UK Prime Minister Tony Blair has snubbed Gallic pride and risked further straining his relationship with President Jacques Chirac by turning his nose up at a series of personal gifts of finest French wine.
Four times in the past year Chirac, who has clashed with Blair over issues ranging from the Iraq war to the proposed European constitution, sent wine to Downing Street.
On each occasion, Blair, a keen connoisseur of wine, turned down the chance to acquire the bottles. According to the Cabinet Office, the four consignments of wine are "held by the Prime Minister's office". Downing Street refused to discuss the type or vintage of the wine or to say what would happen to it.
One explanation might be personal. Blair and Chirac have had ferocious clashes in the past at summits, particularly when France blocked British attempts to reform European farm subsidies.
Another explanation could be aesthetic. The Prime Minister loves full-bodied red wine, but is a Chianti rather than a Bordeaux or Burgundy man.
There could be another reason altogether: cost. When Chirac sent a half case of wine to Blair three years ago as a 50th birthday present, Whitehall rules meant it set the Prime Minister back more than £1,000, because the 1989 Chateau Mouton Rothschild was valued at £195 a bottle.
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