, Delhi. Made from dried Zibibbo grapes, it is full of flavours of apricots, peaches and honey with a persistent taste.
19. Bodega Roda Cirsion 2003 Rioja
I could neither figure not cared to analyse why this opulent wine from Rioja was so expensive when I visited the winery, especially as it was made from a few select parcels of the same vineyards making their regular wines, but it was so opulent-full of juicy cherries, powerful, and balanced with silky tannins that we kept on drinking it without care. Later vintages have been more age-worthy but this was unique.
20. Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Napa Valley
A rich and medium-full bodied dark and inky wine with black delicious ripe fruits, like black cherries. Elegant hints of vanilla and oak accent with a full and persistent mouth-feel and long, savoury finish. Smooth and juicy tannins with velvety texture and good balance. Serious food wine that cellars well but can be drunk on its own too. Decent but expensive yet does not burn a hole in the pocket.
21. Miguel Torres Grans Muralles 2005 Conca de Barbera
One of the typical Spanish blends- a blend of Granacha, Mazuelo (Carignan) with a small percentage of Monastrell (Mourvedre)- the popular red grapes of South of France, I had this wine with Torres Sr. at a lunch a few years ago. Sweet vanilla on the nose, this harmonious wine has good structure and a spicy bite. Tannins have since mellowed down and the mineral end makes it slightly savoury.
22. Clos Erasmus 2006 Priorat
Although the credit for this wine ought to go to Rene Barbier of Clos Magador who has been responsible for the renaissance of Priorat and the terroir wines with Granacha grapes, my choice tips towards this wine as the US-based owner Daphne Glorian was tasting this beauty at Priorat last year. Lovely texture, delicate structure and alluring vibrant wine has vanilla and mineral flavors.
23. Carpené Malvolti Prosecco di Conegliano DOC Veneto
After visiting several wineries and tasting scores of Prosecco sparkling wines, this Brut bubbly (now DOCG) from Conegliano based winery impressed me vividly, because of the second fermentation in tanks in a cold room chilled to 4°C in order to keep the flavours and freshness. At a family wedding, I failed to convince guests that the exciting and elegant bubbly with green apply, citrus flavours and fresh acidity was a Prosecco and not champagne but gladly gave up, seeing happy faces dashing for refills.
24. Gaja Ca'marcanda Promis 2001 Tuscany
This blend with a majority of Merlot and Syrah as well as Sangiovese from its Brunello estate in Montalcino, makes a delicious juicy medium bodied entry level wine of which I can finish a bottle in goof company, with or without food, but this is a special wine for me because I was the first one to serve a Gaja wine in a banquet in India, making it historic-and people loved it too!
25. Kanonkop Paul Sauer- 2004 South Africa
I was going to make a presentation of South African wines at a wine show in Delhi in December, 2008, for which I requested the organizers to bring an iconic wine-and they hand carried Kanonkop Paul Sauer- 2004. A Bordeaux blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc was a medium-full bodied, elegant wine from the well-known Stellenbosch Estate and a star of the tasting that reminds me that South African wines can also be quite terroir driven.
26. Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Grand Cru La Moutonne 2001 Chablis
A visit to this Domaine in my favourite region a decade ago, took me to this small 6-acre vineyard called La Moutonne, the 8th site to get Grand Cru Classe recognition, albeit unofficially. Reminds me of Mouton Rothschild which wedged in as the fifth First Growth in 1973 after a lot of efforts. Fine texture, pure expressive bouquet, dry, crisp flavour with a long end makes it perfect for ageing for many years.
27. Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001 Veneto
There are several premier producers in Veneto making this meditation wine but I found this one particularly interesting because its juicy, clean, with good structure and well integrated alcohol with fruit flavours that linger on and length particularly enticing. A special double magnum (3 L) we served at a Delhi Wine Club dinner was sensuous, elegant and excellent with food.
28. Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2003 Tuscany
A visit to the premier winery of Tuscany owned by Marco and Lorenza Pallanti reminds me of an art piece at the winery, among others, by the UK-based Indian artist Anish Kapoor. Powerful, ripe and juicy wine from a hot vintage. Lovely concentration on the palate though firm tannins abound at the back palate. Dark cherry notes with spicy layer. It has peaked , but the 2007 is yet another great vintage following.
29. Stags Leap Wine Cellars Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Artemis from the winery famous for Judgment at Paris 1976 always impresses with its generous black cherry fruit and velvety texture with bouquet of black olives and black pepper. But at the New York Prime Restaurant in Miami where we drank it with a filet mignon, the guests kept on ordering more and drinking more, leaving with lingering memories.
