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Here are the results at a glance:
1. Best Importer: Brindco
Sales
2. Best Wine Producer: Champagne
Indage
3. Best Wine Retailer: Mumbai
– Patel Wines
Delhi-
DSIDC-Behind Savitri
4. Best Hotel Wine List- Mumbai-
Taj Hotels
Delhi-
Hotel Taj Palace
Standalone
- Mumbai- Indigo Restaurant
Delhi-
Diva Restaurant
5. Best Wine Club Delhi
Wine Club
6 Best Indian Sommelier: Magandeep
Singh
7. Best Wine Journalist: Subhash
Arora
8. Most Influential Wine Journalist: Vir
Sanghvi
9. Most Influential Wine Person: Ms.
Shirin Batliwala
Following article has been published in the June Issue
of Wine Business International, Germany; generally seen
in Europe as the most serious magazine about wine business.
The article is written by Joel Payne, Editor and Robert
Joseph, Editor-at-large and an award winning author
of over 25 wine books across the globe. Robert was in
India in December 2006 as a keynote speaker at a wine
conference organized by Montgomery International, London.
The Issue also carries out the results of a similar
survey done in Hong Kong. UK was the first country covered
earlier for the Who’s Who survey.
Who’s
Who in India
by Robert Joseph and Joel B. Payne
In retrospect, gentlemen like Michael Broadbent
and Hugh Johnson were considered queer birds in England
when they began writing about wine fifty years ago.
Today, India is witnessing the genesis of a new era
of wine consumption and a number of figures are in the
starting gates to make their mark on the first generation
of Indian wine drinkers.
India is an emerging wine market in which the culture
of wine barely existed until a few years ago. Of the
country’s 1.1 billion inhabitants, fewer than
a million people drink wine, and total consumption is
still less than 7 million litres. That is barely a teaspoon
full of wine per capita each year.
Of that volume, only 1.5 million litres are imported.
Heavy taxes on imported wine of up to 267% mean the
local wine industry has reaped the majority of the benefits
of the emerging wine culture. The profile of the consumer
has been changing, too. Once the reserve of the educated
elite, more and more middleclass people, especially
women, now take to wine. The rise in consumption can
be attributed to factors including the perceived health
benefits of wine; the fact that wine is lower in alcohol
than spirits; its image as a “lifestyle product”;
its compatibility with food; its role in entertaining
foreign guests; globalisation; and rising prosperity.
Over the past five years, since the government liberalized
the import of wine, consumption of imported wines has
grown at an average clip of 25% in spite of the high
duties. The growth rate, at 35-40%, has been even higher
for Indian wines. Most of the increased consumption
has been in Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore, in that order,
with Kolkata catching up fast.
Analysts expect the current rate of growth to sustain
itself, taking consumption to about 60 million litres
in 10 years. If taxes are lowered, a distinct possibility
after the intervention of WTO, that estimate may be
conservative. The information and statistics available
on wine and patterns of consumption in India are scant
and not always accurate.
No authentic data is available on how many Indians
drink alcohol, although most agree that less than half
do. Most, though, limit their consumption to beer and
whisky. Wine Business International sent out a questionnaire
to more than 500 wine industry professionals in India
and an email to 5,500 wines lovers registered at the
Indian Wine Academy, to learn more. Based on the response
received, we compiled the following Who’s Who
in the Indian wine industry. Further categories will
be added in future and posted on our website.
1. Best Importer
Until recently there were fewer than 30 importers in
India, with the top three controlling more than half
the market. Although the number has risen to 50 during
the past year, it could reach 100 within a year.
There was no surprise in this category. Based on its
size, portfolio and market penetration, Brindco, in
Delhi, was voted far ahead of Sonarys, in Mumbai, as
India’s best importer. “Best collection
of wines” and a portfolio “that will make
people jealous” were some of the responses.
Sonarys, which edged out Global Free Tax Traders for
second place, was commended for its better knowledge
of wines by many respondents. “They understand
wine and have a good selection” was a remark echoed
by the majority,
whereas Global “is slowly arriving there”.
Mohan Exports, as “the oldest importer”,
also garnered some votes.
2. Best Wine Producer
Amid the many nominees, five or six producers stood
out. Surprisingly, Champagne Indage came out ahead due
to its larger sales and market share, as well as its
status as “a pioneer of wine production in India”.
According to a knowledgeable respondent who tracks Champagne
Indage’s performance, “it has the highest
number of brands and varietals to offer. It targets
each and every market segment from the low- to the high-profile
consumers. It has the highest market share with 36 International
Awards for its wines.”
Because of its commitment to quality and diversity,
Sula Vineyards was a close second. While Sula has “few
brands to appreciate”, it has “a good brand
perception and market penetration”.
Though Grover Vineyard was predictably in third place,
Vintage Wines got a special mention because of its quality.
Surprisingly, there were supporters for Seagram’s
Nine Hills, which crushed its first vintage last year.
3. Best Wine Retailer
Wine retail has been a very low-key affair in India
due to the stringent and independent sales policies
in various states. Poor storage and heavy duties have
kept the sale of imported wines insignificant. Sales
can only be though government-licensed channels. Until
recently, supermarkets were not allowed to sell wine,
a policy that is being liberalised gradually in many
states.
