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Posted: Friday, September 18 2009. 11:17

Un, Deux, Troi for Chateau Lagrange

Bruno Eynard, Directeur du Château of St.- Julien based Third Growth Chateau Lagrange in Bordeaux was in town this week to present three wines he thought might be interesting for the Indian market, writes Lara Ward of delWine, who was present at the tasting at The Aman Hotel .

The très hip Aman Resort Hotel on Lodhi Road in Delhi was the perfect spot chosen by Brindco. And whilst we’re on the subject of ‘three’, Chateau Lagrange was classified the third grown in 1855 along with 50 other Chateaux in the Bordeaux region. After a revision of the classification in 1973 a further 11 classified Chateaux came to the table.

Grand Cru Classé (Français for great growth), speaks for itself in more ways than one. What more needs to be said for the 1855 Classification and wines that have been produced on the very same land since the 19th century? ‘Not a lot’ I hear you say. And yes, there aren’t any surprises. Château Lagrange’s reputation most definitely proceeds itself as a Troisièmes Crus (selected in 1855 and remaining to this day), displaying all that is expected from a Saint-Julien, Médocproduced wine of this calibre.

Lets cut to the chase.

Tradition. This is the one word that sums up Château Lagrange. From the timeless history of the Château, to the literal hands-on work practice of picking, sorting and production, and age old techniques which have been tried and tested time and time again.

Ok, so there is more than one word, or ethos shall I say. Château Lagrange stands by its age old adage of ‘Quantity doesn’t always rhyme with quality’. In addition to the quality of their wines, this ethos can be displayed in how they choose to play with luxurious amount of land they are so very fortunate to have by Bordeaux standards-of which, I’ll explain a little bit more next.

The Estate: Saint-Julien, Médoc

Château Lagrange has the largest estate amongst all 1855 classified growths at Saint-Julien, with 115 hectares under vine. And planning is well under way to expand into their already existing and very spacious 157 hectares with the seeding of more vines to aid with an increase in production. An increase of Cabernet-Sauvignon most predominantly, and also an expansion of their white wine offering which is currently 4 hectares under vine made up of Sauvignon 60%, Sémillon 30% and Muscadelle 10%.

All of which, will aid greatly in expanding their present (and very modest) output of 20,000 bottles (on average) per year.

The Terroir

Located near the port of Beychevelle, Saint-Julien is well known for the quality of soil and its excellent drainage properties. A gravel covered terrace created by the main river of Bordeaux, the vines thrive underneath in the clay-limestone and large stony foundations. All conditions which are very well suited for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. Much of which Château Lagrange’s fortune has been built upon today.

The Wines

The most endearing Mr Bruno Eynard (General Manager since 2007 and prior to that Technical Manager since 1990) presented the trio of red wines selected from Château Lagrange for our tasting meet in Delhi.

Saint-Julien’s wines display power and concentration with a feminine elegance, all ever so typical of the region. According to www.bordeaux.com, wines produced in the Saint-Julien region ” have a powerful body with complex, elegant aromas.” Summing up exactly what we tasted today. My mouth waters in reflection.

And today’s tasting of wines cut to the chase and got down to business quickly. Rather than meandering down memory lane year by year, we took a hop to 2004, step to 2000 and a jump to 1995.

A Hop

You don’t have to go asking your bank manager for a loan just yet, as the Château Fiefs de Lagrange, 2004 has been priced at the more affordable end of the market. This wine displayed youth and vibrancy, yet ready drinkability, and of course good ageing potential. Château Fiefs did exactly what it said on the tin, and gave all that you’d expect from such a vintage from such a prestigious Château from this region.

…Step

We then jumped from one leap year to another landing with Château Lagrange, 2000 before us. The Cabernet Sauvignon (76%) and Merlot (24%) had the perfect ‘je nais sais quoi’ required leaving Petit Verdot in the dark for the first time in many years, thus the result of an outstanding year for seasonal conditions in Bordeaux and in turn production and quality for Château Lagrange.

…And a Jump

to the crème de la crème of today’s selection from Mr Eynard; the Château Lagrange, 1995. Produced from an assemblage of Cabernet Sauvignon 44%, Merlot 43%, and Petit Verdot 13%, it has fruity aromas of dark berries and mild oak maturity, balance, attack and juiciness on the palate, strong tannins and persistent richness. All that you would expect of a wine born in the year Jacques Chirac was being elected as president of France, which was almost 15 years ago.

And, a very warm thank you must be extended to Mr Bruno Eynard for his time spent in Delhi during the busiest time of year on the Bordeaux calendar – harvest.

If you are interested in learning more about Bordeaux’s 1855 Classification, visit http://tinyurl.com/1855classification.

       

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