Praise the Lord- Wine from Cape grapes
The first Governor of the Cape, Jan van Riebeeck, is credited with the birth of the South African wine industry. On 2 February 1659, he noted in his logbook 'Today – God be praised – wine was pressed for the first time from Cape grapes'.
By all accounts, the first wines from the Cape were almost undrinkable but, two centuries later, a sweet wine from Constantia was so highly-sought after it commanded prices almost on a par with the world's most expensive wine of that time, Tokaj from Hungary. It also featured in the novels of Charles Dickens and Jane Austen among others, and was supposedly the favourite tipple of Napoleon Bonaparte.
A facsimile of this wine is still made today on the farm that gave it birth almost 250 years ago. Vin de Constance from Klein Constantia has contributed greatly to South Africa's wine distinction but visitors intent on pleasuring their palate while visiting the country will discover many, many more vinous gems.
The Big Ol' KWV
The industry's modern day fortune has been largely shaped by the Ko-operatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging ( Co-operative Winegrowers Association), formed in 1918 to 'control the sale and disposal of products of its members in such a way that they will always be assured of adequate income'.
KWV was given tremendous power by various pieces of legislation, including the right to fix the prices of both distilling and beverage wine; approve all wine purchases between producers and merchants (producers were prohibited from selling direct); set quotas for plantings and production; and control the importation, propagation and distribution of vine cuttings.
Only 74 years later, starting in 1992 with the abolishment of the quota system, were these rights were systematically repealed and the KWV finally converted to a private company in 1997 transferring its regulatory and administrative functions to the Wine Industry Trust.
To the detriment of the industry but benefit of its members, the KWV occasionally acted irresponsibly. For example, its annual price increases regularly exceeded both the inflation rate and the market's ability to sustain growth. It also sacrificed free market principles to favour a few, politically well-connected businesses. Consequently, market penetration outside the growing areas never reached its full potential; in wine drinking areas its image was compromised by cheap sales to labourers; and business efficiency was lost to structural game playing.
Several individuals, one being Frans Malan of Simonsig, baulked at the KWV's stranglehold and continually tested its reach by ignoring its regulations. For example, he attempted to make botrytis wine when its production was prohibited. Other mavericks included Sydney Back (Backsberg), Spatz Sperling (Delheim) and maker of the Cape's first Bordeaux blend, Billy Hofmeyr (Welgemeend).
Less than 30 years ago, the KWV, the merchants and their brands were the face of the industry. Today, smaller, privately-owned labels set the pace to generate the consumer interest vital to a thriving industry. Nearly half of all producers crush less than 100 tons, evidence of the importance of micro-wineries and garagistes.
Post Apartheid South Africa
The demise of Apartheid, which gained significant momentum with Nelson Mandela's release from prison in 1990, benefited South Africa's wine industry enormously and, by the mid-1990s, Cape wines were found on retail shelves and restaurant tables worldwide. The most important size-wise were in Europe, thanks largely to the historical and cultural links South Africa shared with countries like Germany, Holland and Great Britain. In fact, by the early 2000s, South African wines accounted for a very respectable 10% of the United Kingdom's wine imports.
During the boom period, producers with high quality reputations at home – Meerlust, Rustenberg, Klein Constantia, Hamilton Russell Vineyards and Thelema to name but a few – were joined by others on the international stage, and – almost as one – the country's winemakers strove to, and succeeded in, lifting the overall quality of the country's wines.
Convinced of its potential, foreigners too looked to the Cape and, in the main, one of its premium districts, Stellenbosch. Here, Italy's Giulio Bertand acquired Morgenster, France's Anne Contreau bought Morgenhof, her countrymen Alain Mouix, Bruno Prats and Hubert de Boüard, and Mme de Lencquesaing respectively established Ingwe, invested in Anwilka, and built up Glenelly.
Even the Australians are making wine in South Africa: in 2006 Yalumba bought shares in The Winery of Good Hope.