Surprisingly, in Mumbai Patel Wines edged out Shah
Wines, despite the latter’s exhaustive range,
free home delivery policy and better-than-average storage
conditions. No strong reasons emerged for Patel Wines’
lead. Modern Wines is also a name to watch. Air-conditioning
was installed last year, it has increased its range
of labels, and it could be a strong challenger in this
category next year.
In Delhi, the retail situation has been even less enviable
than in Mumbai, both in terms of storage and portfolio
spread. Until a couple of years ago, retail sales of
imported wines were not allowed. Only last year, retailers
started paying attention to wine sales in the liquor
retail shops. Although prices are generally fixed by
excise laws, government-owned shops compete with private
vendors.
DSIDC, the Delhi-government-owned retail shop in Greater
Kailash II, added a separate air-conditioned wine section
last year. With an excellent display, “a variety
in brands”, “nice placements” and
the available choice, it won hands down. A couple of
its stores in other locations in Delhi also impressed
some respondents. A few positive articles on the internet
site delWine regarding proper storage and portfolio
perhaps induced consumers take note of this store.
There was a surprising absence of mentions of retail
stores in cities like Bangalore and Chandigarh, perhaps
because choice is rather limited. Next year will be
an exciting one for this category. With supermarkets
being allowed to sell wine, these air-conditioned outlets
with massive buying power will become important retailers
and the trade may see improvements in some stores and
the closure of others.
4. Best Hotel Wine Lists
We divided the winners in two categories, Delhi and
Mumbai, as most responses mentioned only these two.
Wine lists were chosen as the criterion, though wine
prices were not necessarily a factor in respondents’
choices.
Although the Hotel Taj Palace, with its list of 498
labels, came out on top in Delhi, ITC Maurya Sheraton,
The Oberoi and The Imperial were also commended.
Diva Restaurant, run by wine connoisseur and chef-owner
Ritu Dalmia, was the top choice of stand-alone restaurants,
not only for its elaborate list, but also its affordable
prices, storage, service and wine knowledge.
Although some respondents mentioned ITC Grand Maratha,
Taj Hotels took the credit in Mumbai. Surprising omissions
from our analysts’ point of view included the
Oberoi, Leela and Grand Hyatt hotels, which have excellent
wine lists.
The stand-alone category in Mumbai was won hands down
by Indigo Restaurant, which not only has a great wine
list but good service, Mediterranean cuisine and wine-knowledge.
The prices, though, are aimed at upper-end customers
and, as one professional wrote, “could be more
affordable”.
5. Best Wine Club
Wine Club culture has been slowly catching on in India,
with cities beyond the big three also capturing some
of the action.
The Delhi Wine Club was an almost unanimous top choice.
This could be due to its educational website, which
displays the club’s activities in detail and keeps
the visitors informed about the wine scene in India
with “news, which is up-to-date and important
for wine enthusiasts”.
The Bangalore Wine Club, perhaps the first of its kind
in India, was voted second and the Wine Society in Delhi
was also mentioned.
6. Best Indian Sommelier
There are not many sommeliers in India. Although Daniela
Reynaud from France “has 40 years of experience
in the Indian market” and is “an old hat
in India as a wine educator with Sopexa”, we chose
to disqualify foreigners.
Rajesh Batla, the Assistant Food & Beverage manager
of the Taj Palace Hotel, who has completed three parts
of the WSET and is enrolling in the MW programme, is
an ace, but is not yet well known.
Magandeep Singh in Delhi thus got the top votes. Singh
trained in France and, on his return to India, after
working briefly with Sonarys as a trainer and in marketing
support, has been freelancing.
7. Best Wine Journalist
Due to limited interest in wine, wine journalism is
relatively new in India. Though quite a few such journalists
are now emerging, their knowledge of wines is often
limited. Asit Chandmal, who is “spectacular with
words and demystification”, represents the old
guard.
Alok Chandra also came out ahead of other figures such
as Reshmi Dasgupta, Vikram Doctor, Nandini Sengupta
and Trilok Desai. There were also many votes for Vir
Sanghvi, editor of the daily Hindustan Times, who is
a prolific food writer and added wine to his repertoire
over the past couple of years. Sourish Bhattacharyya
was also a favourite with many readers.
Subhash Arora, editor of delWine, a regular contributor
to www.indianwineacademy.com and our correspondent in
India came out on top. “He writes with a passion
and expresses his viewpoints fearlessly and without
trying to be popular.”
8. Most Influential Wine Journalist
Vir Sanghvi, who has been a food writer and critic
for many years, started writing about wines recently.
He also anchors a television show and appears in several
others, which gives him unparalleled exposure. “He
is a common man’s journalist, who bridges the
divide between food and wine,” said one voter.
Asit Chandmal was also mentioned “as the first
Indian wine writer with features that were simply the
best”. Still, Sourish Bhattacharyya, whose “insight
into the Indian market makes everyone take note”,
came out just ahead of Asit Chandmal.
9. Most Influential Wine Person
The influence of individuals in a nascent wine industry
can be due to various factors, not least of which is
purchasing power. Ms Shirin Batliwala, VP of the Taj
group of hotels, who looks after the central purchasing
of the group, was the overall top choice. Wine producers
can also wield much influence.
While Mr. Shamrao Chougule, the patriarch of the Champagne
Indage Group, a pioneer in the Indian wine Industry,
was voted the most influential person in this context,
Rajeev Samant, of Sula, was the darling of some voters.
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