In the category of unpronounceable wines, Germany and Italy face a tough competitor: Austria's Gruner Veltliner, writes Chris Sherman in The Providence Journal.

It looks like a jawbreaker, but Gruner Veltliner goes down smoothly, a distinct refreshing white wine that can challenge its neighbours' wines for a place in the fridge or with a rich dinner. And the pronunciation isn't that hard, five syllables that sound just like you would expect. You could say "GruVe," but that's not truly groovy.

Do master it. Gruner Veltliner is the signature wine of Austria, leading that country's return to American shelves and wine lists and accompanying new menus of Central European delicacies.

It's a fabulous grass-green wine, rich and brisk at the same time, a new flavour in whites at affordable prices (and sometimes in 1-litre bottles). And its great aromas and fruit, pepper and spicy flavors have a magical ability to match all kinds of food.

Beware confusions. This wine is from Austria, not Australia. Forget Matilda, just waltz and think Edelweiss. Hold the Julie Andrews' image: Crisp breezes, wildflower meadows and stony mountains are appropriate.

Austria's wines are floral, earthy and crisp as a mountain rain, with a flinty minerality and a tiny touch of sweetness. They are decidedly not German.

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