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Les 5 (Cinq) is a group of five family owned wineries, each belonging
to a different region. Château Branaire- Ducru (Saint Julien), Château
Canon la Gaffelière (Saint Emilion), Château Gazin (Pomerol),
Château Pontet-Canet (Pauillac), Château Smith Haut Lafitte
(Pessac Léognan) are The Five that have an informal holy alliance.
Following a tasting of the Union des Grands Crus, these five decided
to form a small group of their own, one from each appellation and thus
was born Les 5. They travel together to various countries doing the tasting
of their Chateau and second wines. In 2005 a similar tasting was conducted
in Shangri-la and was successful enough for an encore this year.
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte
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| Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte |
Florence Cathiard, wife of the owner Daniel led the tasting with Les
Hauts de Smith Blanc 2003, the 2nd wine of her Chateau, followed by Château
Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2000, top wine of the Chateau. The only one of
the alliance producing white wine, it demonstrated how the terroir can
make a unique wine from Sauvignon Blanc which varies from 90-95%, the
balance being Sauvignon Gris and/or Semillon, the typical white wine grapes
of Graves.
The full body, concentration and excellent mouth feel well compensated
for the subdued freshness and acidity, especially the 2000 white was exceptionally
minerally and complex- bordering on strong oaky flavours.
The two reds that followed were similar in their classification and vintage.
The 2000 chateau wine served decanted was full-bodied with rounded tannins
and rather fresh and crispy finish- an excellent food wine that!
Chateau Branaire – Ducru
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| Château Branaire |
Travelling North from Pessac Léognan, traversing through the city
of Bordeaux and crossing Margaux is the appellation of St Julien on the
left Bank of Gironde. The fourth growth Cru Classe owned by the perfectionist,
Patrick Maroteaux who convinced his father in law, a sugar baron to buy
it in 1988 was able to turn it around. Results were obvious in the glass.
The chateau benefits from the fact perhaps, that the terroir of St Julien
with 1000 hA vineyards has 85% of them under 1855 classification. The
gravelly soil which is very good for the aging of Cabernet wines is also
the reason why the estate produces mostly Cabernets.
Not as concentrated but quite tannic, the second wine, Ch. Duluc is full
of berry fruit flavours with a slight spicy touch. It could pare well
with mushrooms, and slightly spicy food. Although 2002 is already drinkable,
the tannins will soften in the next 2-3 years.
The Chateau wine of 2002 vintage with more Merlot, than the 2nd wine
will nevertheless age longer. It was more concentrated, quite soft with
smoother texture and approachable even now. Again, it would be great match
for steaks, mutton chops and keema dishes.
Chateau Pontet Canet
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| Château Pontet-Canet |
This 5th Grand Cru producing neighbour of Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac
produces wines that are appraised higher than the appellation would indicate.
Bought by Guy Tesseron, a family of growers, distillers and blenders from
Cognac in 1975, who completed renovated it and it is being run by his
son Alfred.
He offered two reds- the 2nd wine, Les haut de Pontet Canet and the real
McCoy, both of the same vintage 1999 which ‘is a good wine for the
amateurs’, explained Alfred. Cabernet is also believed to be the
perfect cepage for Pauillac.
Alfred took pain to explain that the second wine was made from the younger
vines and otherwise the production process was exactly the same. Every
plant in the estate will produce the Chateau wine one day-depending on
its age. When the old vine dies, all grapes from the replaced young vine
are used for Les Haut. Average age of a vine that gives grapes for the
chateau wines is 40 years.
< This explanation by Alfred should have a message for the Indian
producers who believe they have the best wines in the very first year
of harvest.>
Chateau Canon La Gaffelière
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| Château Canon-la Gaffelière |
From Pauillac we crossed over to the right bank entering the prestigious
St. Emilion where we tasted wines from this Grand Cru Chateau Count Stephan
Von Neipperg, whose family came initially from Austria. The count is a
part of Franconian aristocracy with political and agricultural roots.
We visited both his vineyards-the first one being Clos de l’Oretoire.
The Merlot based (95%) wine with 5% Cabernet Franc was from the hot vintage
of 2003-‘American vintage’ as Stephan calls it. It was a very
well rounded, seductive and opulent wine- certainly one of my favourites
in this visit. It was a typical Merlot based, excellent St. Emilion wine
with a long and persistent after taste too.
Chateau Canon La Gaffelière, the Grand Cru Classe Chateau, also
owned by Stephan is not predominantly heavy on Merlot as l’Oretoire
(50%) and the spiciness of their wines are extracted from the Cabernet
Franc (45%), the other popular varietal from this region with ever-increasing
recognition. Merlot has given the smooth lusciousness whereas the Cabernet
has given enough complexity to make it one of the best wines tasted today.
The 2002 vintage on offer was not the best vintage in these parts, yet
the wine was quite harmonious.
Chateau Gazin
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| Château Gazin |
Pomerol, the land of Le Pin and Chateau Pétrus was represented
by the neighbouring Chateau Gazin, the last stop on our visit. Nicolas
de Baillencourt, the padrone, took the group of about 70 persons (about
10 had left by this time) enjoying tasting and sipping wines in the Long
Champ roof top of Hotel Taj Mahal with a clear view of the changing-by-the-minute
landscape of the city, through his second wine L’Hospitalet de Gazin.
Merlot being the top grape of the region (lack of Sidekick’s hero’s
knowledge of quality Bordeaux wines produced with Merlot as the foundation
notwithstanding), the wines are very luscious, voluptuous and elegant
with an excellent mouthfeel. L’Hospitalet de Gazin, the second wine
of the Chateau was at best very good. The 2004 has perhaps not blossomed
fully and will need a year or two in the cellar to get its best.
The Chateau wine of 1999 vintage, on the other hand was excellent. The
same blend as the second wine – Merlot 90%, Cab Sauv 7% and Cabernet
Franc 3%, has nevertheless given an outstanding wine, helped by an excellent
vintage. Wine is slightly spicy, flavour full of ripe black cherry fruit
and complex after taste.
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