30. Montes Alpha M 2006 Chile
Sipping a glass of Montes Alpha M 2006 during my flight to Santiago a couple of years ago had an emotional ring to it as Douglas Murray, a founding partner of Viña Montes had passed away a week earlier. Bordeaux blend with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, this was the first Chilean wine that broke the $50 price barrier over a decade ago.
31. Diadema Rosso IGT 2007 Tuscany
This Super-Tuscan red blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, merlot and Shiraz has been constantly gaining in popularity and recognition with the critics since I was presented a personalized bottle of 2007 vintage, with my name on the back label-as I entered their stand at ArezzoWine three years ago. Label using Swarovski crystals, makes it an expensive, gift wine, but it has been winning awards and accolades.
32. Cava Agusti Torelló Mata Kripta Gran Reserva Catalunya
Tasting at Alimentaria several years ago, I was so impressed with aruguably the finest cava in Spain that I instantly accepted an invite to visit the winery in Sant Sadurni d'Anoia near Barcelona and still vividly remember the way this barrel fermented, crisp and fruity bubbly which is bottled in an unusual torpedo shaped bottle with a round base. Made with the local grapes-Parellada, Macabeo and Xarello, it costs more than quality champagnes and yet is worth the extra price due to its finesse and uniqueness.
33. Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2006/07 Pessac-Léognan
One thinks of En Primeur as marketplace for the top red wines from Bordeaux. I was pleasantly surprised during my first En Primeur visit to this winery when I learnt that a few white wines also commanded that. A blend of 70-80% Sauvignon Blanc and the balance Semillon, it has a vibrant and aromatic nose of white cream with herbs in the background. Elegant style and finish, very expressive, with depth & length.
34. Ferrari Brut Spumante Trento DOC
Franciacorta may be the Italian region known for champagne- like sparkling wines, but it is this bubbly produced from Chardonnay by the Lunelli family from Trentino which historically introduced the process. With the grapes and the terroir it has all the ingredients of making delicious wines a collage of which I was able to taste at their winery.
35. Gulfi Nerojbleo Nero D'Avola 2006 Sicily
When Nerojbleo Nero D'Avola 2006 from Gulfi Estate won the ‘Best Red Wine' Trophy in the erstwhile Indian Wine Challenge in Mumbai, I was so intrigued that during my following trip to Sicily, I took a 500 km detour to visit the winery and meet the owner. Full and juicy on the mouth with cherry nose, its spicy notes and well-balanced flavours and acidity, make it a friendly wine for Indian food.
36. Chateau Musar White  2000 Lebanon
I was perplexed when one of the Hochar sons of the Lebanon-based founder presented me with a 2000 white at a tasting at Vinexpo and told me it would age and drink like a red. When I opened it a couple of years ago, I found the dark gold coloured full-body wine full of vanilla flavour, warm fruits but citric acidity, though slightly high in alcohol. Blended from relatively unknown local grapes Obaideh and Merwah, it was slightly rough and oxidized style, but full of character and complexity.
37. Malatinszky Kuria Villanyi Cabernet Franc 2006 Hungary
Malatinszky Kuria Winery in the village of Villanyi, an area getting well-known all over the world for its excellent Cabernet Franc varietals; the 2006 vintage would be ideal to celebrate a valentine's day dinner with, as I did in the company of the owner-winemaker, Csaba Malatinszky. Medium bodied, with ripe and evolved tannins, high but integrated alcohol (14.5%), slightly oaky, complex with good balance.
38. Giribaldi Cento Uve Lange DOC 2005 Piemonte
A small family-owned winery, Giribaldi Mario in Piemonte makes quality Barolo and Barbaresco but the wine that caught my eyes several years ago was the Cento Uve- made from 152 indigenous grape varieties grown on their property-though majority is Nebbiolo. With around 140 cases made annually, the medium, the spicy wine is not a commercial but interesting, unique wine for the cellar.
39. Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Kammerner Renner 2004 Kemptal-Austria
Here is a wine from an old historical Austrian monastery that shatters the myth about white wines not being normally age-worthy, including the Grüner Veltliner. Although the winery has '47 wines in the library, I enjoyed this wine made from grapes from the unofficial First Growth, 60 year old vineyards. Elegant, fruity and sexy wine with a very long and persistent after-taste and good potential for ageing.
