| Vincenzo
Pepe, enologist at Lungarotti in Torgiano, Umbria is
not optimistic about the possibilities of recuperation
and re-equilibrating of the vegetal-productive period
for a year that has been decidedly precocious.
"We are ahead of schedule by at least 3 weeks,
and this could have been worse if rains and relative
cool temperatures in the second half of June had not
helped us,' he says.
"Precocious varieties like Chardonnay may see
the harvest beginning around 10-15 August, given that
we have had to change all of our company holiday plans,
he adds".
Lorenzo Landi,enologist of Saiagricola , (Colpetrone,
La Poverina, Fattoria del Cerro) consultant for many
Italian winemakers noted: "we are ahead of schedule,
on average of about two weeks, but it is necessary to
make a distinction. Some areas have not been affected
by the heat; I think Etna and Vulture, for example."
But for Carlo Ferrini, acclaimed Italian consultant
in Italy , it is too soon to tell exactly when the harvest
will be, though, "in Tuscany this year the harvest
will definitely be in August; and in respect to the
usual, operations will begin in the third week instead
of the fourth. I think winery workers should get ready
to revise their holiday plans.
One of Italy's most important winemakers, Riccardo
Cotarella emphasizes that it is important to be prudent
and remember that it is still difficult to tell. "The
quality is determined from today onward and there has
been certain recuperation, thanks to the good day-night
temperature variations in recent days. There are some
extra problems that could be calculated in the first
forecasts, like in some southern regions like Calabria,
Puglia and Sicily that were 'burned' by winds arriving
from Libya".
Luigi Molo, enology professor at the University of
Napoli Federico II, thinks there will be an average
anticipation of about 15 days in Campania , with a few
more difficulties for the coast compared to inland areas.
"We'll see however, what will happen in July and
August", adds the professor.
 'The
situation is very variable based on regional specific
characteristics in terms of geographic aspects and laws
and regulations,' says Lucio Matricardi, a winemaker
and consultant for many wine projects, including the
University of Milan and Chateau de Banyan of Bangalore,
whom I had met at the Kumarakom Lake Resort, near Kochi
last week for tasting of the just-launched Big Banyan
wines under his nose.
'Where irrigation is not allowed the hot weather would
create problems. So the Tuscan winemaker who can't irrigate
may say that his Sangiovese would be more concentrated
and the wine more expensive in 2007. Truth is Sangiovese
cannot stand this dry and hot clime. It would not reach
a good phenolic ripening level. There may be higher
alcohol level of 14-15°C this year and the colour
will also be more cooked', he says.
'Risk for white varietal is that skins will be softer.
Phenols risk being released during winemaking process,
making wine bitter, harsh and rustic. Whether the picking
is by hand or machine, pressing is softer and more gentle
compared to earlier years, temperature of grapes at
the time of harvest etc. are some of the factors which
will make a difference in quality' feels Lucio.
Whether the effect of weather is due to global warming
or cyclical rotation of weather patterns is hard to
tell but, 'Quality of this vintage will be variable,
but not due to global warming alone. Today we have viticulture
and winemaking tools to subdue the impact of clime but
it will be a big challenge', concludes this Master Winemaker
who did his Ph.D at the University of California, Davies.
In the Langhe region, a vintner is optimistic. "It
is true that we are ahead by about 10-15 days, in fact
the first Dolcetto grape berries are already starting
to mature. But there was a bit of cool weather which
helps with the perfect balance for vegetative processes".
The harvest of early ripening varieties like Chardonnay,
Pinot Grigio, and Primitivo then, is expected to be
in early August which will also see the grapes normally
harvested in September, like Sangiovese, Merlot, Barbera
and Trebbiano. The late ripening varieties like Aglianico,
Raboso, Cabernet and Nebbiolo which normally see through
September on the vine will be cultivated in September
only.
Basic Resource: http://www.winenews.it/
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