Finally, someone has bust the great gewurtztraminer myth, which has been responsible for many a wine pairing with North Indian dishes going awry. In her information-rich Nat Decants Wine Newsletter of June 9, Natalie MacLean writes:

"The grape gewürztraminer (guh-vertz-tra-meener) comes from the German word meaning 'perfumed,' but it's often mistakenly translated as 'spiced.' This is why it has become the default wine for any spicy dish. Personally, I don't think it deserves such a wide reputation, as the dry versions are too austere for some spicy dishes that cry out for a touch of sweetness and the wine's assertive aromas of rose petals and lychee nuts are not to everyone's taste."

Trust us, Ms Maclean, a Gewurtz is the worst match for North Indian or Sichuan dishes. A dry or off-dry Riesling is just right. We believe that the myth arose from certain wine writers discovering that Thai curries got on well with a Gewurtz and then assuming that all 'Oriental' food must be behaving in a similar way, ignoring the subtle differences in spicing and cooking styles. To subscribe, go to www.nataliemaclean.com.