This recognition of South Africa's wine potential, coupled with the fact that so many of the country's winemakers are 4th, 5th and even 6th generation farmers, ensures that it is an industry that has great respect for its heritage, but is not scared to embrace change and seek opportunities beyond its borders. South Africa is where yesterday meets tomorrow.
Terroir of South Africa
South Africa's 102 000 hectares of vines are governed by one of the most detailed Wine of Origin schemes in the wine-growing world. The largest production areas defined by this scheme are 'geographical units' or GUs (the Western Cape GU, Northern Cape GU and KwaZulu-Natal GU); others are regions (Breede River Valley, Coastal, Klein Karoo, Olifants River and Boberg), districts such as Paarl, Stellenbosch and Walker Bay- a total of 22 and the smallest, wards such as Constantia, Franschhoek and Durbanville- a total of 59.
Simply put, GUs are broken down into regions, which are broken down into districts, and these into wards. However, idiosyncratically, not all districts are located within a region, and not all districts contain wards, nor do all wards belong to a district or region.
When it comes to reflecting origin on the label, most producers prefer to state the smallest possible designation. In order to do so, 75% (85% for wines for export) of the grapes used to make the wine must be grown in that ward or district. If not, the producer must revert to the larger designation.
Recently, legislation was amended to introduce a far smaller terroir unit than those explained above – single vineyards. Legislation promulgated in 2005 makes provision for a contiguous terroir of up to 6 hectares to be registered as a single vineyard, similar to the French clos.
Additional terroir-defined legislation is expected soon. This – which might lead to the term 'terroir specific wine' – will be based on a multi-disciplinary programme at the ARC Infruitec-Nietvoorbij Institute of Viticulture & Oenology, and the University of Stellenbosch. The 10-year old programme identifies what constitutes terroir and its effect on grape quality and style.
New terroirs
Importantly, winegrowers have realised that existing areas might not be the only ones suitable for quality grapes and so, there's a strong drive to find new terroirs. Here, a question mark hangs over the suitability of the newly-proclaimed KwaZulu-Natal GU as a production zone for quality wine. Others welcomed with more enthusiasm include, for white grapes, Bamboesbaai (Olifants River GU) and the district of Cape Agulhas. At the same time, there's a growing recognition for southern Rhône-based blends from the long-established wine-growing district of Swartland, not an area previously acknowledged as producing high quality wines.
Important Regions of South Africa
Here are some of the important regions of South Afarica in alphabetical order.
Cape Point: Located on the western slopes of the Cape Peninsula, cool climate. Acclaimed for its white wines, notably sauvignon blanc and semillon. The oft-awarded Cape Point Vineyards is the only winery here.
Constantia: Comprises vineyards on western flank of the Cape Peninsula, benefits from cooling sea breezes during summer. Whites lead the reds, but these are making great quality leaps. Try wines from Steenberg, Klein Constantia, Groot Constantia and Constantia Uitsig.
Darling: Inland area yet its higher-lying wards, like Groenekloof, can be very cool. Sauvignon blanc long its star performer but showing promise with reds such as shiraz. Look out for Groote Post and the blockbusters from Cloof.
Durbanville: Reputable merlot and sauvignon inland area with cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and Pinotage playing a greater role. De Grendel and Durbanville Hills are amongst the quality producers here.
Elgin: Fashionable – for a reason. Inland yet high vineyards yield dazzling whites, elegant reds from producers like Iona and Paul Cluver.
Elim: Maritime influence the key in this promising, tiny ward located within a stone's through from Africa's most southerly point. Try Agulhas Wines and Black Oyster Catcher.
Klein Karoo: Dry, inland, recognised for its 'ports' which rival the Portugese. Quality producers include Axehill, Boplaas and De Krans.
Paarl: Predominantly warm but with sufficient mesoclimates, soils and aspects to succeed with a wide variety of grapes. Shiraz, chenin blanc and viognier among its rising stars. Fairview, Ridgeback and Rupert & Rothschild are just three of a phalanx of good producers.
Philadelphia: Inland, only just. Cool sea breezes yielding firmly structured yet appealing cabernet sauvignons, merlots and blends. There are relatively few producers here: try Capaia and Havana Hills.
