| Dan
Berger, Editor-in-Chief of Appellation America is a
stronger opponent of big, powerful and 'huge' alcohol
wines than he is of the big, oaky wines. More alcohol
a wine has, the less acidity it usually has. 'High-alcohol
wines need more acid and a lower pH to balance the "sweet"
taste of the alcohol. But with high-alcohol wines, we
almost always get a higher pH, not a lower one,' he
feels.
'This means that the consumer has to wade through aromas
and flavours of alcohol that are less complex than the
more minerally, earth-bound, herb-laced wines that are
more a reflection of their soil than they are of the
hand of man, and trees.' Thus this sameness between
two big wines that are made from differing varietals
makes them similar to one another and far more simplistic.
Darrel Corti runs a family store in Sacramento, California
with a wide selection of wines, especially Italian.
Considered to be an authority in California about Italian
wine and food, he likes his wines tasty and balanced,
and he wants to drink them with food. And he is adamant
about wines that he believes are way too high in alcohol.
Darrel has decided to do something about it. He's ordered
his staff to not taste wines whose stated alcohol levels
are over 14.5 percent; and he has stopped selling wines
with higher level of alcohol. 'My idea of a really good
bottle of wine is that two people finish the bottle
and wish there was just a little bit more. Some of these
wines with high levels of alcohol-you can't finish the
bottle. You don't want to finish the bottle, 'he says.
'You feel tired drinking these wines.'
'At one time Bordeaux wines used to be 12.5 to 13 percent
in a great vintage, and now they're well over 13 or
14. It doesn't make them better wines, just different.
But I would like them to behave like they're supposed
to behave,' he says.
Gerry, Dan and Darrel (I would like to add my name
in the P.S.) do not pay much attention to what Robert
Parker or Wine Spectator say.
'He's (Robert Parker ) the one who's caused all of
this problem…you have someone who actually creates
the market, but in the old days it used to be the king
of France who created the market for wines. When he
gives a wine 100 points, or a 98, 95, or 93 …
other wineries are going to imitate them. Wineries are
noted for following the trend so they can sell wines,
'says Corti.
In India, we are at the borderline. Most wines fluctuate
between 13-14%, at least the labels so indicate. This
is also the reason why the grapes which are over-ripe
due to the summer heat give more sweetness to the wines
and less acidity. But with temperatures going up gradually,
winemakers will need to have a bigger responsibility
to keep the alcohol levels under check, especially the
Zins and Cabernets.
Going back to the Ambassador's residence that night,
it was good to taste the ten, knowing that the alcohol
level of the wines was under check - even their Bordeaux
style blend with their signature grape, Tannat. That
they are as or more reasonably priced than the Chilean
or Argentine counterparts, might even give them an edge
for those who appreciate the concept of good balance,
structure and the flavour in wine and like to budget
what they want to spend on wine.
Here is the list of ten wines tasted. Alcohol content
of each wine is mentioned in the end as a percentage:
1. Cuna de Piedra Chardonnay, 2004, Los Cerros de
San Juan, 13.0%
2. RPF Chardonnay, 2004, Pisano, 13.2%
3. Del Pedregal Particular Tannat Merlot, 2005 H.N.
Stagnari S.A., 13.5%
4. Don Pascual Shiraz Tannat Reserve, 2005, Establecimiento
Juanicó , 13.0%
5. Adagio Espressivo, 2004, Juan Toscanini e
Hijos, 13.8%
6. Catmayor Cabernet Franc, 2004, Castillo Viejo,
13.5%
7. Don Adelio Ariano Tannat Cabernet Franc, 2004, Ariano
Hnos. S.A., 13.0%
8. Tannat del Museo Reserva, 2003 Santa Rosa,
12.0%
9. 1752, 2003, Vinos Finos Juan Carrau, 13.5%
10. Reserva del Virrey Malbec Roble, 2002, Dante
Irurtia, 13.5%
Subhash Arora
August 16, 2007
Page
1 2 |
