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Church now Commenda
dell' Ordine
De Malta |
Moreover, it had fruit flavours, concentrated but not
overly ripe, and the acidity was fresh but too much
and the tannins firm. The wine's fruit character was
fresh and lively bright enough to pass as modern Chianti,
but the depth texture and taste across the palate were
the classic style. Now it has been renamed as the Chianti
Classico. Balifico is now the Super Tuscan instead.
Volpaia is preserving the traditional style of making
Chiantis Classicos too. But Giovanna does get the famous
Italian wine consultant Richard Cotarella to help her
team.
The Vin Santo is the Tuscan jewel
which continues to shine in her portfolio as well. Although
made with the classic Tuscan Trebbiano and Chianti Malvasia,
the grape bunches are hung up to dry on steel chains
instead of being spread out on the usual metal grids
thus avoiding any risk of mould. (Badia a Coltibuono,
another beautiful winery in an old abbey also uses this
traditional method of drying) This limited production
requires a very lengthy process to mature, as the wine
is aged in the traditional sealed casks and left to
rest in glass for up to eight years.
Cookery classes focus on old Tuscan cuisine:
In the oldest part of the village which is still protected
by the castle walls, she has created a modern kitchen,
with tasting and dining rooms, where Giovanna holds
cooking classes. They include cooking demonstration,
lessons on combining wine and food and Italian menus
and how to serve. Special attention is paid to Tuscan
food.
If one thing they are not doing perhaps, is holding
the traditional prices. At € 140 a head, it may
not reflect the old Tuscany, even though the dishes
cooked and wine tastings which cost normally €
12-22 are included along with a few other goodies.
Premium quality olive oil you can relish
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Giovanna Stianti Mascheroni and
old Sardinian grinding
stones |
Just as in the 11th century, the entire village is
intimately involved in the production of wine and olive
oil in one way or the other. Olives from about 5000
trees in the 12 h/A olive garden are handpicked when
they are just turning black from green. Tuscan olives
are small in size, informs Giovanna. Grinding is done
by using stones from Sardegna-same stones were used
by Romans centuries ago, citing another example of preserving
the tradition.
Extraction, removal of water, soil cleaning, filtration
are all carried out in very simplistic yet effective
methods. The old terracotta storage pots known as orcia
have been replaced by stainless tanks stored in air
conditioned room though.
Again the price tag of €30 for a half-liter bottle
of Extra Virgin oil may be fit for the pocket of the
kings but is certainly fit for the palate. 'It is extremely
expensive to make this quality due to high labour costs,'
admits Giovanna, adding, 'we have no problem getting
rid of our stocks of 20,000 bottles.' Assumedly, USA
is full of fans of her olive oil.
Whether it is wine, olive oil, agriturismo, cooking
classes or the osteria, dishing out Tuscan specialties
, or keeping the old village quaint , hiding all the
equipment inside the old and beautiful, antiquated walls,
Giovanna Stianti Mascheroni is doing an excellent job
of preserving the Tuscan tradition. Castello di Volpaia
should be on the must-visit for people who love the
charm of old world, wine, art and architecture.
Subhash Arora
September 19, 2007
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