|  Bill Harlan, owner of Harlan Estate winery in Napa Valley had a vision and ambition to produce First Growth equivalents of Bordeaux in California . His cult wines may not boast of the Grand Cru label, but they command higher prices. He shared his philosophy, passion and vision with Subhash Arora during an interview at the recently held International Wine & Heart Health Summit at Napa .
The Bill Harlan Estate
Harlan Estate, owned by William 'Bill' Harlan, set in the western hills of Oakville , is known for limited availability, "cult" wines from estate fruit. The estate vineyards are planted to the classic varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
'We own 240 acres (96 hectares) of prime land that yield 2,000 cases per year of Harlan Estate from the winery.'
Collectors from California to Hong Kong clamour for the Cabernet blend. A bottle of Harlan Estate sells for $250 or more, in fine-wine shops in 25 countries. It sells for at least twice that much in the secondary auction market. Collectors lucky enough to be on the vintner's mailing list can buy new releases for $175. Some vintages sell for even around a $1000 a bottle- more than any first growths or even the Pétrus.
The most important aspect of winemaking is the vineyard location
'Harlan Estate is the result of a twenty year search for prime hillside vineyards, culminated by the patchwork acquisition of 230 acres above the fabled Rutherford-Oakville beachlands. The vineyards, planted in the mid-eighties are cut to contour, planted with thoughtfully selected clones of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.'
On using the French model of viticulture: .
'When I was in Bordeaux and Burgundy in the eighties, I became interested in vineyard property. When I asked a few top viticulturalists what made the First Growth land so special, I was told that the best vineyards tended to face east and sat on hillsides.
Dividing the hillside into sections, the bottom section, the flattest spot, was worth say 'x' dollars. Just above, the next section was worth '2x'. The center cut of the hillside, where the First Growths are mainly located, cost '8x'. The top levels were again '2x' and 'x'
When I returned to California , I asked top California wine people which vineyards would be considered the Napa equivalent to Bordeaux First Growths. The vineyard most frequently cited was Heitz's eastern facing Martha's Vineyard .
I spent the next 10 years buying a patchwork of '8x' vineyard land on the Oakville Grade, just above Martha's Vineyard and made my Estate here.
.and low yields
The farming and cultural practices used in his Estate are uncompromising, with low vigour and exceedingly low yields.
For instance, 'the 1991 Harlan Estate was produced from grapes harvested at 1.5 tons per acre - roughly half the yield in most Bordeaux "First Growth" vineyards.'
Harlan Estate aspires for perfection
'When thinking of Harlan Estate, it's hard not to think about perfection. In the span of 11 years, we have produced 4 perfect vintages rated 100 points.' The blockbuster wines have powerful punch, long finish, outstanding balance and complexity.
'The vineyards, planted in the mid-eighties are cut to contour, planted with carefully selected clones of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Michel Rolland, the star consultant
 Bill and his winemaker Bob Levy work with Michel Rolland ( who also works with Grover Vineyards ) have achieved spectacular results in an amazingly short time at this estate in the western hills overlooking the Oakville corridor. 'Michel has told me he also works with Grover Vineyards, somewhere in India . He seems to be satisfied with the progress they have made.'
Harlan the entrepreneur
Bill Harlan is an entrepreneur with a strong background in real estate and hotel development. By his late 40s, he had a rich life. Co-founder of a prominent California real-estate firm, he was a wealthy man whose wife had just given birth to their second child. 'But I realized I had to do something important- something that I could leave behind, which was more than just material comforts. I had made enough money in the real estate to worry about finances.
Building the Harlan dynasty
Bill wanted something that could carry on his name till perpetuity. He decided to create a family dynasty. 'I decided to move with my wife and children to Napa Valley vineyard. Working together, I wanted to build the winery into a legacy that each Harlan generation would carry on further through excellent quality wines.'
Concept of project BOND for grape growing
Bill talked about this new, challenging project passionately. Unlike the late 1980s, vineyard inflation made it economically impossible to acquire Harlan Estate quality vineyard land. So 'we began to identify vineyards that we believed would one day be recognized as the Grand Crus of Napa Valley. Three vineyards were immediately identified as '8x' by Levy while we realised that a few others would have similar potential.
''I went to each vineyard owner in 1997. This was the time when high quality grapes were in extremely high demand. In order to encourage each grower to not only sell their grapes to BOND, but to farm the land to my winemaker Levy's specifications, we offered them a unique proposal. We offered to compensate them according to the sales price of BOND bottles. We would also share the brand equity'.
It was important that both the parties were equally involved. 'It was a lengthy and time consuming process in identifying such people and working with them, explaining and convincing them of our philosophy. So it had to be a long-term project and I must say it has worked well.'
'As quantities we produced were very small, most bottles of such products found their way to top restaurant wine lists across the country.'
Profitability at such high prices
 Contrary to my own beliefs, the profitability is around the corner only now.
"It took 12 years before we saw a nickel of revenue, 'said Bill. "Forget about profit. We're still waiting for them."
Says Bill Cranston, the Las Vegas based Vice President of Group Z International who has wine marketing experience of marketing wines with big companies,' I have known Bill for years and have been watching his style of functioning. He has so much of money that he does not need to be in the wine business. It is his passion and ambition to make a wine that is no. 1, in the Parker List or otherwise-no expense spared. I don't think he will ever make any money or needs to.' Many people voiced a similar opinion.
Vineyard Club near Meadowood
While delivering the keynote address about the role of vineyards for good wine, that prompted me to interview him, Bill Harlan had mentioned about the Golf Club-like concept of wine club near his property at Meadowood Resorts-one of the most premium spa and resorts in the Napa area that is running very successfully.
'This is like a Golf Club without golf. About 300 invited members have their 'own' vines, which they can visit and talk to. There is a two-floor club house, with two dining rooms - one with giant professional open kitchen - where members can entertain.
There is an initiation fee of about $150,000 of of which is refundable whenever you want to quit. An average $10,000 a year is charged additionally. All members get bottles of 'their' wine, produced by the Harlan Estate winemaker with their own label, and every two weeks there is a networking and educational dinner. You can store any of your wines in the cellar. Of course you get special discounts on the Meadowood Villas tariffs.'
Harlan Estate In India
When I asked Bill whether he knew his Harlan Estate was also being sold in India, he expressed surprised.' Maybe I am not aware of it or the quantity is too samll'. In my email from San Francisco, Aman Dhall of brindco did confirm that brindco was the direct importer of Harlan Estate, though under heavy allocation. He even promised to invite me for the first tasting.
I am awaiting eagerly for the invite.
Subhash Arora
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The California Cults
The California cult wine phenomenon to which Harlan Estates owes its popularity, sprang from the booming economy and excesses of the internet bubble in the nineties. The members of this highly select group include: Araujo Estate Eisele vineyard, Bryant Family Vineyard, Colgin, Dalla Valle Maya, Harlan Estate, Grace Family Vineyard, Screaming Eagle, and Shafer Hillside Select.
While Araujo Estate (2002),Dalla Valle (1992), Bryant Family (1999), Screaming Eagle(1997), Shafer (2002) managed one perfect Robert Parker 100, Harlan has managed four (1994,1997,2001,2002). Vintage 2002 was the last released vintage; in April 2006.
Harlan Estate was the Wine Enthusiast AMERICAN WINERY OF THE YEAR 2006.
Harlan Estate has become the greatest Cabernet house in California for many wine connoisseurs. The winery has set the highest standards in Napa Valley, and serves as an
iconic model for all quality wine producers. |