40. Cascina Castlet Monferrato Rosso DOC 2007 Piemonte
An interesting wine that caught my eyes at this winery was a Chardonnay-labeled 'A Taj'. But I could not help exclaiming when the owner of Cascina Castlet in Costigliole showed me a couple of vine rows of an unspectacular but high resveratrol grape' Uvalino' grows only in her 5 acre land in the world. The 14.5% alc. medium-body age-worthy food wine with a spicy mouth-feel and the unique half bottles sell out fast perhaps snapped up by investors.
41. Benanti Pietramarina Etna Bianco DOC Sicily
This white wine from the active volcanic soil of Mt. Etna, made from Carricante grapes is truly unique and usually needs a few tastings before really appreciating it. Pietramarina has intense and persistent fruity aromas, is very minerally, dry and savoury wine with crisp acidity and apple flavours with an after- taste of almonds and spices
42. Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand
The undisputed king of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough demands an arm and a leg for sipping it too. Very big on the nose with intense gooseberries aromas. On the palate, it is very fruity, intense and crisp with the gooseberries and green peppers that produce a mouth-watering and sophisticated wine that you cannot forget, even while writing about it. However, a luxury product priced accordingly.
43. Bird in Hand Shiraz South Australia
I have been following this wine since the winery in South Australia was featured in Master Chef Australia 3 years ago. The deep red colour and aromas of ripe berries and crushed black peppers and cinnamon leaves a complex spicy mouthfeel. Silky, elegant and rich texture with complex flavours-and it availability in Indian retail at under Rs.3000 impresses me no end-it was a great match with Indian food at a recent wine dinner with Indian cuisine.
44. Rupert Rothschild Classique 2003 South Africa
If one wants to drink a good quality Bordeaux but with limited budget-this is the wine. With 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is elegant with soft tannins and loads of spices like Black pepper and coriander entrenched with layers of dark berry fruit. Well rounded wine with earthy overtones tasted even better in the winery. I love to order a glass of two of this wine wherever possible.
45. Casillero Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Chile
We served this mass - produced wine (2 million bottles) by the biggest wine company of Chile, Concha y Toro at a Delhi Wine Club dinner at the then Hotel Grand Hyatt. Everyone including me, loved the wine. I recorded later that this was the 'Best value for money wine in Delhi.' A few months later Decanter declared it the 'Best Value for money on the Planet.' Same goes for their Merlot too. Great as house wine.
46. Reveilo Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve India
The boutique Niphad winery, Vintage Wines took a pole position in 2006, making very good Cabernet Sauvignon- using very low yield grapes and ageing in oak. It went firmly ahead of others and still maintains the lead, its high price notwithstanding. Dark coloured full-bodied wine with generous berry fruits, dark chocolate and spices in the back layer. Smooth, complex with ripe tannins and persistent.
47. Zampa Soiree Brut Rosé 2010 India
I was zapped by this fresh bubbly every time I visit Vallee di Vin near Nashik. From this vintage on they use 100% Shiraz grape. It has nice salmon colour, engaging fresh and floral aromas with berries in the background; fruity flavours of exploding cherries and strawberries in your mouth. It is so fresh and crisp that it is difficult to keep the glass down. The dancing bubbles make your palate tingle with joy.
48. Fratelli Chardonnay 2011 India
During my visit to the winery last year, I tasted all their wines with the winemaker-I was also the first one to taste there top dog 'Sette' as it was being bottled. But I realized later that at every opportunity I was drinking and asking for more Chardonnay. Fully concentrated and characterized by apply and crispy, complex flavours from the low yielding crop, it salivates your mouth, yearning for more.
49. Sula Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2000 India
On my way back from one of my overseas trips a decade back, I had stopped over in Mumbai when told at a bar about a new wine from a Nashik winery called Sula. I ordered it instantly and was pleasantly surprised. My reaction was these guys are going to go places. Despite a drop in quality for a couple of vintages early on, it has now become the signature wine.
50. Grover Vineyards La Reserve India
Till a few years ago when there were only a few wineries in existence, this wine was the best Indian Red Wine for my palate. A blend of Cabernet and Shiraz, it has the characteristics of ripe fruits, chocolate, and coffee with an intense nose and long after-taste. Quite a few decent offerings are there now but this one will always be my First Love as far as Indian wines are concerned.
Subhash Arora
To read the article in the Upper Crust magazine click as below:
Introduction Wine no.1-6 Wine no.7-13 Wine no. 14-19 Wine no. 20-24 Wine no. 25-30 Wine no. 31-33 Wine no. 34-39 Wine no. 40-45Â Wine no. 46-50 Wines 1-50
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