Robertson: Inland, flattish. Historically focused on white wines; now having greater success with red varieties but some stand-out sauvignon blancs and chardonnays can still be found. This is home to Springfield, Graham Beck and the organic producer, Bon Cap.
Stellenbosch: Arguably, Stellenbosch is to South Africa what Bordeaux is to France. Inland area with many coolish vineyard sites, the valley floor's warm summers moderated by cooling sea breezes from the Ocean some 10kms away. Produces many classy whites and reds, and its quality producers too many to mention but try Rustenberg, Simonsig, Warwick, Waterford, Cordoba, De Trafford, Jordan, Meerlust and Morgenster.
Swartland: Warm, inland area increasingly recognised for its ability to produce handsome and forthright Rhône influenced reds and whites. Seek out examples from Lammershoek, Black Rock (The Winery of Good Hope) and Sadie Family.
Walker Bay: Maritime area, excellent pinot noir and chardonnay country. Increasingly impressing with pinotage, sauvignon blanc and shiraz. Among the stars are Hamilton Russell, Bouchard Finlayson and Newton-Johnson.
Grapes of South Africa
South Africa has some 102 000 hectares under, mostly French, vines. The top five most planted white and reds grapes are chenin blanc, colombard, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and muscat d'Alexandria; and cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot, pinotage and cinsaut respectively.
Today, new white grape plantings are outstripping red. Vines on the rise in the past 10 years include chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot and pinotage. Shiraz is currently the most fashionable red grape while viognier is just one of the 'cool' whites. The vine being ripped out more than any other is chenin blanc, but it is still the most widely planted variety.
Vines and Virus
It is important to note that the proportion of very young vines is declining. In 2006, some 12.5% were under 4 years, roughly 42% were between 4-10 years, and 16.5% older than 20 years of age. It is widely recognised by the industry, that the older its vines, the better quality wines it will make. If, and only if the leaf roll virus that has plagued its vineyards for many years can be checked.
By and large, prestige wines from South Africa have historically been red, with the exception of the sweet Vin de Constance by Klein Constantia that was supposedly the favourite tipple of Napoleon Bonaparte. Today, white blends are taking centre stage. These appear to fall into two main styles: Bordeaux-influenced white and a Rhône-led example typically combining viognier with chenin and chardonnay, and even Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Leading the charge on the sauvignon front include producers Vergelegen, Groote Post, Cape Point, Ingwe and Steenberg. Rhône protagonists include Sadie Family Wines, De Grendel, Rustenberg, Scali, Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards and Solms-Delta.
When it comes to red wines, few wineries are still flying the flag for Pinotage (a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut originating in South Africa in the 1920s). Stalwarts like Kanonkop, Beyerskloof, L'Avenir and others continue to make excellent examples but there is a sense that focusing on red blends (Bordeaux, Rhône or even Bordeaux-Rhône) and single variety Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings, is the more market-savvy approach. And, a handful of producers are trying their luck with nebbiolo and sangiovese!
Vintages to Watch
South African vintages are not nearly as variable as those in the northern hemisphere, but there are years that are recognised as better for some varieties ahead of others:
2007 – good sauvignon, cabernet, shiraz
2006 – best white wine vintage in a decade
2005 – average on all accounts
2004 – seek out chardonnay, merlot, shiraz
2003 – excellent year, particularly reds
2002 – patchy
2001 – excellent red vintage
2000 – cherry pick reds
1999 – early drinking reds, unexciting whites
1998 – excellent red vintage
A similar article has also been published by her in SlowFood, Italy
Cathy van Zyl
 Cathy is a South African Master of Wine , wine expert. In late 2005 she become the country's first Master of Wine to have qualified from within South Africa, as opposed to studying for the prestigious qualification abroad. She judges at various venues - including the Fairbairn Capital Trophy Wine Show and the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year Award and tastes wines for the Platter Guide. She is a manager for the website www.grapes.co.za where she also has her own blog. Cathy may be contacted at cathy@iafrica.com
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