|  The history of wine at state dinners hosted by the Presidents of the USA goes back to the founding fathers of the United States. George Washington loved wine, and was reportedly especially fond of Madeira. However, he didn't live in the White House, which was only completed in time for the last part of John Adams's term. Adams had no time for niceties of life.
The most noted wine enthusiast to occupy the White House was Thomas Jefferson. He created a cellar costing US $ 11000 (US $175,000 in today's terms) for the wines he imported from France and Italy, and served the finest wines and foods to his guests. He even tried unsuccessfully to grow wine grapes near his home at Monticello in Virginia. But it has only been in the last few decades that others have succeeded in making palatable wines in Virginia.
Ever since Jefferson's time, wine service in The White House has echoed the country's attitude toward the beverage. Records surviving from 1845 document an extravagant meal, a formal four-hour affair, that featured a flight of six wines - including pink Champagne, ruby Port and Sauternes - served by the expansive Sarah Polk, wife of President James K. Polk.
Elaborate meals featuring wines continued to be part of formal entertaining in the White House until the Woman's Christian Temperance Union protested vociferously in the mid-19th century. When Rutherford Hayes became president in 1877, his wife, Lucy banned wine and spirits from the White House.
That practice continued for decades, though apparently liquor was served privately even during Prohibition. To most Americans during this period, however, "wine was for bums and foreigners," says the wine merchant of California . No ban existed during Prohibition; according to anecdotal records of liquor being served by Herbert Hoover during his presidency (1929-1933).
Gradually the ban was eased, but the service of wine didn't become visible until the 1960s as President John Kennedy and his wife, Jacqueline, wholeheartedly embraced French cuisine and wine. Apparently, Kennedies preferred Bordeaux wines.
Kennedy's successor, Lyndon Johnson, preferred Bourbon to wine, but decreed that only American wines would be served in the White House, a policy that continues even today.
Richard Nixon privately preferred French wines, but made a point of serving wines from his home state of California . His toasting of the détente with China in 1972 with Schramsberg sparkling wine from Napa , in fact, put the then-little-known winery on the wine map. In Private, he used to quaff his favourite Champagnes , though.
State loyalty extended even to Gerald Ford, who served Michigan wines which didn't make a big splash.
By the late 1970s, Jimmy Carter had banned hard liquor but he and his wife Rosalyn allowed wine to be served to the state dignitaries.
Ronald Reagan was such a proponent of California wines that he had to be reminded at times that he was president of the United States , not of California . During his 8-year tenure in the 80's, wines were served liberally.
Formal dinners at the White House featured French cuisine until Bill and Hillary Clinton hired Walter Scheib as White House executive chef. Scheib introduced American cuisine to the White House. It was also at this time that Scheib's culinary counterpart, Daniel Shanks, was brought in to orchestrate the wine selections among other duties.
'Our first requirement is that the wines are of very high quality and match the food,' says Shanks, the assistant usher responsible for wine selection at the White House.
President George W. Bush doesn't drink alcoholic beverages. But his wife, Laura appreciates wine. "She has a nice palate and appreciates well-balanced wines," says Shanks, but adds she doesn't get involved in specifying wines or the regions to feature.
She is reportedly fond of Becker Vineyards' wines from the Hill Country around Austin , Texas . Becker's Reserve Chardonnay and Cabernet was served to Russian President Vladimir Putin at a dinner at the Bushes' ranch in Crawford , Texas .
The White House pays for all the wine. "We don't solicit donations though we look for good value in the wines we buy," says Shanks. "We look for good wines with the right flavor profile at reasonable prices.
The White House doesn't maintain a deep cellar of old vintages, either. "We try to serve wines from new viticultural areas, new wineries and new varieties," says Shanks. "We like to focus on new directions.
Although Shanks admits that having a Texan in the White House might be more favourable to Texas , he insists no regions are given preference "We serve wines from 12 to 16 states." He particularly notes the upcoming wines of Virginia and Long Island, and those of the revitalized Finger Lakes appellation of New York .
Sparkling wine is a must for diplomatic affairs, particularly for toasts. Schramsberg wines seem almost ubiquitous at these events, particularly its Cr é mant, a slightly sweet wine appreciated even by people who don't normally drink wine. Often served with dessert courses, it's an ideal wine for toasts.
Iron Horse, another California sparkling bubbly producer, even created a special wine especially for toasts. She says the Russian Cuvée, which is slightly sweeter than most sparklers, received is name both from the winery's location in the Russian River Valley and because it was poured at the first summit meetings between Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev in Geneva and Washington in 1985.
Wine has come a long way and is now considered a vital part of official functions at the White House. This is a far cry from the time of prohibition had taken hold or French wines reigned. The growing importance of wine in American culture has been duly and properly reflected in the importance of the choice of wine for presidential dinners.
Subhash Arora
San Francisco
February 19, 2007 |
